Page 127 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 125

history and archaeology (open daily u Chaumont-sur-Loire
Apr–Sep). Beside it is the Romanesque Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41150
church of Ste-Croix, originally the Chaumont is known for its picture-
castle chapel. book castle, the Château de
ª Turn left after crossing the Cher river Chaumont (open daily), whose massive
onto the D176 for Chenonceaux. pinnacle-roofed turrets soar up on a
bluff above the Loire. It was built for
t Chenonceaux the Dukes of Amboise between 1465
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37150 and 1510. In 1560, it was bought by
Chenonceaux is a popular destination Queen Cathérine de Médicis, who
because of the grand Château de installed her rival, Diane de Poitiers,
Chenonceau (open daily). Unlike other here. Diane’s bedchamber is one of
Loire châteaux, this one was created its most attractive rooms.
according to the wishes of powerful Every year the Château de Above Celebrated royal château of
women, notably King Henri II’s mis- Chaumont hosts a dazzling Festival Chenonceaux Below Giant turrets of Château
tress Diane de Poitiers and his widow, Inter national des Jardins (late-Apr–mid- de Chaumont
Cathérine de Médicis. The wooded Oct), when different designers are
approach to the park, and the famous invited to create inventive gardens.
gallery across the Cher river, create an ª Continue on the D751 road to
impression of match less grandeur. Its Candé-sur-Beuvron. Turn right on the
rooms include the bedchambers of D7 to Les Montils. At Les Montils, take
many queens and royal mistresses. the D77 in the direction of Seur. At
ª Turn left out of the château towards Seur, take the right turn onto the D61
Tours. In Civray-de-Touraine turn right towards Chitenay/Contres. At EAT AND DRINK
onto the D81 for Amboise, through the Chitenay, take the C9, and then the
Forêt d’Amboise. Follow signs for the D956 towards Cormeray. Two kilo- LOCHES
château and park beside the Loire. metres (1 mile) after Cormeray, take La Galerie B inexpensive–moderate
the left turn for Cour Cheverny onto A good, modestly priced restaurant,
y Amboise the D52 road and then the D102. described as “rustico-tendance” by
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37530 pundits, serving up modern rural cuisine.
26–28 Grande Rue, 37600; 02 36 05 45
The grand château (open daily) in the Diane and Catherine
32; www.restaurant-lagalerieb.fr;
Old Town of Amboise is a delight to Diane de Poitiers (1499–1566) was closed Nov–Jan
visit. The favourite residence of King one of the most influential figures at
Charles VIII, this was the first royal the court of Henri II. Twenty years MONTRÉSOR
château on the Loire to be converted older than Henri, she was appointed Café de la Ville inexpensive–moderate
from a medi eval fort ress into a to teach the young prince manners, This bar-restaurant has a fine view of
but later became the king’s mist ress. the castle, and a menu that is a mix of
Gothic palace, with later monarchs
He adored her, and as king even traditional and modern.
adding Italian Renaissance architec- 28 Grande Rue, 37460; 02 47 92 75 31;
consulted her on official business.
ture. In 1516, King François I enticed Chenonceau was given to her as a open Fri, Sat, Mon–Thu lunch
Leonardo da Vinci to France and personal residence. This was predict- MONTRICHARD
gave him the nearby Clos Lucé ably resented by his Italian queen
manor house (open daily), where the Cathérine de Médicis (1519–89), and Le Bellevue moderate–expensive
This comfortable restaurant offers a
artist died in 1519. when Henri was killed while joust ing great riverside view and refined food.
ª Drive on past the château on the she wasted no time in seizing 16 quai du Cher, 41400; 02 54 32 06 17;
Chenonceau for herself and
D751 along the south bank of the www.hotel-le-bellevue41.com; closed
expelling Diane to Chaumont. Fri, Oct–Apr
Loire to Chaumont.
CHENONCEAUX
Le Relais Chenonceaux moderate
This friendly restaurant has a relaxed
approach, and good crêpes and salads.
10 rue du Dr Bretonneau, 37150; 02 47
23 98 11; www.relais-chenonceaux.fr;
closed Dec–mid-Feb
AMBOISE
Chez Bruno inexpensive
An enjoyable terrace restaurant, this
place serves tasty salads and larger
dishes to go with its very fine
wine selection.
40 place Michel Debré, 37400; 02 47 57
73 49; closed Sun dinner, Mon, Jan