Page 259 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Portugal
P. 259

mishap, compounded by the
                                               transfer of the bishopric to
                                               Bragança, led the town into a
                                               deep economic decline, only
                                               halted by trade links with the
                                               coast and Spain.
                                                 The lovely twin-towered
                                               Sé was founded in the 16th
                                               century. The cathedral’s most
                                               orig inal fea ture is a wooden
                                               figure of the boy Jesus in the
                                               south transept. The Menino
                                               Jesus da Cartolinha represents
                                               a boy who, legend tells,
                                               appeared during a Spanish
                                               siege in 1711 to rally the
                                               demoralized Portuguese to
             EAT                               miraculous victory. Devotees
                                               dressed the statue in 17th-
                           16                  century costume and later
         Adega do Faustino  Miranda do Douro   gave him a top hat (cartolinha).
                                                 The excellent Museu da
           This former wine                    Terra de Miranda houses an
        merchant’s store is lined   ! G1   @   n Largo do Menino   eclectic display of archaeo-
          with giant barrels. It   Jesus da Cartolinha; 273   logical finds, folk costume, a
         offers a wide range of   430 025
        tasty pesticos (tapas), as             reconstruction of a Mirandês
         well as grilled fish and   This medieval outpost stands   farmhouse parlour and curious
         meats, and of course   on top of the Douro gorge,   rural devices such as an
        wines, at bargain prices.  which here forms an abrupt   in  flated pig’s-bladder cosh.
                                                 Just southwest of Miranda,
                           border with Spain. Its key
            ! F1   ⌂ Travessa   position and the establishment   the village of Duas Igrejas is
           Cândido dos Reis,
           Chaves   ¢ Sun      of a bishopric here in 1545   famed for its stick dancers, or
          ∑ adegafaustino.pt    paved the way for the town’s   pauliteiros, who perform at
                           development into the cultural   local festivals and overseas.
             ¡¡¡           and religious centre of Trás-
                           os-Montes. In 1762, during the   Museu da Terra
            Flor de Sal    Seven Years’ War against   de Miranda
            This elegant,   France and Spain, the powder   "   ⌂ Largo Dom João III
           contemporary    store exploded, claiming 400   § 273 417 288   # 2–6pm Tue,
          restaurant serves   lives and destroying the castle   9am–1pm, 2–6pm Wed–Sun
         award-winning cuisine   (only the keep remains). This   ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
          based on fresh local
         ingredients. Sit on the
           riverside deck.
          ! F1   ⌂ Parque Dr José
           Gama, Mirandela
           § 278 203 063
             ¡¡¡




       species such as wolves and
       golden eagles.
         Little changed from medie-
       val times, villages such as
       França and Montesinho are
       typical in their stone houses,
       wooden balconies and cobbled
       streets. Ancient practices such   Local pauliteiros (stick
       as her bal cures and reverence   dancers) performing in
       for the supernatural linger.  the village of Duas Igrejas
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