Page 97 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 7: Normandy’s Wild West 95

Above left Bay near Mont-St-Michel Above
follow the path uphill past another t Avranches right La Merveille cloister at Mont-St-Michel
car park to the Grouin du Sud 2. Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50300
Follow the path to reach the little This appeal ing old town is located on
EAT AND DRINK
beaches either side of the jagged a rocky mound that towers above the
rocks. Climb down to the beach on bay. St Aubert, Bishop of Avranches,
GRANVILLE
the left and walk along it to rejoin the founded Mont-St-Michel in AD 708,
Le Phare moderate
footpath, and then follow it along the and his skull is preserved in the
One of the most enjoyable of the big
shore’s edge. Turn left away from the church of St-Gervais. seafood brasseries that line the harbour.
shore up a track between hedges to ª Follow signs for “Toutes Directions 11 rue du Port, 50400; 02 33 50 12 94;
rejoin the road. Looking back, there is – Mont-St-Michel” to leave Avranches closed Tue, Wed low season
another view of the inner bay across on rue General Patton. At the junction
MONT STMICHEL
to Avranches. The picnic area 3 near with the N175, take the D43E for Auberge St-Pierre
the parking offers the chance to take Pontaubault; turn off right onto the moderate–expensive
a short break. Turn right along the D113 for Céaux. Follow the road This place maintains high standards
road, and then left up a wooded path around the bay (later the D313 and and serves quality food.
16 Grande Rue, 50170; 02 33 60 14 03
marked “Chemin des Moines”. This D275) through Courtils to join the
path runs downhill to St-Léonard, a causeway to Mont-St-Michel. AROUND MONT STMICHEL
tiny cluster of farms and houses Chez François inexpensive–moderate
typical of the old stone villages y Mont-St-Michel Space at the long tables in this village
around the bay. Turn right up Rue Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50170 café-bistro, 25 km (15 miles) north of
the shrine, is often in great demand, so
des Chevaliers to the Prieuré St- Soaring up to its pinnacle spire from
make sure to book. Meats grilled in the
Léonard 4, a 11th-century chapel. out of the sea and sands, Mont-St-
giant fireplace are the attraction here.
From there, follow the road downhill Michel is an astonishing sight. It began 2 rue Jérémie, Genêts, 50530; 02 33 70
to rejoin the shore at La Chaussée 5; as a small hermitage, but deve loped 83 98; www.chezfrancois.fr; closed
turn left for a view of Mont-St-Michel into a major pilgrimage centre in the Wed, Thu
on the way back to the parking. 11th century. It is an extra ordinary L’Auberge du Terroir
ª Turn back up the same road from the feat of medieval engineer ing, as the moderate–expensive
Maison de la Baie, then right through abbey was built above rather than Chef Thierry Lefort presents some of
St-Léonard. Follow signs to Vains, and on top of the mount, resting on four the area’s most skilful cooking here,
15 km (9 miles) east of Mont-St-Michel.
then D911 to Marcey-les-Grèves and giant pillars, and other later buildings
3 place St-Martin, Servon, 50170;
uphill into Avranches on D973. Park in were added around it to form an 02 33 60 17 92; closed Wed, Thu and
Place Valhubert, by the tourist office. intricate labyrinth. Sat lunch
DAYTRIP OPTIONS Bayeux’s treasures enjoy the country side; take the D971
To get to the west Cotentin coast In a day, visitors to Bayeux 1 can see to Granville w for a seafood dinner.
from Caen, Bayeux and central the tapestry, the cathedral, Balleroy
Return on the D924 road to Villedieu-
Normandy, take the D572 road from 2 and the abbey of Cerisy 3. les-Poêles to join the A84 for Caen.
Bayeux through St-Lô and then the
From Cerisy, return to Bayeux through
D900 to Lessay, and from there turn The bay of Mont-St-Michel
Le Molay-Littry on the D15.
north to Barneville-Carteret. To go Drive around the bay and stop at the
straight to the bay of Mont-St-Michel, Beaches and bocage infor ma tion centres to learn about
take the A84 from Caen, but turn The beaches of Barneville-Carteret 5 the Abbey before reaching there.
right at Avranches onto the D973 are children’s favourite. From Take the D275 following signs for
Granville road for the north side of Coutances 9, drive to Hambye 0 Avranches, and then look for signs
the bay. and La Lucerne d’Outremer q to onto the A84 for Caen.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40