Page 84 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
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82      VIENNA  AREA  B Y  AREA                                                                       STEPHANSDOM  QU AR TER      83

                           o Annakirche        about 1505 – the original is                       Griechenbeisl (see p210) is its
                                               in the Cathedral Museum                            best-known landmark. On
                           Annagasse 3b. Map 4 E1 & 6 D4.
                           Tel 5124797. % Stephansplatz.    (see p80). St Anne is portrayed       its façade is a woodcarving of
                           @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Open 7am–7pm daily.  as a powerfully maternal figure     a bagpiper known as Der liebe
                                               and shown with her daughter,                       Augustin (Dear Augustin).
                           There has been a chapel in   the Virgin Mary, who in turn              Rumour has it that during the
                           Annagasse since 1320, but    has the baby Jesus on her                 1679 plague, this bagpiper
                           the present Annakirche was   knee. The carving is attributed           slumped drunk into the gutter
                           built between 1629 and 1634,   to the sculptor Veit Stoss.             one night and, taken for dead,
       Statuary in the hall of the Winter Palace    and later renovated by the                    was put in the plague pit. He
       of Prince Eugene    Jesuits during the early 18th                                          woke, attracted attention by
                           century. Devotion to St Anne   p Haus der Musik                        playing his pipes and was
       u Winter Palace of   has deep roots in Vienna and   Seilerstätte 30. Map 4 E1 & 6 D5.      rescued. Miraculously, he
                           this intimate church is often
                                                                                                  did not catch the plague.
       Prince Eugene       full of quiet worshippers.  Tel 513 48 50. % Stephansplatz,              Next to the Griechenbeisl
                                               Stubenring. @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Open
                             The finest exterior feature                                          is the beautiful Neo-Byzantine
       Himmelpfortgasse 4–8. Map 4 E1 & 6      10am–10pm daily. & 8 on request.
       D4. Tel 795 57 134. % Stephansplatz.    of the church is the moulded   - = ∑ hdm.at        Griechische Kirche (Greek
       @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Vestibule: Open 10am–   copper cupola over the tower.                        Church of the Holy Trinity).    Ivy-clad façade of Ruprechtskirche
       6pm daily. ∑ winterpalais.at  The ceiling frescoes, painted    The House of Music is a sound   Detail on the façade of the Griech ische   The versatile architect Theophil
                           by Daniel Gran, who was    museum that delights adults   Kirche on Griechengasse  Hansen (see p34) created its rich,   g Ruprechtskirche
       The Winter Palace (Winterpalais)   a leading painter of the   and children alike. Its high-tech   gilt structure in the 1850s. A   Ruprechtsplatz. Map 2 E5 & 6 D2.
       was commissioned in 1694    Austrian Baroque period,    interactive displays include   a Austrian Museum  passage links the Griechenbeisl   Tel 5356003. % Schwedenplatz.
       by Prince Eugene of Savoy    are now fading but his richly   “experience zones” such as the   of Applied Arts   to Griechengasse.  Open 10am–noon Mon–Fri, 3–5pm
       (see p29), a brilliant military   coloured painting glorifying    Instrumentarium, with its giant              Mon, Wed, Fri; for Mass 5pm Sat (6pm
       commander. The work was   St Anne on the high altar is    instruments, and the Polypho-  See pp84–5.           Jul & Aug). 7 Donation expected.
       entrusted to Johann Bernhard   still striking. The first chapel    nium, which is a collection of   f Griechengasse   ∑ ruprechtskirche.at
       Fischer von Erlach (see p149)    on the left houses a copy    different sounds. The museum’s   s Postsparkasse   Map 2 E5 & 6 E2. % Schwedenplatz.
       and later by Johann Lukas von   of a carving of St Anne from   staircase acts as a piano.  Georg-Coch-Platz 2. Map 2 F5 & 6 F3.   Griechenkirche St Georg: Tel 5357882.   St Ruprecht (see p24) was the
       Hildebrandt (see p154) in 1702.                                        Tel 059905. % Schwedenplatz.    Open by appt, 9am–4pm Mon–Fri,   patron saint of Vienna’s salt
       The result is an imposing town                                         @ 3A. v 1, 2. Open 10am–5pm   10am–1pm for Mass only Sat & Sun.  merchants and the church that
       mansion, one of the most                                               Mon–Fri. ∑ ottowagner.com               takes his name overlooks the
       mag nifi cent Baroque edifices in                                                          The name of this street, leading   merchants’ landing stage on the
       Vienna. Maria Theresa bought it                                        This building, the Imperial-   up from Rotenturmstrasse,   Danube canal. There is a statue
       for the state in 1752 and it was                                       Royal Post Office Savings Bank,    refers to the Greek merchants   of the saint holding a tub of salt
       home to the Ministry of Finance                                        is a wonderful example of   who settled here in the 18th   at the foot of the Romanesque
       from 1848 until 2006. It is now                                        Secession architecture (see   century. The house on the right   tower. As salt was a valuable
       an exhibition venue for the                                            pp56–9). Designed between   dates from 1611 but has since   commodity in the Middle Ages,
       Belvedere (see pp154–9), devoted                                       1904 and 1906 by Otto Wagner,   been altered. Opposite is the   some historians suggests that
       to its Baroque collection.                                             it still looks unashamedly   Greek Orthodox Griechenkirche    the church dates back to the
                                                                              modern. It features the   St Georg, not to be confused   11th century, making it the
                                                                              architect’s characteristic   with the Griechische Kirche    oldest church in Vienna. The
       i Annagasse                                                            overhanging eaves, spindly   in Fleischmarkt. This one was    interior is less interesting, having
                                                                              aluminium columns supporting   built in 1803 but the gable    been restored at various times,
       Map 4 E1 & 6 D4. % Stephansplatz.
       @ 1A, 2A, 3A. Zum Blauen Karpfen:                                      a canopy, heroic sculptures of   was added later, in 1898. No. 7    but the chancel has two panes
       Closed to the public.                                                  angels and ornament-like   is a 17th-century house. whose   of Romanesque stained glass.
                                                                              nailheads protruding from the   façade was rebuilt in the late   The choir is 13th-century, the
       Now splendidly Baroque,                                                surface of the building.  18th century.  vaulted south aisle 15th-century.
       Annagasse dates from medieval                                            Wagner was a pioneer in
       times. It is pedestrianized and                                        incorporating many functional
       a pleasant place for browsing                                          elements into his decorative
       in the various bookshops.                                              schemes. Inside, the banking
         Notable buildings include                                            hall is circled by tubular heating
       the luxurious Mailberger Hof                                           ducts and the metal columns
       and the stucco-decorated                                               are clad in aluminium.
       Römischer Kaiser hotels (see
       p198). No. 14’s lintel has a
       Baroque carving of cherubs                                             d Fleischmarkt
       making merry, while above                                              Map 2 E5 & 6 D2–E3. %
       this is a relief of the blue                                           Schwedenplatz. Griechische Kirche:
       carp that gives the house,                                             Tel 5333889. Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri.
       once a pub, its name: Zum
       Blauen Karpfen. No. 2 is the                                           Fleischmarkt, the former meat
       17th-century Esterházy                                                 market, dates from 1220. The
       Palace, which is now a casino.   Moulded copper cupola over the tower of the Annakirche  small cosy inn called the   Carving of the bagpiper on the façade of the Griechenbeisl, Fleischmarkt



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