Page 177 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 15: The Dordogne: Source to Sea 175

sample wine, or simply stroll around to Britain. The quays are lively with
its streets, in places paved with slabs cafés, worth visiting especially on
of granite said to have come from market days.
Cornwall as ballast for ships that had ª Continue along the D670 and at
trans ported wine. Medieval houses St-André-de-Cubzac take the D669 to
still line the narrow streets of the Bourg-sur-Gironde.
town. The golden limestone crown
of St-Émilion seems almost to shine f Bourg-sur-Gironde
with light. The great architectural Gironde, Aquitaine; 33710
treasure here is Europe’s largest Bourg-sur-Gironde was once located
mono lithic church, the Église de on the estuary of Gironde, but now
Saint-Émilion, a huge underground alluvial deposits have extended the
carved chamber and a 14th-century spit of land between the Garonne
portal, hewn from soft limestone. and the Dordogne, and the town
There are great views of the vine- is now actually on the Dordogne.
yards from the top of the bel ltower. Bourg is a quiet little place with a
ª Retrace the route to the D670, turn big quayside, a park around the
right and continue to Libourne. citadel and lots of artists’ galleries.
Continue a little further following Above Boats in the harbour of Bourg-sur-Gironde
d Libourne signs to Château d’Yquem to see Below Charming rooftops of St-Émillion
Gironde, Aquitaine; 33500 the end of the river at Bec d’Ambes,
Libourne is the next port along the the tip of the promontory known to EAT AND DRINK
river. It was built as a bastide by the wine lovers as Entre-deux-Mers. Here
English, and evidence of this can the Dordogne meets the Garonne TRÉMOLAT
still be seen in its town gates and to form the Gironde estuary. The Bistrot d’en Face moderate
arcaded streets. It was an important river is wide and glittering, the light Hearty bistro fare such as sausages
wine-trading port; from here the is dazzling, and if the smell of ripe and confit de canard is available in this
rustic bistro where Claude Chabrol
wines of the region were shipped all grapes were not so strong visitors filmed his classic, Le Boucher (1970).
over northern Europe and especially might even smell the sea. Trémolat, 24510; 05 53 22 80 69;
closed Mon, Tue between Oct–Apr.
BERGERAC
L’Imparfait moderate
This is an intimate, friendly restaurant
housed in 12th-century cloisters in
the old town of Bergerac. Regional
classics are served with the best
Bergerac wine.
8 rue Fontaines, 24100; 05 53 57 47 92;
www.imparfait.com; open daily
STÉMILION
L’Envers du Décor inexpensive
Sample a great selection of St-Émilion
and other local wines in this central
wine bar and restaurant, and try local
dishes or simple omelettes and salads.
11 rue du Clocher, 33330; 05 57 74 48 31

DAYTRIP OPTIONS From Le Mont-Dore take the D983 to Riverside vineyards
With Le Mont-Dore (on the D983), Puy de Sancy. From Bergerac a to the mouth of
Mauriac (on the D678) and Bergerac the Dordogne river, there are many
Mauriac and the gorges
(on the D660) as bases, the drive can vineyards to explore and numerous
Mauriac 5 is a good base to explore
be divided into sections. wine tastings on offer. Consult the
some of the amazing gorges of the
Breathtaking views Dordogne and admire its famous Maison des Vins in Bergerac for tours
dams, such as Bort-les-Orgues 4 and visit the numerous caves and
Enjoy views of the Auvergne from
and the Barrage d’Aigle 6. surrounding vineyards of St-Émilion.
the Puy de Sancy 1. Then head
along the D983 to Le Mont-Dore 2 From Mauriac take the D678 and D105 From Bergerac take the D936 to St-Foy-
or La Bourboule, where visitors can to the Pont de St-Projet and follow the le-Grande, continuing along the D936
relax and indulge in a spa treatment. Route des Ajustants to Bort-les-Orgues. and the D670 to St-Émilion.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40