Page 98 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Vienna
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96      VIENNA  AREA  B Y  AREA                                                                            HOFBURG  QU AR TER      97


                                               a tablet from 1571 warns visitors   y Neue Burg                        o Hofjagd und
                                               not to carry weapons or to     Heldenplatz. Map 4 D1 & 5 B4.           Rüstkammer
                                               fight here. The injunction was   Tel 52524484. % Volkstheater,         As Neue Burg.  Tel 525244502.
                                               famously ignored when the      Herrengasse. v D, 1, 2, 71.             ∑ khm.at
                                               1848 Revolution (see p33) was   Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.
                                               ignited on this very spot.     & ∑ hofburg-wien.at                     The Hofburg’s weapons
                                                 The long, low Neo-Classical                                          collection is impressive both for
                                               façade of No. 7 received its   The Neue Burg, a massive curved         its size and for the workmanship
                                               present appearance from        building situated on Heldenplatz,       of its finest items: ivory and
                                               Ludwig Pichl and Giacomo       was added to the Hofburg                filigree inlay on weapons,
                                               Quarenghi in 1811. At No. 5    Complex between 1881 and                medieval ceremonial saddles
                                               Anton Ospel (1677–1756)        1913. It embodies the last gasp         and jewelled Turkish and Syrian
                                               gave the Wilczek Palace        of the Habsburg Empire as it            maces. Of note are the
      The pedestrianized Kohlmarkt, home to many exclusive shops and beautiful shopfronts  (built before 1737) an unusual   strained under aspirations of   16th­century ceremonial suits
                                               façade, with angled pilasters   in dependence from its domains,        worn by the Habsburgs for
       0 Kohlmarkt         its name. This narrow lane   lending the central bays an   when the personal prestige of   tournaments and military
                           follows the line of a wall that   illusion of perspective.  Emperor Franz Joseph was all that   parades, and the decorative
       Map 2 D5 & 5 C3. % Herrengasse.
       @ 1A, 2A.           used to stand here in Roman                        seemed able to keep it intact.          fighting and hunting weapons.
                           times. Today Naglergasse is   r Mollard-Clary      It was not the perfect moment             The core of the collection is
       Leading directly up to the   lined with a succession of                to embark on an extension to            the personal armouries of the
       Imperial Palace, the Kohlmarkt    gorgeous Baroque houses. The   Palace   the Hofburg, but the work was        Habsburg emperors and, not
       is pedestrianized and lined with   delightful Renaissance bay   Herrengasse 9. Map 2 D5 & 5 B3.    undertaken never  theless, and the   surprisingly, houses one of the
       some of Vienna’s most exclusive   window of No. 19 is ornamented   Tel 53410710. % Herrengasse.    Neue Burg was built to designs   finest collections in Europe.
       shops and remarkable shopfronts.  with carved cherubs. No. 13   @ 1A, 2A. Globe Museum:    by the Ringstrasse architects Karl
       No. 9, the Jugendstil Artaria Haus  dates from the 16th century    Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm   von Hasenauer (1833–94) and   p Weltmuseum
       (1901), was the work of Max   but has been considerably   Thu). ∑ onb.ac.at  Gottfried Semper (1803–79). Five
       Fabiani (1865–1962), a protégé   altered since. No. 21 (1720) is       years after its completion, the         Wien
       of Otto Wagner (see p59). No.16,   now an inn with a particularly   This magnificent Baroque   Habsburg Empire ended.  Suit of armour at Hofjagd und Rüstkammer  As Neue Burg. Tel 534305052. Open
       the bookshop and publisher   snug and cosy interior.  palace, dating from 1686, owes     In 1938, Adolf Hitler stood on   10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri). &
       Manz, boasts a charac teristic          its name to two aristocratic   the terraced central bay to   i Sammlung Alter   7 - ∑ weltmuseumwien.at
       portal from 1912 by Adolf Loos          tenants, Mollard and Clary. It    proclaim the Anschluss – the
       (see p94). The striking abstract   e Herrengasse   is famous for the reforming   union of Austria and Germany    Musikinstrumente   Collecting for the Weltmuseum
       shopfront of jewellers Schullin   Map 2 D5 & 5 B2. % Herrengasse.    cultural soirées presided over   – to tens of thousands of   As Neue Burg. Tel 525244602.   began in 1806, and young
       (1982) was designed by the   @ 1A, 2A.  there by Emperor Joseph II.    Viennese (see p38).  ∑ khm.at           archdukes on their travels across
       architect Hans Hollein (see p93).       Today it is home to the world’s     The Neue Burg is home to the       the globe were avid contri bu­
                           Flanking the Hofburg, this    only museum devoted solely    reading room of the national   Pianos that belonged to   tors. The “Museum of Man”, as
                           street was the prime location    to globes and is part of the   library, as well as a number of   Beethoven, Schubert and   Austria’s foremost ethnological
       q Demel Konditorei  for the palaces of the Habsburg   Austrian National Library. A   museums (see following entries)   Haydn, among countless other   institution is sometimes called,
                           nobility. In 1843 a visiting writer,   special chamber houses the   that are all under the direction   items, are housed in the musical   has as its centrepiece the Italian
       Kohlmarkt 14. Map 2 D5 & 5 C3.
       Tel 53517170. % Stephansplatz.    J G Kohl, wrote of the street’s   huge globes of Venetian   of the KHM­Museumsverband.  instrument museum. More   Renaissance­style Hall of
       @ 1A, 2A. Open 9am–7pm daily. 7  “silent palaces”, and today little   Vincenzo Coronelli and the    impressive, however, is the   Columns. There is a café and
                           has changed.        giant 16th-century globes by                       collection of Renaissance   bistro and 14 galleries themed
       This famous pastry shop at     The office of the provincial   Gerard Mercator.   u Ephesos Museum   instruments, widely believed to   by region or subject. There is a
       No. 14 Kohlmarkt still bears    government of Lower Austria, the       As Neue Burg. Tel 525244902.    be the finest in the world. The   permanent exhibition on the
       its imperial patent – K.u.k.    Landhaus, is at No. 13; the façade   t Hofburg Complex   Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun.   claviorgan (1596), the oldest   English explorer James Cook.
       Hof-Zuckerbäcker – proudly   of the present building dates             ∑ khm.at            surviving example of this   But the most prized piece is the
       lettered above the shopfront.  from the 1830s. In the courtyard   See pp98–103.            instrument, is particularly   500­year­old green quetzal­
       The pastry shop was founded                                            For decades         interesting, and features stops   feather Penacho tribal head­
       in Michaelerplatz in 1785 and                                          Austrian            used to create special effects   dress from Mexico, sometimes
       acquired by the pâtissier                                              archaeologists      such as birdsong.   attributed to Montezuma. There
       Christoph Demel in 1857, before                                        have been exca­                         is also a rare collection from
       moving to its present site on                                          va ting the Greek                       Benin, but everyday items from
       Kohlmarkt in 1888. Its many                                            and Roman site                          primitive cultures ranging from
       small rooms are in an ornate                                           of Ephesus in Turkey.                   the Arctic and Himalayas to
       late 19th-century style.                                               Since 1978 their discoveries            mud huts are equally evocative.
                                                                              have been displayed in the main
                                                                              block of the Neue Burg. Also on
       w Naglergasse                                                          show are finds from the Greek
                                                                              island of Samothrace, excavated
       Map 2 D5 & 5 C2. % Herrengasse.
       @ 1A, 2A.                                                              in the 1870s. The main exhibits
                                                                              include a huge frieze com mem­
       During the Middle Ages needle-                                         o rating Lucius Verus’s victory over
       makers had their shops here,                                           the Parthians in AD 165, and   Renaissance cittern from the
       which is how the street acquired   People walking along Herrengasse, a street with a rich history  many architectural fragments.  Sammlung Alter Musikinstrumente



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