Page 189 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 187

Pope Pius II’s (1405–64) family coat of
arms – Piccolomini – over the doors.
ª Return to SP99, turn left and left
again on SP73bis (Massa Marittima). A
little way after passing Frosini turn right
on Strada Provinciale di Chiusdino/
SP31. Park in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti.
e Chiusdino
Siena, Tuscany; 53012
The hill town of Chiusdino lies
between the Colline Metallifere Above left Chapel built at the birthplace of
(Metalliferous Hills) and the gentle Val with a vaulted chapterhouse. On San Galgano, Chiusdino Above right The
di Merse, both areas of great natural the hill above is the 12th-century sleepy hamlet of Stigliano in the Val di Merse
beauty. The historic centre is a Hermitage of Montesiepi. Its simple
medieval warren of steep, narrow style is offset by a superb banded EAT AND DRINK
lanes. San Galgano was born here into brick and stone cupola, and by St SAN GALGANO
a noble family in 1148. Instead of Galgano’s sword in the stone (thought Salendo inexpensive
following a knight’s life, he plunged by some to be the source of elements This wine bar with a terrace is on the
his sword into a rock and became a of Britain’s Arthurian legend). Although road up to the Hermitage of Montesiepi,
hermit. The Chapel of Compagnia has the abbey flourished for several and offers typical local produce.
ViaPalazzetto 172, 53012; 0577 756
a bas-relief (1466) of the sword in the centuries, it was all but abandoned by 270; closed Mon
stone and San Galgano’s house (open 1600, and in 1786 its roof collapsed.
daily) is now a chapel with a banded In summer, it becomes a magical AROUND GRANCIA DI CUNA
brick façade and a 13th-century relief setting for occasional open-air operas. La Galera inexpensive
– a copy – by Giovanni di Agostino. This bar-restaurant specializes in
grilled meats, seafood and pizza.
The original is in the Casa Parrocchiale Via Roma 193, 53014; 0577 374 024;
along with a Madonna and Child by www.lagalerapubristorantepizzeria.
Niccolò di Segna of 1336. com; closed Mon
ª Exit on Via Piave/SP31, then fork AROUND TORRI
left on the Strada Comunale di Le Dal Cateni a Orgia
Vene. Turn left on Strada Provinciale A fine restaurant in Orgia, this serves
Massetana/SS441. Turn right into the excellent food – try the pasta with wild
abbey and follow signs to parking. boar and the pine kernel tart for dessert.
Via dei Pratini 19, CAP 53018, Loc.
r San Galgano Orgia; 0577 342 028;
www.dalcateniaorgia.it; closed Wed
Siena, Tuscany; 53012
One of the most striking and poignant CHIUSDINO
monuments in Tuscany is the roofless, La Grotta di Tiburzi inexpensive
ruined Abbey of San Galgano. It was A classic Tuscan kitchen with generous
servings of cheeses, salami and crostini,
built by Cistercian monks in the 13th plus delicious pasta with white truffles.
century in a fusion of French-Gothic Above Inside the peaceful and poignant ruins of Via Paolo Mascagni 15, 53012;
and Romanesque architectural styles, the Abbey of San Galgano 0577 752 948; closed Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the instructions in the drive and The Val di Merse
Volterra and Siena are great bases for return the same way. Pick up a picnic in Siena 8, then
day trips. Kids will love climbing over head to Torri w and the Val di Merse.
walls and towers. Adults will enjoy Pre-Renaissance art Enjoy a hike or cycle ride, stopping
the art that bridged the gap In Siena 8, spend the morning for lunch. Afterwards, learn about the
between medieval and Renaissance exploring the art and architecture of sword in the stone legend by driving
Italy. Everyone will enjoy the scenery. the great city. Pick up a picnic and on to San Galgano r. Finish the day
head for the frescoes of Monte with a drink in Chiusdino e, which
Towers, Castles and Walls Oliveto Maggiore 9, followed by looks out on the pristine countryside.
From Volterra 4, drive to the towers the religious art of Buonconvento
of San Gimignano 5 and climb up 0. Return via Grancia di Cuna q. Take Via Roma to SR2, then head north
the Torre Grosso’s 218 steps. Stop off on “tangenziale” to take SP73bis. Turn
at the castle at Colle di Val d’Elsa 6 Follow the drive instructions to Grancia left for Torri at Rosia. Return to SP73bis,
for lunch and head on to the di Cuna, then head for the SR2 and Via then SS441 for San Galgano and
garrison town of Monteriggioni 7. Roma back to Siena. Chiusdino. Return the same way.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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