Page 167 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 165

L A G O I N V A L L O MB R O S A
HQ Corpo 0 metres 150 150
0 yards
Forestale

V I A D E L
Fish
V I A S A N B E N E D E T T O
Pond Cappella delle
Colonne
Cappella del Paradisino
Beato Migliore
Cappella del Masso
V I A SA N G I O VA N G U A L B E R T O I N S A L T I N O Church di San Gualberto Above Grassy remains of the 1st-century BC
Cappella di Roman theatre, Fiesole Below Aerial view of
San Torello Abbazia di Vallombrosa, set within the forest
Centro Visatori
V I A D E L P A R A D I S I N O V I A D E L P A R A D I S I N O
Vie di Legni
EAT AND DRINK
Faggio Santo FIESOLE
Ristorante Perseus inexpensive
Rustic tables and unfussy food are
combined with great atmosphere,
stocked with fish, which was a useful English poet John Milton stayed here, especially on summer evenings when
food source for the monks. Follow Via as he mentioned Vallombrosa in his booking is recommended.
San Benedetto downhill; on the right poem, Paradise Lost. The terrace Piazza Mino 9r, 50014; 055 591 43;
closed Mon–Wed in winter
are the well-ordered Giardino offers splendid views – on a clear
Botanico (Botanic Gardens) and, at day – all the way to Florence’s Duomo. La Reggia degli Etruschi moderate
the bottom of the hill, the chalet-like Across the road from Paradisino is Excellent Tuscan cuisine is served in
this large restaurant with panoramic
HQ Corpo Forestale 4. At this point, a gushing fountain of ice-cold water. views over Florence. Enjoy wine
turn hard right. The path runs up the The road now slopes down towards tasting in the enoteca.
hill between some buildings of the the abbey and soon reaches an open Via San Francesco 18, 50014; 055 593
Corpo Forestale. Pass the open area area and a rough stone path leading 85; www.lareggiadeglietruschi.com
to the left, where an old saw mill up to the woods. Beside it are steep, ABBAZIA DI VALLOMBROSA
once stood, to a pretty picnic spot stone-lined cuttings forming artificial Archimede moderate
where water flows into the old public avenues called Vie di Legni (Wooden This restaurant uses vegetables
washing basin from the pond above. Roads) 0. These avenues once criss- straight from the owner’s farm. The
With the pond to the right, take the crossed the mountains and were Tuscan dishes include ribollita (bread
track straight uphill, marked Scala used to drag giant tree trunks to the and vegetable soup), mixed grills and
meat and fowl roasted on a spit.
Santa. At this point, the path becomes Arno to be floated down to Florence. Loc. Ponte Casalino, 50066; 055 869
steeper and the irregular stonework Further on, to the left, is the chapel 055; www.ristorantearchimede.it;
makes sensible shoes preferable. Faggio Santo (The Holy Beech Tree) closed Tue in winter
Once past the confines of the q, the holiest place here. The abbey’s
monastery, the path turns sharp left founder, St Gualberto, is said to have
over a stone bridge to a small chapel, arrived in a snowstorm and rested
the Cappella di San Torello 5. This is beneath the tree. When he awoke, it
the first of four chapels set in beautiful had sprouted leaves to protect him
woodland, the others being Cappella from the elements. The tree is still
del Masso di San Gualberto 6, there. A 10-minute walk leads back to
Cappella delle Colonne 7 and, after the abbey complex and the car park.
a sharp right turn, Cappella del Beato There is a good bar with toilet
Migliore 8. To the left of the last is a facilities above a large village green.
stone staircase leading up to the road ª Turn right along winding Via del
and the Paradisino 9. This complex Lago in Vallombrosa (to Consuma).
was originally a group of monk’s cells Turn right signposted Passo della
clustered around the small church. Consuma at Via Casentinese/SR70,
As the monastery’s fame grew and then left at SP74. Follow the brown
more visitors arrived, it became a signs to Castello di Romena.
type of hotel. It is believed that the Follow the road to the car park.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 165 21/09/17 11:17 am