Page 171 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 169

COURSES IN POPPI
9 Anghiari
Arezzo, Toscana; 52031 Centro di Cultura Italiana Casentino
The unquestionable antiquity of this This cultural centre runs courses on the
Italian language and seminars on opera,
medieval citadel gives it a special cooking and even stone masonry.
charm and its knot of ancient lanes Via Cesare Battisti 5, 52014; 0575 529
and piazzas is pleasant to wander 774; www.parlital.it
round. It was of strategic importance
because of its position on the trading EAT AND DRINK
routes between the Adriatic and LA VERNA
central Italy. Impressive sections of its Refettorio del Pellegrino inexpensive
12th- and 13th-century walls remain Visitors to the refectory can expect
intact, containing several gateways a wholesome, set-price three-course
and even old churches. Apart from a meal, including a glass of wine.
reputed visit by Thomas Beckett in Santuario della Verna, 52010; 0575
the 12th century, Anghiari is most 5341; meals 12–1:30pm and 7:30pm
famous for the decisive battle in CAPRESE MICHELANGELO
ª Head southeast on SP208, turn right 1440, when the Florentine Medicis Il Rifugio moderate
onto Via Roma/SP60, then left on SP54 defeated the superior forces of the Expect hearty mountain food such as
to Caprese Michelangelo. Turn left at Via Visconti Milanese. Palazzo della home-made pasta with local truffles
Capoluogo, go up the hill and park. Battaglia (open 9am–7pm daily), in and mushrooms, and roast meats.
Loc. Lama di Caprese 47, 52033; 0575
the central Piazza Mameli, has scale 793 752; www.ilrifugioristorante.eu;
8 Caprese Michelangelo models of the battle. The town’s closed Wed
Arezzo, Toscana; 52033a main square, Piazza Balduccio, has Il Cerro moderate
This small mountain town is best a statue of Garibaldi and has been This family-run restaurant pays great
known as the birthplace, in 1475, a market area for 800 years. attention to local produce and wines.
of Michelangelo Buonarroti, one Via Il CerRo 120, 52033; 0575 793 923;
of the greatest artists of all time. www.ristoranteilcerro.com; closed Mon
& Tue
His father, a government function -
ary, worked here briefly, but soon ANGHIARI
after the boy’s birth, the family Ristorante La Nena moderate
returned to Florence. It is said that A cosy restaurant with attention
the artist returned here frequently, to detail on classic Tuscan dishes.
Corso Matteotti 10, 52031; 0575 789 491;
but there’s little evidence of his www.ristorantenena.it; closed Mon
presence. In the remains of the
castle is located a small museum Da Alighiero moderate–expensive
Enjoy superb home-made pastas with
(www.capresemichelangelo.net; open porcini, Chianina veal with rosemary,
11am–6pm Tue–Sun) for those who and semifreddo with pistachios.
wish to pay homage. Via Garibaldi 8, 52031; 0575 788 040;
ª Head south on SP47 to Anghiari. www.daalighiero.it; closed Tue
Follow SP43 avoiding signs for Centro,
then turn right up Corso Giacomo Top left Small shrine in the pristine
Matteotti to the car park. Walk via the woodland around La Verna Left The imposing
tunnel to the elevator up to town centre. tower of Castello dei Conti Guidi, Poppi
DAY TRIP OPTIONS From Stia, take the SP della Scarpaccia Secluded retreats
Younger kids will love the castles to Castello di Romena. Take SP73 to Based at Poppi 6, see its Madonna
and the zoo, while older ones should SR70 to Poppi. Return on SR70, SP310. and Child, then shop for picnic
enjoy Roman sights, a picnic and a Romans and a forest walk supplies. Drive to Camáldoli 5 to
forest walk. The more spiritual will tour the monastery and then picnic
enjoy the quiet forest holy places. Based at Fiesole 1, spend some time at the hermitage. Next, stop at Stia 4
shopping for a picnic. Then tour the to see its Romanesque church and
Castellos and animals Roman sights and museums, climbing then visit the delightful church
From pretty Stia 4, visit the up to the acropolis. Drive to Abbazia at Castello di Romena 3.
impressive ruins of Castello di di Vallombrosa 2 and enjoy a picnic From Poppi, head north on SP67 and
Romena 3, then drive on to the there, with the abbey’s jam, then work SP69 to Camáldoli. SP72, SP310 to
well-preserved Castello dei Conti off the food with a walk in the woods. Stia. SP della Scarpaccia, then left
Guidi in Poppi 6. For a final treat, Follow the drive’s directions, then to Romena. Take SP73 to SR70
hop on a train tour of Poppi zoo. return the same way. back to Poppi.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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