Page 185 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 183

Teatro 0 meters 150
Romano
V.SAN FELICE VIA DEL MANDORLO V I A D E I S A R T I V I A G U A R N A C C I 0 yards 150
Pinacoteca
and Museo Civico
V. ROMA V. BUONPARENTI VIA DELLE PRIGIONI
Piazza
VIA RICCIARELLI
dei Priori
V I A F R AN CES CHI NI
Duomo VIA M ATTEOTTI V I A D I S O T T O
V . D P I E T R A I A
PIAZZA Palazzo
SAN GIOVANNI VIA TURAZZA dei Priori V I A G R A M S C I XX SETTEMBRE V I A D I P O R T A M A R C O L I
PIAZZA
VIA PORTA ALL’ARCO
Baptistry
PIAZZA MARTIRI
DELLA LIBERTÀ
Parco Archeologico Museo Etrusco V I A L E V I T TO R I O V E N E T O
Porta Enrico Flumi Guarnacci
V I A L E T R E N T O E T R I E S T E
all’Arco
Fortezza V I A D I C A S T E L L O
V I A D O N M I N Z O N I
Medicea
Porta a Selci
V I A L E D E I P O N T I
4 Volterra VISITING VOLTERRA
Pisa, Tuscany; 56048 Tourist Information
One of the 12 city-states of the Etruscan League, Volterra had Piazza dei Priori 20, 56048; 058 887
well-built walls and portals, and later, a Roman theatre. During the 257; www.volterratur.it
medieval period the town built its Duomo and fine civic buildings Alabaster workshops
and in the Renaissance the ruling Medici built a fort. Volterra is famous Visits to Volterra’s workshops can be
arranged at the tourist office. The Artists’
for its tradition of alabaster carving – look for the artist’s workshops. Co-operative (5 Piazza dei Priori) has an
excellent showroom, and the Alabaster
EcoMuseum (Piazza Minucci) has
A two-hour walking tour Romano 7. Retrace steps to Via dei interesting displays of tools,
From the car park, head southwest Sarti, proceed downhill, turning right techniques and alabaster sculptures.
and through Porta all’Arco 1, an into Via Matteotti, a vibrant shopping
Etruscan gate from the 3rd or 2nd street, and left into Via Gramsci, EAT AND DRINK
century BC. Continue up Via Porta which becomes Via Don Minzoni. The
all’Arco and turn left at Via del Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 8, one of SAN MINIATO
Marchesi to Piazza dei Priori Tuscany’s most important Pepenero expensive
2. To the left is the museums, has superb Chef Gilberto Rossi serves innovative
Palazzo dei Priori 3 examples of Etruscan ala- cuisine amid casual-chic décor under
(1254), the oldest town baster work. Don’t miss brick arches in the centre of town.
Via IV Novembre 13, 56028; 0571 419
hall in Tuscany with tera- the Funeral Urn of the 523; www.pepenerocucina.it;
cotta shields of the Married Couple and the closed Tue & lunch Sat
Florentine rulers of the modern-looking statu- AROUND CASTELFIORENTINO
15th century. Turn down ette Evening Shadow. At Il Cigliere Del Rustico expensive
Via Turazza to Piazza San Rondel in the style of the street end is the 16th- This family-friendly restaurant serves
Giovanni and the Duomo Luca della Robbia century Porta a Selci 9. good Tuscan home cooking – 6 km
4, dedicated to Santa Retrace steps and turn left (4 miles) from town, just off the road.
Maria. Founded in the 9th century, up Via di Castello. Immediately ahead Via Onofrio Di Paolo 24, 50051; 0571
and reconstructed after an earthquake is the Fortezza Medicea 0, in two 582 154; www.ciglieredelrustico.it;
open Sat eve Jul–Aug, Sun lunch Sep–
in the 12th century, the church has a parts. The later building was added by Dec & Mar–Jun
Romanesque façade by Nicola Pisano. Medici ruler Lorenzo il Magnifico to
Directly in front of the Duomo is the house criminals, and it is still used as a VOLTERRA
eight-sided Baptistry 5, built on the prison. Continue to the Parco Del Duca moderate
site of a pagan temple. Pass the loggia Archeologico Enrico Fiumi q (summer: A refined restaurant where guests are
made to feel very welcome. Great food,
of the founding hospital and turn right 8:30am–8pm; winter: 8:30am–5pm), the excellent wines and superb ambience.
into Via Roma and Via Buonparenti. site of the ancient acropolis. Descend Via Di Castello 2, 56048; 0588 81510;
In Via dei Sarti, the Pinacoteca and the stairs to the northwest into Via www.enoteca-delduca-ristorante.it;
Museo Civico 6 (open daily) is worth dei Marchesi and head left, back to closed Tue
a visit to see Fiorentino’s Mannerist Piazza Martiri della Libertà. Osteria La Pace moderate
masterpiece, The Deposition (1521). ª Leave on SS68 east. Turn left at SP47. This is a small but lively restaurant in
Turn into Passo del Gralduccio in At the roundabout, take the 3rd exit the historic centre. Try the home-made
Plazza Minucci, then right for excel- onto SP1, go around Piazzale Martiri tagliatelle with truffle, or grilled meats.
Via Don Minzoni 49, 56048; 0588 86511;
lent view of the 1st-century Teatro Montemaggio and park in Via dei Foss. www.osterialapace.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate €25–€45; expensive over €45
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