Page 126 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

124 BACK ROADS FRANCE

q Loches walk by the Indrois river with a
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37600 marvellous view of the château.
A gem of a small town, Loches has ª Take the D10 to Genillé and turn
a remarkable history. Its château right on the D764 Blois road for
(open daily) is one of the Loire Valley’s Montpoupon and its château.
oldest, begun by Foulques Nerra,
first Count of Anjou, around 988, and e Château de Montpoupon
its ruined keep has the dramatic feel Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37460
of a warrior fortress. It later became A spectacular approach on the road
a pri son and the cages in which from Loches sets the scene for this
famous prisoners were kept are gracious château, built in early
another high light. The keep and Renaissance style around 1480 but
the 15th-century Logis Royal are at comprehensively renovated in the
either end of a lovely walled hilltop 18th and 19th centuries (open daily
Old Town, the Cité Royale, which also Apr–Sep; Sat & Sun Feb–Mar, Oct–Dec). It is
contains the superb Romanesque privately owned and sumptu ously
and Gothic church of St-Ours. decorated, with luxurious bedrooms
ª From below the old town follow and a splendid kitchen, intimately
signs for Beaulieu-les-Loches and then evoking country-house life in the early
Montrésor on the D760. 20th century. The impressive stables
contain a museum, the Musée du
Above View of the grand château at Amboise w Montrésor Veneur, on horses and hunting.
Below Picture-book village of Montrésor Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37460 ª Follow the D764 towards Blois
The gorgeous village of Montrésor has and Montrichard.
a stately château (open daily Apr–Oct,
Sat & Sun Nov–Mar), which was founded r Montrichard
WHERE TO STAY in 1005 by Foulques Nerra of Anjou. It Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41400
was rebuilt in the Renaissance style Visitors experience another
LOCHES
around 1500. In the 19th century it spectacular approach when they cross
Hotel Beaulieu moderate was bought by the exiled Polish count, the stone bridge on the Cher river to
An authentic but quirky hotel with Xavier Branicki. The châ teau still retains Montrichard. The small town is laid out
a good-value, in-house restaurant,
this place hosts its guests in rooms the opulent Second Empire decor he in the classic way of Loire valley towns,
situated in its 16th-century inn. The installed, and an unusual art collec tion with old streets winding beneath the
interior decor is comfy, if a little plain. reflecting the eclectic interests of his imposing keep or donjon of its 11th-
3 rue Foulques Nerra, 37600; 02 47 91 family. The village also has a refined century castle. Partly restored, the
60 80; www.hoteldebeaulieu.fr
Gothic church and there is a beautiful castle contains museums on local
MONTRÉSOR
Le Moulin de Montrésor moderate
Montrésor’s 19th-century mill now
contains four charming rooms.
Montrésor, 37460; 02 47 92 68 20;
www.moulindemontresor.fr
CHENONCEAUX
La Renaudière moderate
This 18th-century house with garden
has a nicely relaxed feel.
24 rue de Dr Bretonneau, 37150; 02 47
23 90 04; www.renaudiere.com
AMBOISE
Manoir Les Minimes moderate
Rooms are luxurious in this elegantly
restored 18th-century mansion.
34 quai Charles Guinot, 37400; 02 47
30 40 40; www.manoirlesminimes.
com; closed mid-Nov–Dec
CHAUMONTSURLOIRE
Hostellerie du Château moderate
This is a pleasant traditional Logis hotel.
2 rue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny,
41150; 02 54 20 98 04; www.
hostellerie-du-chateau.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150