Page 168 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

166 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

WHERE TO STAY
3 Castello di Romena and the three naves, pillars with
STIA AND AROUND Pratovecchio, Arezzo, Toscana; 52015 Lombard Christian capitals referring
Monastero Santa Maria Dating from the 10th century, this to fertility rites, and unadorned interior
della Neve inexpensive Castello (Jul–Aug: open daily; Mar–Oct: evoke a spiritual calm and tranquillity.
Set in the historic centre and run by open Thu–Sun; closed Nov–Feb) once had There is also a picnic area looking out
Dominican nuns, this guesthouse three central towers and 11 smaller over the valley towards Poppi.
offers basic but comfortable rooms. ones reinforcing the walls. Set on the ª Turn right on SP74 towards Stia,
Rules of the order apply (10pm curfew).
Piazza Landino 25, Pratovecchio 52015 highest defensive point of the then right on Via Fiorentina/SP73 into
(southeast of Stia on SP310); 0575 583 Casentino valley, the castle is thought Pratovecchio. After the piazza, turn left
774; www.monasterystays.com to have been visited by the poet into Via Garibaldi, then Via Roma to
Albergo Falterona inexpensive Dante (c.1265–1321) – who mentions “Centro Stia”. Don’t take SP556, keep
This newly refurbished hotel in a it in his Divine Comedy – after his exile straight, then right on Via Edmondo
Renaissance building in the historic from Florence. The castle still has its De Amicis. Take first left, under the arch
centre of town has a comfortable and keep, central tower with drawbridge, and park in Piazza Bernardo Tanucci.
relaxed atmosphere. Rooms are beamed
and some have frescoed ceilings. prison tower and Piazza d’Armi, where
Piazza Tanucci 85, 52017; 0575 583 the army was trained. Cypresses mark 4 Stia
545; www.albergofalterona.it the position of the walls and there Arezzo, Toscana; 52017
Borgo Tramonte inexpensive are fabulous views of the valley below. The pretty, historic town of Stia nestles
Simple, clean, rustic-style rooms in a The delightful Pieve di San Pietro di between the River Staggia and the
large restored 18th-century farmhouse Romena is nearby – head back down nascent River Arno, which runs down
on the edge of the Casentino Forest. the tree-lined avenue and take the the Casentino valley and on to
Enjoy the nearby walking trails,
mountain biking and horse riding. track on the left. At the T-junction, Florence. The town developed in the
Loc. Papiano, 52017; 0575 581 404; turn right on SP73 and into the car 11th century under the jurisdiction
www.borgotramonte.it park. The earliest reference to this of the Guidi Counts from Poppi, who
church was in 1054 and the current ruled over the area from the 11th–15th
CAMÁLDOLI AND AROUND building dates to 1152. There is centuries. Stia prospered down the
Monastery of Camáldoli inexpensive evidence of an earlier building from centuries due to its excellent woollen
Run by Benedictine monks, this offers
basic but peaceful stays within the an Etruscan or Roman cult. The cloth production, an industry that
monastery – rules apply (11pm curfew). simple Romanesque semicircular continues to this day. The centre of
Monastery of Camáldoli, 52010; 0575 apse faces east towards Jerusalem town is set around Piazza Tanucci
556 012; www.monasterystays.com
I Tre Baroni moderate
This resort in Moggiona, on the road
to Camáldoli, is a combination of
hotel rooms and apartments
scattered through the village. The
décor is period and the place is
relatively relaxed.
Via di Camáldoli 52, 52010 Moggiona
di Poppi; 0575 556 204; www.
itrebaroni.it

Top The ruins of Castello di Romena, above
the Casentino valley Right Piazza Tanucci’s
centrepiece, the Fontana dei Serpenti, Stia
Far right The charming Romanesque Pieve di
San Pietro di Romena, Castello di Romena
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 166 21/09/17 11:17 am