Page 125 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 123

Parçay-les-Pins and Gizeux towards
Bourgueil. The road then becomes the
D749. At Marcé, cross the D35 down
Rue Raymond Garrit to Bourgueil.
8 Bourgueil
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37140
The road southwards runs through
the beech forest around Gizeux to the
vineyards of one of the Loire’s prime
areas for red wines, with the adjacent
appellations contrôlées of Bourgueil
and St-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil. The
wine cellars or caves of the Loire are Above left Frescoes in the chapel of St-
real caves, and one contains the Cave Orléans. Ongoing archaeological work Genest in Lavardin Above right Façade of the
du Pays du Bourgueil (open daily Apr– at the castle has led to many new dis- impressive Château du Lude Below left
mid-Nov, Sat & Sun mid-Nov–Mar), a coveries. Below the château, old Charming château of Azay-le-Rideau
lively wine museum. Follow signs to Chinon is a huddle of medieval streets
nearby Restigné, a clas sic wine coun- and is also the centre of an appellation
try village, with fine vineyards such as contrôlée. Wine caves can be found all
Domaine de la Chevalerie (open daily). around old Chinon, such as the Couly-
ª Take the D749 out of Bourgueil to Dutheuil vineyard, which is right oppo-
cross the Loire, and follow signs to site the château. The great satirist and
Chinon. Turn uphill from the river bon viveur François Rabelais (1483–
following signs to the château, and 1553) was born at La Devinière, south
park by the main entrance. of Chinon. He has become a symbol of
the town and the region, which is
sometimes called La Rabelaisie. EAT AND DRINK
ª Stay on the same road past the
MONTOIRESURLELOIR
château to meet the D751 Tours road
Le Manoir de St Quentin moderate
to the château of Azay-le-Rideau.
A well-placed restaurant in an
18th-century stone house, between
0 Azay-le-Rideau the caves at Troo and Montoire.
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37190 Popular, with a touch of Asia in the
A classic of French Renaissance style, cuisine. Book ahead. Bourg de St
Quentin, Saint Quentin Les Troo,
the château of Azay-le-Rideau (open
41800; 02 54 77 54 96; www.
daily) sits like a jewel within its placid
lemanoirdesaintquentin.com; closed
moat. It was begun in 1515 for Gilles mornings Mon & Tue, Sun evening
Berthelot, treasurer to King François I,
by his wife Philippa Lesbahy. However, TRÔO
it was confiscated by the king in 1527 Hôtel du Cheval Blanc expensive
when he accused Berthelot of corrup- Hearty and meaty fresh local cooking
is the mainstay at this friendly hotel.
tion. The interior is delightful and there 47 rue Auguste Arnault, 41800; 02 54
is a famous portrait of Gabrielle 72 58 22; www.hotel-restaurant-troo.fr
9 Chinon d’Estrées, mistress of King Henri IV. A LE LUDE
Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37500 short way from Azay is the Château de
Auberge des Îles
Chinon is one of the most historically Saché, a stout 16th-century manor
moderate–expensive
enthralling of Loire Valley towns. Most that was the country retreat of the
This traditional restaurant near the
of its fierce-looking clifftop château writer Balzac, and is now the Musée château has a riverside terrace.
(open daily) was built in the 1150s for Balzac (open daily Apr–Sep, Wed–Mon 8 rue des Ponts, 72800; 02 43 94 63 25;
Henry II, King of England, who made it Oct–Mar). The marshy Sologne region closed Tue dinner, Wed
his stronghold as he simultaneously to the east is full of tranquil old vil-
BOURGUEIL
ruled over England, Normandy, Anjou lages, such as Louans and Le Louroux. Le Moulin Bleu
and Aquitaine. During the Hundred ª Take the D84 to La Sablonnière and inexpensive–moderate
Years’ War, Dauphin Charles of France turn right to Saché. Turn left on the D17, In a 15th-century mill with a terrace
took refuge in Chinon, and first met then right onto the D19. After Louans, overlooking vineyards, this pretty place
serves enjoyable Touraine specialities –
Joan of Arc here in 1429. She con- turn right on the D50, direction Le
pork, duck and excellent wines.
vinced him to provide her with an Louroux. Drive through Manthelan,
7 route du Moulin Bleu, 37140; 02 47 97
army to help drive the English out of and turn left at the roundabout onto 73 13; www.lemoulinbleu.com; closed
France, and she defeated them at the D760 towards Loches. Tue dinner, Wed, Sun dinner Nov–Mar
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40