Page 287 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Morocco

OU ARZAZA TE & THE SOUTHERN O ASES  285

However, religious dissent
and the instability of the rival
tribes that regularly launched
raids on the city led to its
destruction. The first town had
a pisé wall on stone foundations
pierced by eight gates, and
contained a palace, fine houses,
public baths and many gardens.
A few vestiges of these emerge
from the sand just west of Rissani.
The Rissani Souk is one
of the most famous in the area.
Donkeys, mules, sheep and
goats are enclosed in corrals.
Stalls are piled with shining
pyramids of dates, as well as Erg Chebbi and the small rain-filled lake Dayet Srji
with vegetables and spices.
Beneath roofs made of palm- of sultans and, protected by a f Merzouga
matting and narrow pisé double earth wall, part of the Road Map E4. 53 km (33 miles)
alleyways, jewellery, daggers, royal treasury. southeast of Erfoud. ( Sat.
carpets, woven palm fibre About 2 km (1 mile) from
baskets, pottery and fine local the mausoleum stands the The small Saharan oasis
leather items, made from goat Oulad Abdelhalim Ksar. It of Merzouga, much damaged
skins tanned with tam arisk bark, was built in 1900 for the elder by floods in 2006, is famous
are laid out for sale. brother of Sultan for its location at the foot of
South of Rissani, Moulay Hassan, who the Erg Chebbi Dunes. These
a 20-km (13-mile) was made governor photogenic dunes, which
route marked by of the Tafilalt. The rise up out of the stony, sandy
many ksour crosses monumental desert, extend for 30 km
the palm grove. entrance, with (19 miles), and reach a
After 2.5 km elaborate decoration maximum height of 250 m
(1.5 miles) stands in its upper part, opens (820 ft). At sunrise or dusk, the
the Mausoleum of onto a labyrinth of half-light gives the sand a
Moulay Ali Cherif, dilapidated rooms. fascinating range of colours.
where the father of Two rooms still have Although they are nearer
Moulay er-Rachid, Well in the their painted ceilings. to Rissani, Merzouga and the
founder of the Oulad-Abdelhalim ksar The route takes Erg Chebbi dunes are easier to
Alaouite dynasty, is in many other ksour, reach from Erfoud. The services
laid to rest. The mausoleum including those of Assererhine, of a guide are not necessary,
was rebuilt in 1955, after it was Zaouïa el-Maati, Irara, Gaouz, except when high winds whip
damaged by a serious flooding Tabassamt and Ouirhlane. up the sand. From Erfoud,
of Wadi Ziz. A courtyard leads The ksar of Tinrheras, set on going in the direction of Taouz,
to the burial chamber, to which a promontory, also comes the metalled road degenerates
non-Muslims are not admitted. into view. into a track after 16 km
Behind the mausoleum are The road leading to the (10 miles). Beyond the Auberge
the ruins of the 19th-century Draa valley via Tazzarine and Derkaoua, visitors should follow
Abbar Ksar. This former Tansikht starts from Rissani. the line of telegraph poles.
residence once housed exiled The dunes come into
Alaouite princes, the widows view on the left. At
Merzouga, camel
drivers offer one-hour
to two-day tours of
the dunes.
Dayet Srji, a
small lake west of
the village, sometimes
fills with water during
the winter, after
sudden rainfall. It
attracts hundreds
of pink flamingoes,
storks and other
Procession at the foot of the Erg Chebbi dunes, during the Date Festival migratory birds.

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