Page 128 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

126 BACK ROADS FRANCE

i Cheverny o Chambord
Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41700 Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41250
Cheverny stands out among the The largest and most awe-inspiring
Renaissance châteaux nearby because of all the Loire châteaux, Chambord
of its elegant Louis XIII style. It is (open daily) was begun in 1519 for
opulently furnished throughout. The King François I. It is believed that
house (open daily) was also the inspi- parts of it were designed by
ration for the Château de Moulinsart Leonardo da Vinci, especially the
in the Tintin cartoons, and there is remarkable double-spiral staircase.
an interesting Tintin exhi bition in Everything is on a giant scale, from
the grounds. The area also has two the chambers to the fantastic
appellations contrôlées, Cheverny roofline of windows and chimneys.
and Cour-Cheverny, known for their The vast estate, the Domaine de
beautifully crisp white wines. Chambord, has lovely walks and
ª Turn left out of the château and cycle paths.
Above Façade of Château de Cheverny drive through Cour-Cheverny onto the ª From the château car park turn
Below Pont Jacques-Gabriel bridge across the D102 to Bracieux. Turn left to approach right and then left following signs for
Loire at Blois Chambord along the Grande Allée St-Dyé-sur-Loire. Once there, turn left
through its immense woodland park. to drive into Blois on the D951.

VISITING BLOIS p Blois
Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41000
Tourist information
23 place du Château, 41006; 02 54 90 Compact Blois is perhaps the ideal Loire Valley town. King Louis XII
41 41; www.bloispaysde brought his court here in 1498, making it a virtual “second capital”.
chambord.com Royal patronage attracted the nobility, wealthy merchants and fine
craftsmen, leaving the town with a special mix of historic architecture.
WHERE TO STAY
A two-hour walking tour St-Nicolas 2. Leaving the church,
CHEVERNY
Leave the car in the large car park turn right up Rue des Trois Marchands
Château du Breuil beneath Place Valin de la Vaissière, and to return to the stairway.
moderate–expensive
With its pepper-pot towers this mansion walk up into pretty Place Louis XII 1. Walk up the stairway beneath the
looks like a smaller version of the Turn left to leave the square below a towers of the Château de Blois, and
royal châteaux. raised row of old houses and enter at the top take another set of steps
Route de Fougères, 41700; 02 54 44 Rue St-Lubin, a charming old street, up to the Jardins de Lys et Fleurs
20 20; www.chateau-du-breuil.fr
now housing snug restaurants and Royales 3 and across to the Bastion
BLOIS trendy jewellery, fashion and crafts du Roi for a superb view of the châ-
La Petite Fugue inexpensive shops. Continue beyond Place Gaudet teau. Then walk down the ramp
Style and tranquillity are the keynotes until the street meets the steeply below the bastion and up another on
at this beautifully renovated old town climbing stairway of the Rampe des the right to enter Place du Château.
house on the river quay in Blois, with Fossés du Châteaux, on the right, but The Château Royal de Blois 4 (open
four rooms in subtly understated
colour schemes, two with river views. rather than climbing up immediately, daily) has a magnificent entrance on
9 quai du Foix, 41000; 02 54 78 42 95; turn left and then right for a look at the square, topped by a statue of
www.ptitefugue.fr the tranquil 12th-century Église King Louis XII on horseback. The châ-
teau has three separate wings: the late
Gothic one of Louis XII, a Renaissance-
style one added by François I and
another in Classical style added by
Gaston d’Orléans, brother of Louis XIV.
After exploring the château, leave
the square by the same route, but
turn right from the ramp to the
Jardins Augustin Thierry 5, backed
by the Baroque Église St-Vincent 6.
The park crosses the top of Rue de la
Porte du Côté, with a fine view across
the town to the cathedral. Head down
this street, but turn left down Rue
Chemonton, and right up Rue du