Page 82 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna

80  VIENNA AREA B Y AREA STEPHANSDOM QU AR TER  81

a famous portrait of him by a e Heiligen­ and stables, the only surviving
Bohemian master dating from kreuzerhof example in Vienna. Two other
the 1360s (see p72). Added to houses of Renaissance origin
the museum since renovation Schönlaterngasse 5. Map 2 E5 & 6 E3. are located at Nos. 12 and 14.
Tel 5125896. % Schwedenplatz.
are a number of modernist and Open 6am–9pm Mon–Sat. 7
contemporary paintings and Bernhardskapelle: Open on request
sculptures. The museum now t Haas­Haus
includes an extensive collection In the Middle Ages, rural
of modern pieces from Chagall, monasteries expanded and Stephansplatz 12. Map 2 E5 & 6 D3.
Tel 5356083. % Stephansplatz.
Klimt and contemporary established buildings in the Open 8am–2am daily. 7
Austrian artists. Creative displays cities. Secularization in the
juxtapose the old with the new, 1780s diminished such holdings, Designing a modern building
the purpose being to show a but this one, belonging to the directly opposite the
continuity in underlying reli- abbey of Heiligenkreuz (see Stephansdom was a difficult Detail from Andrea Pozzo’s altar (1707) in
gious emotions across the ages, p178), survived. task, and the city entrusted it the Franziskanerkirche
expressed in changing styles The buildings around the to one of Austria’s leading
and in materials as varied as courtyard housing the city’s architects, Hans Hollein. The was designed by the Neo-
paint, glass and metal. Applied Arts College present result is the 1990 Haas-Haus, Classicist Johann Martin Fischer
a serene 18th-century face. On a shining structure of glass in 1798. The interior is in full-
the south side of the courtyard and blue-green marble that blown Baroque style and
w Sonnenfelsgasse is the Bernhardskapelle. Dating curves elegantly into the includes a finely modelled
from 1662, but altered in the Graben. The building has a pulpit dating from 1726 and
Map 2 E5 & 6 E3. % Stephansplatz, 1730s, the chapel is a Baroque very pleasing asymmetrical richly carved pews. A dramatic
Schwedenplatz.
gem. Across from the chapel a appearance, with decorative high altar by Andrea Pozzo rises
Fine houses line this pleasant patch of wall from Babenberg elements such as lopsided to the full height of the church.
street. Though by no means times (see pp24–5) has been cubes of marble attached Only the front part of the
uniform in style, most of the exposed: a reminder that, as to the façade, a protruding structure is three-dimensional –
dwellings on the north side of so often in Vienna, the building structure high up resembling the rest is trompe l’oeil. Look out
the street are solid merchant is much older in origin than it a diving board and a Japanese for a 1725 Crucifixion by Carlo
and patrician houses dating at first appears. bridge inside. The atrium Carlone among the paintings
from the late 16th century. within is surrounded by cafés, in the side altars.
No. 19, which was built in 1628 shops, a restaurant, DO & CO You usually have to ask a
and renovated in 1721, was (see p197) and offices. passing monk for permission
once part of the Old University to see the church organ. It is
(see p79). No. 11 has an y Franziskaner­ worth being persistent, as
The Baroque Bernhardskapelle (left), seen from Schönlaterngasse impressive courtyard. Many of this is the oldest organ in
the balconies overlooking the kirche Vienna (1642), designed
0 Schönlaterngasse reassembled in the basement. courtyard have been glassed in Franziskanerplatz 4. Map 4 E1 & 6 D4. by Johann Wöckerl. It is
This complex also contains an to their full height so as to beautifully painted, focusing
Map 2 E5 & 6 E3. % Stephansplatz, Tel 662 84 36 29. % Stephansplatz.
Schwedenplatz. @ 1A, 2A, 3A. art gallery and a hall where provide extra living space. No. 3 @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Open 6:30am–noon on religious themes.
Alte Schmiede: Tel 5128329. poetry readings and music has the most elaborate façade, Fresco at No. 12 Bäckerstrasse & 2–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 7am–5:30pm
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. workshops are held. and contains a Stadtheuriger Sun. 7
called the Zwölf Apostelkeller. r Bäckerstrasse
This attractive curving lane q Cathedral This is an urban equivalent of Map 2 E5 & 6 D3. % Stephansplatz. In the 14th century, the
derives its name (Pretty Lantern the Heuriger, the wine growers’ @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Franciscans took over this
Lane) from the handsome Museum inns found in the villages church, originally built by
wrought-iron lantern clamped to Stephansplatz 6. Map 2 E5 & 6 D3. outside Vienna (see Nowadays people visit this wealthy citizens as a “house
No. 6. The lantern is a copy of the Tel 515 52 33 00. % Stephansplatz. pp200–201). street, which used to house the of the soul” for prostitutes
1610 original, now in the Wien @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Open 10am–6pm The street was city’s bakers in medieval times, wishing to reform. The
Museum Karlsplatz (see p150). At Wed–Sun (to 8pm Thu). named after a soldier to sample its nightlife rather present church was
No. 4, a solid early 17th-century ∑ dommuseum.at & 7 called Joseph von than its bread. The architecture built in 1601–11.
house stands in the curve of the Sonnenfels. He here is also of considerable The façade is
street. No. 7, the Basiliskenhaus, The Cathedral Museum, became Maria interest: No. 2 sits beneath a in South German
which is of medieval origin, the Dom und Diözesan- Theresa’s legal 17th-century tower and has Renaissance style,
displays on its façade an artist’s museum in German, adviser and under a pretty courtyard. Opposite, and is topped by
impression of a basilisk, dating reopened in 2017 after four his guidance at No. 1, is the site of the Alte an elaborate
from 1740. A serpent is reputed years of renovation. All the she reformed the Regensburgerhof, the outpost scrolled gable
to have been discovered in 1212 old treasures have been penal code and of Bavarian merchants who with obelisks.
in a well by the house. returned, including 16th- abolished torture. were given incentives to work The Moses
The composer Robert and 17th-century carvings in Vienna in the 15th century. Fountain in front
Schumann lived at No. 7a from and personal gifts from No. 8 is the former palace of of the church
1838 to 1839. No. 9 is the Alte Duke Rudolf IV to the Gothic Madonna and Count Seilern, dating from 1722,
Schmiede – the smithy from cathedral. His shroud is Child (1325) in the and No. 7 is famous for its Gleaming façade of
which it takes its name has been housed here, along with Cathedral Museum arcaded Renaissance courtyard Haas-Haus (1990)

080-081_EW_Vienna.indd 80 03/10/17 11:00 am 080-081_EW_Vienna.indd 81 03/10/17 11:00 am