Page 123 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 121

April to late September in Chartres
en Lumières when, from nightfall
until after midnight, the cathedral,
the abbey church of St-Pierre, the
museum and other historic buildings
are brilliantly illuminated in subtly
changing colours and images evo-
king their past. The view of Chartres
Cathedral from across the flat plains
is a beautiful sight and a must-see for
visitors. It is best viewed from the
Orléans road to the south.
ª In Place des Épars, in Chartres’ ring
of boulevards, take the exit signed for
Le Mans, but be ready to turn left
shortly onto the D921, signed only to
Illiers, for Illiers-Combray.
2 Illiers-Combray Above left Carved angel on Chartres
Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28120 Cloyes-sur-le-Loir. Once there, look for Cathedral Above right Imposing château
The little town of Illiers was the home a right turn onto the D8 (1) when of Châteaudun
of the aunt of the writer Marcel Proust, leaving Cloyes for La Ville-aux-Clercs.
who spent many childhood holidays This road then becomes the D24.
here and evoked it as “Combray” in Drive through the Forêt de Fréteval,
his novel In Search of Lost Time. So still on the D24, to Danzé. When
identified has it become with its leaving Danzé, turn left onto the D36
fictional double that it is now known for Vendôme.
as Illiers-Combray. His aunt’s modest
house, the Maison de Tante Léonie 4 Vendôme
(open mid-Jan–mid-Dec Tue–Sun), is Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41100
now a charming museum, and The road becomes much more
nearby are the Pré-Catelan gardens, wooded as visitors approach this
designed by Proust’s uncle. appealing town. Vendôme was an
ª From the centre of Illiers follow important pilgrimage stop on the
signs for Dangeau and Châteaudun way to Compostela in Spain. Counts
onto the D941, and at Logron turn of Vendôme were important figures
left on the D955. In Châteaudun, from the early Middle Ages. The EAT AND DRINK
follow signs for “Centre Ville” and town’s 13th-century castle is an
park in Place du 18 Octobre, by the imposing ruin on a lofty crag, and CHARTRES
tourist office. the Loir river runs through the Le Serpente inexpensive–moderate
middle of Vendôme in a series of A traditional brasserie-style restaurant
3 Châteaudun canals and placid streams, forming a with a varied menu including an
Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28200 lovely mirror to its stone and half- imaginative list of salads.
2 cloître Notre-Dame, 28000; 02 37 21
On the edges of the Beauce plain timbered buildings. Travellers can
68 81; http://leserpente.com
and the Loir Valley, Châteaudun is also discover many medieval relics,
Le Bistrot de la Cathédrale moderate
presided over by its massive château such as the 14th-century Porte d’Eau
This stylish modern restaurant has an
(open daily). Much of it, including a or water gate across one of the
ideal view of Chartres Cathedral. It
beautiful Gothic chapel with rare river’s channels. The town’s greatest serves various light dishes and there
mural paintings, was built by Jean treasure is the beautiful church of La is a menu terroir featuring many rich
Dunois (1403–68), illegitimate Trinité, which was founded in 1034. local specialities.
1 cloître Notre-Dame, 28000; 02 37 36
brother of the Duke of Orléans and Only the bell tower survives from the
59 60; http://bistrotchartres.wordpress.
comrade-in-arms of Joan of Arc. original structure. During the 16th
com; closed Wed
His descen dants added one of the century, an elaborate flamboyant
earliest Renaissance staircases to a Gothic façade was added to it. VENDÔME
French château, in 1508. Around the ª From below Vendôme château Le Moulin du Loir
castle is an Old Town with many fine follow signs for Montoire onto the inexpensive–moderate
16th-century houses. D917. Stay on this road south of the An airy restaurant in a riverside mill,
with a brasserie-style menu.
ª From Place du 18 Octobre, take river for the best views approaching
21–23 rue du Change, 41100; 02 54 67
“Autres Directions”, then the N10 for Les Roches-l’Évêque, where the road 13 51; www.le-moulin-du-loir.com;
for Tours. Turn right onto the D35 to turns left towards Montoire. closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40