Page 170 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

168 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Above The medieval walled town of Anghiari,
decked with flags Above right The birthplace 6 Poppi a local vet in 1972, and there is a
of sculptor Michelangelo, Caprese Michelangelo Arezzo, Toscana; 52014 small train to help visitors get about.
The historic heart of this castellated ª Cross back over the Arno to Piazza
WHERE TO STAY town rises majestically above the Garibaldi, then turn right at SR70
modern commercial centre. Poppi towards Santuario della Verna/Via
POPPI was the seat of power of the Guidi Bibbiena SR71. On SR71, keep left
Albergo Casentino inexpensive Counts until they picked the wrong onto Viale Michelangelo, then a sharp
The only hotel in the historic centre of side in the 1440 war between left onto Viale Luigi Gori/SS208 all the
Poppi fronts onto the piazza with comfy
rooms, a garden and restaurant. Florence and Milan. Fortunately, the way to La Verna. From the car park it’s
Piazza della Repubblica 6, 52014; 0575 splendid 12th-century Castello dei a 5–10-minute walk to the Sanctuary.
529 090; www.albergocasentino.it Conti Guidi (open 10am–7pm daily)
remains, with its magnificent tower, Della Robbia
CAPRESE MICHELANGELO mullion windows, battlements and
Il Vigno inexpensive stone staircases. Other highlights La Verna and the Casentino is home
to terracotta masterpieces of the
A rustic collection of restored farm
buildings with rooms and apartments include the colonnaded Piazza Della Robbia sculptors. Luca della
Robbia (1400–82) perfected a white
at daily or weekly rates. Mountain Amerighi, and the 17th-century
bikes and trail maps available. hexagonal Chiesa di Madonna del majolica with a blue background,
Loc. il Vigno 262, 52033; 0575 792 019; Morbo with a Madonna and Child by and yellow and green glazes to
www.agriturismoilvigno.eu protect the works from the elements.
Filippino Lippi (1457–1504). Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525)
Terra di Michelangelo moderate For something different, visit the created the masterpieces The
This agriturismo (farm stay) is a complex Poppi Zoo (open 9am–6pm daily; www. Crucifixion and The Assumption in
of stone farmhouses, apartments and parcozoopoppi.it). This large parkland, the Basilica Maggiore at La Verna.
rooms offering daily and weekly rates.
Loc. San Polo 70, 52033; 0575 791 055; dotted with pine, chestnut and oak
www.terradimichelangelo.com trees, houses various European animals
such as lynxes, wolves, deer, beavers 7 La Verna
Below The Santuario della Verna, where St Francis and porcupines in generally spacious Arezzo, Toscana; 52010
of Assisi once stayed enclosures. The zoo was founded by One of the holiest sites in Italy,
Santuario della Verna (www.laverna.
it) is a monastic community that
developed around Saint Francis of
Assisi (1182–1226) who spent 40
days in retreat here in 1224. While in
La Verna, he developed stigmata –
the wounds of Christ appeared on his
body. Count Orlando of Chiusi gave
La Verna to Francis as a retreat for
contemplation and built him the
chapel Santa Maria degli Angeli, the
nucleus of the convent. The sanctuary
appeals to believers and non-religious
alike as its stunning views, pristine
woods and fascinating collection of
buildings and the stories associated
with them are compelling.

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