Page 188 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

186 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Right Chiusdino, a beautiful Tuscan hill
town overlooking the Val di Merse Below
left Clock on the medieval town hall,
Buonconvento Below right Attractive
street in Buonconvento

CYCLING IN VAL DI MERSE
Biking holiday
Offering woodland trails and relatively
quiet roads, Val di Merse is ideal terrain
for biking. The tourism website Terra
di Siena (www.terresiena.it/en/bici)
has route maps for the area.

WHERE TO STAY
BUONCONVENTO
Podere Salicotto Country Hotel 0 Buonconvento for their estates. The 14th-century
moderate Siena, Tuscany; 53022 centre of the grancia is still intact, with a
This farmstay puts the emphasis on Set on a flat, fertile plain, Buonconvento courtyard and winding internal ramps
luxurious comfort with “Bed and Brunch” was always vulnerable to attack. After that enabled mules to carry their loads
(for late risers) and a swimming pool. the Sienese defeated Emperor Henry to the storage rooms above what are
Strada Prov. le Pieve a Salti, Loc.
Salicotti 73, 53022; 0577 809 087; VII in 1313, they built imposing walls, now private dwellings. To the left of
www.poderesalicotto.com securing this important stop on the the entrance is a 1314 church dedi-
Via Francigena. The pleasant centro cated to James and Christopher, the
AROUND GRANCIA DI CUNA storico is home to the Museo d’Arte patron saints of pilgrimage and travel.
Agriturismo San Giorgio inexpensive Sacra (closed Wed in summer, weekdays ª Return to Via Cassia and turn right.
This farm stay has four apartments and
also offers B&B. Set in a quiet location in winter), which has a fine collection At the roundabout turn right to
with comfy rooms and good breakfasts. of religious art. Also worth a visit is bypass the town and right at Via 4
Strada provinciale di Radi, Loc. Colle the Museo della Mezzadria Senese Novembre/SP23 signposted Castello
Malamerenda, 53014; 0577 378 147; (open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun, also 3–6pm di Grotti, then turn left for Bagnaia.
www.san-giorgio.net
Sat & Sun), an evocative display of Then turn right and left onto SP99 for
TORRI AND AROUND farming history in the region. Steam Torri. Park in Piazza Borgo.
Antico Borgo di Torri inexpensive buffs will enjoy the Nature Train
This small, family-run B&B in the centre (www.terresiena.it) that puffs from town w Torri
of Torri offers comfortable rooms to town in the area on special days. Sovicille, Siena, Tuscany; 53018
decorated in a rustic, country style. ª Head north on SR2 towards Siena. The Val di Merse is a wooded area,
Vicolo delle Cantine 1, Loc. Torri, Sovicille;
0577 345 669; www.borgoditorri.it Take exit Monteroni d’Arbia Nord, turn southwest of Siena, dotted with
left at Strada Statale Cassia/SR2 intriguing medieval villages such
Villa Ferraia expensive (south) then right onto Via Comunale. as Orgia, Stigliano and Torri, whose
This superb environmental leisure centre
offers simple but stylish rooms as well Park in Piazza della Grancia. old mills and huge granaries attest
as an organic vegetable garden, farm to the fertility of the land. Next to
and astronomical observatory. q Grancia di Cuna Torri’s church is the impressive
Pod. La Ripa, Loc. Tocchi 53015 Siena, Tuscany; 53014 11th-century Benedictine Abbey
Monticiano; 0577 757 102;
www.villaferraia.com This huge structure close to Monteroni (open 9am–noon Mon & Fri), now
d’Arbia is a medieval grancia, or privately owned. The abbey’s
AROUND CHIUSDINO fortified farm. Once a hostel providing beautiful cloister is regarded as one
Podere Santa Maria moderate shelter for pilgrims, it was taken over of the finest in Tuscany. It was built
Set in walnut forests and olive groves, in the 13th century by Siena’s Santa around a brick parquet courtyard in
this farm stay has apartments and
rooms with weekly and nightly rates. Maria della Scala Hospital, who, over three elegant tiers – marble, brick
Loc. Cucinato, Ciciano, Chiusdino; 347 the years, redeveloped it substantially, and wood – in the 12th, 14th and
193 7052; www.poderedisantamaria.it turning it into an administrative centre 15th centuries respectively. Note
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 186 06/11/17 5:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
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