Page 169 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 167

with the Fontana dei Serpenti and and elaborate cornices. Look out for Above left Eremo di Camáldoli, founded by
the Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, a the fine altarpiece of the Madonna San Romualdo Above centre The Casentino
Romanesque church with a splendid by Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525). Forest, where the monks sought isolation
Annunciation by Bicci di Lorenzo Neaby, along Località Camáldoli, Above right Façade of the Romanesque
(1414). There’s also a shop selling the lies another interesting monastic Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, Stia
famous local Casentino cloth. complex, run by the same order as
ª At lower end of Piazza Tanucci the hermitage. The Monastery of EAT AND DRINK
turn left before the bridge on SP310, Camáldoli, however, maintains closer STIA
back to Pratovecchio, turn left to community contact. At the centre of
Via Monte/SP72, then left onto Via the hamlet is a large hostel, a Il Ristorante Fattoria La Foresta
moderate
Appennino/SP72. Turn left to stay on monastery, and a church with major This simple and rustic restaurant
SP72 (signed Eremo di Camáldoli), works by the late-Renaissance artist serves typical local produce along
then join SP69 to the hermitage. Giorgio Vasari (1511–74). Don’t miss with seafood, home-made pasta
the Antica Farmacia (1543) – an old and Florentine steaks.
The Casentino Forest pharmacy – with walnut cabinets. Via Roma 31, 52017; 0575 582 032;
closed Tue
This vast forest provided the wood Camáldoli is also home to the
used to build the great fleet of the Foreste Casentinesi Visitor Centre CAMALDOLI
Medicis and, today, the Parco (open spring & summer), which has good Albergo Ristorante Camáldoli
Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, maps of the area, making it the inexpensive
Monte Falterona e Campigna (www. perfect starting place for exploring This guesthouse has been looking
parcoforestecasentinesi.it) is still one after travellers for years. Rustic fare
of the most prized forests in Europe. the park’s 600-km (373-mile) network includes delicious acquacotta (literally
The forest is an important sanctuary of paths on foot, horseback or by bike. “cooked water”) – a hearty Tuscan
for the Apennine wolf, wild boar, ª Head south along SP67 towards soup, ravioli all’ortica made with ricotta
deer, and mouflon (mountain sheep). Poppi. At the junction with Via Roma/ and nettles, and roasted wild fennel.
Loc. Camáldoli, 52010; 0575 556 019
SR70 turn right, then left on Piazza
Garibaldi/SP65. Cross the bridge and
5 Camáldoli turn left into Piazza 4 Novembre, follow Below A glade at Camáldoli in the
Arezzo, Toscana; 52010 round to Piazza Gramsci and park. Casentino Forest
Italian monks sought to understand
God better by withdrawing from the
world to a life of contemplation in the
forest. The Eremo di Camáldoli (www.
Camaldoli.it) was one of the hermitages
founded by the Benedictine monk San
Romualdo (c. 953–1027), son of the
duke of Ravenna. He established
a community of five cells with a small
oratory here in c.1024. Only 14 monks
remain, cut off from visitors, but
Romualdo’s original austere cell is still
visible. The Church of the Hermitage
(c.1220) underwent an astonishing
Baroque transformation in the late
16th century, giving it grand frescoes
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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