Page 187 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 185

complex of Santa Maria della Scala SIENESE PANFORTE
(open daily), dating from 1090, was the First recorded in the 1300s, panforte,
biggest pilgrim hospice and was richly (strong bread) is a rich, chewy mix of
endowed by the city of Siena. Today, flour, almonds, egg white and honey,
it is a cultural institute, gallery and with dried fruit and candied oranges.
It provided sustenance for pilgrims and
underground archaeological has become the signature fare of Siena.
museum. Its most important exhibit It is available in many shops in the city.
is the fresco cycle in the Sala del
Pellegrinaio, which provides amazing EAT AND DRINK
detail of both hospital and pilgrim SAN GIMIGNANO
life in the 14th century. Trattoria Chiribiri inexpensive
ª Return to Tangenziale Siena Ovest. Serves traditional Tuscan food. Try the
Head south onto the ramp, following coniglio ripieno (rabbit stuffed with
signs to Arezzo and merge onto SS223 meat and vegetables).
then right again to Arezzo. Merge onto Piazza della Madonna 1, 53037; 0577
1288, the city contained as many as E78/SS73. Take exit for Taverne D’Arbia, 941 948; www.ristorantechiribiri.it;
closed Wed
90 hotels. Travellers entered through onto SS438 to Asciano, then turn right
Porta Camollia to the north and Porta onto SS451 and follow signs to Monte MONTERIGGIONI
Romana to the south – the latter being Oliveto Maggiore and car park. Il Pozzo moderate–expensive
especially magnificent to welcome Dine inside or alfresco at this central
those from the papal city. Il Campo, Tuscan restaurant – try the steak
Fiorentina with porcini mushrooms.
the central square, is one of the most Piazza Roma 2, 53035; 0577 304 127;
famous in Italy and the location of www.ilpozzo.net; closed Sun eve & Mon
the dramatic horse race, the Palio. SIENA
The huge Torre del Mangia and the
14th-century Palazzo Pubblico (open Zest inexpensive
A quick and tasty lunch-stop, this bar
daily) form the apex of the fan-shaped also offer a good choice of wines.
square, with nine segments of herring- Costa di Sant’ Antonio 13, 53100; 0577
bone paving spreading out in front. 47139; www.zestsiena.com
The Duomo, Santa Maria Assunta Antica Trattoria Papei moderate
(open daily), completed in 1215, is a Just behind the Torre del Mangia. Serves
masterpiece of Tuscan Gothic. The traditional Sienese fare such as pici al
beautiful interior includes inlaid cinghiale (pasta with wild boar sauce).
marble floors, black-and-white Via del Mercato, 6, 53100; 0577 280
894; www.anticatrattoriapapei.com
banded marble pillars and carvings
and sculptures by major medieval MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE
and Renaissance artists, including Above Fresco from the Piccolomini Library at Trattoria La Torre inexpensive
some early works by Michelangelo. Santa Maria Assunta, Siena Located within the abbey complex, this
osteria serves typical Tuscan cuisine. Try
One highlight is the 15th-century the ribollita soup and pecorino cheeses.
Piccolomini Library, with paintings by 9 Monte Oliveto Maggiore Loc. Chiusure, 53041; 0577 707 022;
Pinturicchio of episodes from the life Siena, Tuscany 53041 closed Tue
of Pope Pius II, founder of Pienza. Surrounded by a serried array of
Opposite, the Museum and Art cypress trees and accessed by a small Below Steps leading into Santa Maria
drawbridge, the Benedictine abbey Assunta, Siena’s stunning cathedral
Pilgrims’ Way Monte Oliveto Maggiore (open daily)
The medieval Church encouraged is still an active monastery. The main
people to make pilgrimages to church is noted for its intricately carved
holy places such as Rome. It was wooden choir stalls and inlays. The
believed that if you prayed at these library is of immense historical
shrines, you might be forgiven for importance, but access is limited. The
your sins and have more chance of
going to heaven. Many travelled Chiostro Grande is the main attraction,
to Rome from France, so these illuminated by frescoes about the life
pilgrim routes were known as of St Benedict created by Luca
the Via Francigena. Sigeric the Signorelli in 1497 and Antonio Bazzi
Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury (called “Sodoma”) in 1505. Another
(AD 990–994) kept a diary on his highlight is the atmospheric
trip, detailing the stages. The work
was copied many times and Gregorian chant (6:15pm daily).
distributed widely, thus becoming ª Exit the monastery, turn left at
one of the first travel guidebooks. SS451 to Buonconvento. There is
ample parking by the walls.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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