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POR TUGAL      351


       carry towering structures made   the Moorish stronghold of
       of 30 loaves of bread on their   Santarém. To commemorate the
       heads. They parade through the   victory, he gave land and
       main square, Praça da República.   money to build a church to the
       The square’s focal point is the   Cistercians. Completed in 1223,
       15th-century Gothic church of   the church is a beautiful
       São João Baptista. Tomar is also   building of austere simplicity.
       home to one of Portugal’s oldest   Portugal’s rulers continued to
       synagogues, now the Museu   endow the monastery, notably
       Luso-Hebraico de Abraham   King Dinis (1279–1325), who
       Zacuto, a Jewish museum.  added the main cloister, known
                           as the Cloister of Silence. In the
       R Convento de Cristo  Sala dos Reis, 18th-century tiles
       Tel 249-313 481. Open daily. Closed   depict the founding of the
       Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Dec 25. &  abbey, and statues of Portuguese
                           kings adorn the walls.
                             Among those buried here are
                           the tragic lovers King Pedro
                           (1357–67) and his murdered
                           mistress, Inês de Castro (d.1355),
                           whose tombs face each other   Manueline portal leading to the Unfinished
                           across the transept of the abbey   Chapels at Batalha
                           church. Inês’ death was ordered
                           by Pedro’s father, Afonso IV   UNESCO World Heritage site. The
                           (1325–57). After Afonso’s death,   pale limestone monastery was
                           Pedro had two of Inês’ murderers   built to celebrate João I’s historic
                           killed brutally. He then had her   victory at Aljubarrota in 1385.
                           body exhumed and reburied.  Today, the abbey still has military
                             One of Alcobaça’s most popular  significance: two unknown
       The Convento de Cristo, Tomar  features is the vast kitchen. Here   soldiers from World War I lie
                           whole oxen could be roasted    in the chapter house. João I,
                           on a spit inside the fireplace    his English wife, Philippa of
       5 Alcobaça          and a specially diverted stream   Lancaster, and their son, Henry
       Praça 25 de Abril, Alcobaça. Tel 262-  provided a constant water supply.  the Navigator, are also buried
       505 120. @ from Lisbon or Coimbra.      here, in the Founder’s Chapel.
       Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter,    6 Batalha     The abbey was begun in 1388
       May 1, Aug 20, Dec 25. &                and work continued for the next
       ∑ mosteiroalcobaca.pt  Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória,   two centuries. King Duarte,
                           Batalha. Tel 244-765 497. @ from   João’s son, began an octagonal
       The Mosteiro de Santa Maria de   Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de Mós & Fátima.   mausoleum for the royal house
       Alcobaça is Portugal’s largest   Open daily. Closed Jan 1, Easter Sun,   of Avis. The project was taken
       church and a UNESCO World   May 1, Dec 25. & (1st Sun in month).  up again, but then abandoned
       Heritage site. Founded in 1153,         by Manuel I. It is now known as
       the abbey is closely linked to the   The Dominican Abbey of Santa   the Unfinished Chapels. Much
       arrival of the Cistercian order in   Maria da Vitória at Batalha is a   of the decoration of the abbey
       Portugal in 1138, as well as to the  masterpiece of Portuguese   is in the Manueline style.
       birth of the nation. In March 1147,  Gothic architecture and a
       Afonso Henriques conquered















       The magnificent Gothic tomb of Pedro I in the transept of the monastery church at Alcobaça




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