Page 124 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

122 BACK ROADS FRANCE

workshops. The Cave-Exposition des
Amis de Trôo (open daily Apr–Nov) is a
little museum of cave-village life.
Leaving Trôo, cross over to the
valley’s south side for a splendid
view of the villages along the north
flank. Near Couture-sur-Loir is La
Possonnière, a gracious manor house
with a gorgeous garden that was once
the home of Pierre Ronsard, the
Renaissance poet.
ª Cross the Loir below Trôo on the D8
Ternay road, but turn right onto the
D10 for Couture-sur-Loir and La
Possonnière. From Couture take the
Above Clifftop château of Chinon Below D57 to rejoin the main valley road (now
Vineyards near Bourgueil 5 Montoire-sur-le-Loir the D305) at Poncé, and turn left. At La
Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41800 Chartre-sur-le-Loir, turn right in the
WHERE TO STAY The villages along the north side direction of Château-du-Loir on the
of the Loir valley are among the D256, which then becomes the D305.
AROUND MONTOIRESURLELOIR region’s oldest and there is a dra- Before Château-du-Loir (24 km/15
Domaine de Saint Eloy inexpensive matic approach to the fortified Les miles), turn right at the roundabout
Three comfortable bed-and-breakfast Roches-l’Évêque. Montoire-sur-le- onto the D338. In Château-du-Loir, turn
rooms – one in a cave – situated 3 km Loir con tains the tiny, half-hidden left in the direction of Le Lude/La Flèche.
(2 miles) to the east of Montoire. Chapelle St-Gilles, with 11th- and
Route des Reclusages, Lavardin, 41800;
02 54 72 65 38 14th-century murals. Drive south 7 Le Lude
on the well-signposted D108 to Sarthe, Pays-de-la-Loire; 72800
TRÔO Lavardin, a gorgeous village of stone Le Lude’s château (open daily mid-Jun–
B&B Cave inexpensive and caves nestling beneath a ruined Aug, Thu–Tue Apr–mid-Jun and Sep,
This place has some of the most castle, which crowns a steep hill. gardens all day, château evenings) is a
charming cave dwellings imaginable Lavardin is home to the wonderfully historic fortress that was rebuilt
in one of Trôo’s fascinating cave-houses.
Escalier St-Gabriel, 41800; 02 54 72 50 serene 11th-century chapel of around 1500 for Jacques de Daillon, a
34; www.bandbcave.com St-Genest, entirely decorated with courtier of King François I, and altered
exquisite early medieval frescoes. again for new owners in the 18th
AROUND LE LUDE
ª Return to Montoire to rejoin the century. It can appear like two differ-
Auberge du Port des Roches D917 for Trôo. ent châteaux in one, with the massive
moderate
With just 12 cosy rooms, this modest towers of the French Renaissance
little hotel, 10 km (6 miles) north of Le 6 Trôo façade facing the town, and a contrast-
Lude, exudes a lot of charm. Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41800 ing 18th-century Neo-Classical façade
Luché-Pringé, 72800; 02 43 45 44 48; Trôo is the most complete and most overlooking the fine gardens.
www.logis-de-france.fr
fascinating of the Loir Valley’s cave ª Leave Le Lude on the D307, which
AROUND BOURGUEIL villages. Far from being historical relics, becomes the D767 in Maine-et-Loire
La Dixmeresse moderate its cave-dwellings are in big demand before Noyant. Next follow signs for
Elegantly modernized 1830s bed-and- as homes, holiday gîtes and artists’ Breil onto the D141. Drive on through
breakfast. Excellent table d’höte in
15th-century barn on request.
12 Grande Rue, Restigné, 37140; 02 47
93 90 34; http://la-dixmeresse-en-
touraine.fr
CHINON
Hôtel Diderot moderate
Rooms at this friendly small hotel are
furnished in an old-world style.
4 rue de Buffon, 37500; 02 47 93 18 87;
www.hoteldiderot.com
AZAYLERIDEAU
Troglododo moderate
The hotel has three chic cave-rooms in
a 16th-century vineyard farm.
9 chemin des Caves, 37190; 02 47 45
31 25; www.troglododo.fr
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150