Page 186 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
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184 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


       Right The Romanesque Church of Santa Maria
       Assunta, Monteriggioni  Centre right Brightly
       coloured ceramic wares for sale in Siena
       Far right The multi-towered medieval town
       of San Gimignano  Below The Chiostro Grande
       in the Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey

        WHERE TO STAY
       SAN GIMIGNANO
       Hotel Relais Santa Chiara moderate
       This modern and comfortable hotel is
       within easy walking distance of the
       town, with parking, pool and gardens.
       Via Matteotti 15, 53037; 0577 940 701;
       www.rsc.it              5 San Gimignano         papermaking industry to flourish, but
       Hotel Leon Bianco moderate  Siena, Tuscany; 53037  it was glassmaking, particularly fine
       Right in the centre of San Gimignano,   From far away, San Gimignano’s   crystal, that gave it wider fame. From
       this good-value three-star hotel has   medieval towers – 14 of the original   Colle “bassa”, take the elevator up to
       elegant rooms and a breakfast terrace.   72 remain – are a visible sign of the   the castello, the oldest part of the
       Piazza Cisterna, 53037; 0577 941 294;
       www.leonbianco.com      prosperity brought by the Via   town, near the tower-house where
                               Francigena (see box). Don’t miss the   13th-century sculptor and architect
       La Collegiata expensive  Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta   Arnolfo di Cambio was born. From
       This stunning 17th-century converted
       monastery offers stylish luxury less than   (open daily; closed Feb), consecrated in   here, it’s a pleasant walk to the west
       2 km (1 mile) from the historic centre.   1148, with an interior decorated in the  and the impressive twin bulwarks of
       Localitá Strada 27, 53037; 0577 943   15th century by artists such as Benozzo  the Porta Nova.
       201; www.lacollegiata.it  Gozzoli. Climb the 218 steps to view   ª Exit the car park turning right
       COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA     the splendid panorama from the   and continue until left turn at Via
       Relais Della Rovere expensive  tallest tower, Torre Grosso (open daily).  XXV Aprile. Continue onto SP5, over
       Pope Julius II built this villa just outside   The San Gimignano1300 (Via   the autostrada, then right on SR2
       the town next to the monastery. Well-  Berignano 23; open daily) is a museum   towards Siena; turn left into
       restored, it has elegant rooms.    whose main exhibit is a scale model   Monteriggioni and car park.
       Via Piemonte 10, 53034; 0577 924 696;   of the town in the year 1300.
       www.relaisdellarovere.it
                               ª Follow signs to Colle di Val d’Elsa.   7 Monteriggioni
       MONTERIGGIONI           At the 2nd roundabout, turn left into   Siena, Tuscany; 53035
       La Canonica di San Michele moderate  Via Armando Diaz/SS541. Follow signs   A rare example of a garrison town with
       This restored 13th-century villa has   for “P-ascensore” in Via di Fontibona.   an intact circle of walls, Monteriggioni
       retained many original features and is   Use the free parking and lift.  safeguarded the Via Francigena and
       set in an area of pristine natural beauty.
       Strada di Fungaia 11, 53035; 0577 317           Siena’s gateway to the Val d’Elsa.
       514; www.lacanonicadisanmichele.com  6 Colle di Val d’Elsa  Fourteen towers guard a mere 570 m
                               Siena, Tuscany; 53034   (1,870 ft) of walls, crowning a gentle
       SIENA AND AROUND        This historic town is split into two   rise in the valley. Enter Porta Franca o
       La Grotta di Montecchino inexpensive  sections, with Colle “alta” overlooking   Romea into Piazza Roma and visit the
       These self-catering farmhouse
       apartments, 2 km (1 mile) west of Siena,   the lively Colle “bassa”. The town’s   simple, 13th-century Romanesque
       offer simple, rustic comfort with a   location on the River Elsa enabled a   Church of Santa Maria Assunta, first
       barbeque and pool – good for families.          mentioned in the 7th century.
       Strada Grossetana 87, Sant’Andrea a             ª Follow signs for Autostrada
       Montecchio, 53010; 0577 394 250;                Firenze-Siena towards Siena. Take
       www.montecchino.it
                                                       Siena Sud exit. Turn right on SP6, then
       Palazzo Fani Mignanelli moderate                second left at Via di Tuli. Drive through
       Superbly located in the historic centre,
       this swish residence offers spacious,           Park dei Tuli and right into the Via
       good-value junior suites.                       Fontanella car park. Follow signs for
       Via Banchi di Sopra 15, 53100; 0577             Piazza il Campo on foot.
       283 566; www.residenzadepoca.it
       Certosa di Maggiano expensive                   8 Siena
       The epitome of luxury, this 14th-century        Siena, Tuscany; 53100
       converted Carthusian monastery, on              Many branches of the Via Francigena
       the southeast edge of town, has
       everything – including a helipad.               converged on Siena and perhaps no
       Strada di Certosa 82, 53100; 0577 288           other city owes so much of its heritage
       180; www.certosadimaggiano.com                  to the pilgrim way. It is said that in


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