Page 122 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

120 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Chartres
Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28000
It is hard to decide which is the finest, but there is no doubt at all
that Chartres Cathedral is the most complete and majestic of all of
France’s great Gothic cathedrals, rising from the flat wheatfields of
the Beauce plain. Around it, the streets and squares of old Chartres
give a charming introduction to the life of a small French city.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de cathedral worked as a giant
Chartres is an extraordi- illustrated book, embodying
narily fortunate survivor. the Christian religion in
Remarkably, it escaped the stone and glass.
destruction wreaked else- Just beside the cathedral
where by religious wars, the on the north side, a restored
French Revolution and the medieval grain store houses
two World Wars. The Gothic the Centre International du
cathedral was built surpris- Vitrail (open daily), with a
ingly quickly after a fire stained-glass workshop, an
Statues on the
Above Magnificent stained-glass windows, destroyed most of an earlier exhibition on the cathedral
Royal Portal
Chartres Cathedral Below One of the stone Romanesque building in glass and displays of
bridges over the Eure river in the Old Town 1194, and was almost com- modern stained-glass.
of Chartres pleted by 1250. The main entrance, Behind the cathedral, the 17th-
known as the Royal Portal, and the century former Bishops’ Palace
VISITING CHARTRES bases of the two great towers are contains the Musée des Beaux-
the few surviving parts of the Arts (open Wed, Sat & Sun), with
Tourist information 12th-century cathedral, but each beautiful Renaissance tapestries,
Place de la Cathédrale, 28000; 02 37 18 tower looks different because they 18th-century furniture and some
26 26; www.chartres-tourisme.com
were rebuilt at different times, and modern paintings.
Parking the famous Gothic spire was added The streets of old Chartres are
The most easily accessible car parks for
the cathedral and Old Town are in to the north tower later, in the 16th interesting to explore, with venerable
Place Châtelet and Place des Épars. century. The intricacy of the carving timber and stone houses that have
all around the building is astonishing. sharply sloping roofs, and steep
Above all, Chartres has retained all narrow passageways called tertres
its original medieval stained glass leading down to the Eure river and
WHERE TO STAY windows. During both World Wars, the old artisan district or Basse Ville,
the windows were dismantled and where there is a lovely riverside walk
CHARTRES
stored in a safe location. They along Rue de la Tannerie. At the
Les Conviv’hôtes inexpensive present a staggering array of rich southern end of the Old Town, the
The two bed-and-breakfast rooms in
this pretty house are excellent value. colours and complex imagery, from Gothic abbey church of St-Pierre
10 rue de Pot Vert, 28000; 02 37 90 88 the giant rose windows to the side also has fine stained glass from
62; www.lesconvivhotes.com windows illustrating the lives of the the 14th century.
saints. At Chartres it is easy to Chartres puts on a spectacular
Hôtel Le Grand Monarque
moderate–expensive appreciate the way a medieval display every evening from early
This grand hotel has luxurious rooms
and a renowned restaurant.
22 place des Épars, 28000; 02 37 18 15
15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com
AROUND CHÂTEAUDUN
La Chesnaye inexpensive
A peaceful former farm with three
comfortable bed-and-breakfast rooms,
18 km (12 miles) north of Châteaudun.
2 La Chesnaye, Dangeau, 28160;
02 37 96 72 09; http://lachesnayedang
eau.free.fr
VENDÔME
Le Saint-Georges inexpensive
This hotel has comfortable rooms in
lively colours and exceptional facilities.
14 rue Poterie, 41100; 02 54 67 42 10;
www.hotel-saint-georges.com