Page 176 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

174 BACK ROADS FRANCE

a Bergerac
Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24100
Bergerac, which was under English
rule during the Hundred Years’ War,
was one of the main destinations for
river traffic in the past, and is now
the centre of a thriving wine region.
Visitors can still see the boatmen’s
houses in the narrow medieval streets
of this charming Old Town. Explore
the quiet, shady squares and visit the
Musée de Batellerie (open daily Jun–
Sep; Tue–Fri and Sat am Oct–Mar; Tue–Sat
and Sun pm Apr–May) which houses a
whole range of exhibits, including
photographs, explaining the various
types of riverboats and how they
were constructed. On the quay side is
Above Façade of the 16th-century Maison the 16th-century cloister, which now
des Vins in Bergerac Below Dordogne river p Trémolat houses the Maison des Vins, and
looping past fields near Trémolat Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24558 where barrels of wine were once
Head to Trémolat for a superb view of stored for ship ping. Note the flood
ACTIVITIES IN TRÉMOLAT the Dordogne, and the great loops, measure ments in the wall. Visitors
known as cingles, for which the river can easily understand why the river-
Mairie de Trémolat is famous. There are various view- side houses needed steep roofs to
Le Bourg, 24510; 05 53 22 80 17; www.
pays-de-bergerac.com/mairie/tremolat points from which to enjoy them; the store essentials when the river was in
Rocamadou belvédère is among the flood. Today, the cloister plays host to
most popular. The cingles can be exhi bitions and concerts during
WINE TASTING IN BERGERAC
AND STÉMILION seen clearly from here, curving around summer. After Bergerac, the Dordogne
fields planted in wedges like a giant heads to the sea, grow ing even
Maison des Vins (Conseil brown-and-green dartboard. The little wider as it approaches the estuary.
Interprofessionnel des Vins de la village of Trémolat has a Romanesque ª Take the D32 out of town and at Le
Région de Bergerac) church, the Église Saint-Nicholas, Fleix, turn left onto the D20 for Ste-
1 rue des Récollets, Bergerac, 24100;
05 53 63 57 57; www.vins-bergerac.fr which has restored frescoes. Trémolat Foy-la-Grande. Cross the river to enter
has many leisure and sporting acti- Ste-Foy. Turn right onto the D936 and
Tourist Office of St-Émilion
Jurisdiction vities to offer, such as mountain at Ste-Pey-d’Armens turn right onto
Le Doyenné, place des Créneaux, biking and canoeing. From Trémolat, the D670 and then turn right onto the
St-Émilion, 33330; 05 57 55 28 28; the Dordogne continues towards the D122 to St-Émilion.
www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com sea, widen ing out between banks of
fruit and walnut trees and vines. s St-Émilion
WHERE TO STAY ª Cross the river on the D31, and Gironde, Aquitaine; 33330
then take the D28 to Calès. Turn right This is wine country now, and the
BERGERAC onto the D29 at Calès. Recross the river names become even more legend-
La Flambée moderate at Lalinde, turn left onto the D703, then ary. St-Émilion should not be missed,
Peaceful, tasteful hotel set in parkland. take the D660 to Bergerac. a wonderful place for lunch, to
Route de Périgueux, 49 avenue
Marceau-Fevry, 24100; 05 53 57 52 33;
www.laflambee.com
AROUND BERGERAC
Château des Merles expensive
Housed in a 19th-century château
near Bergerac, the rooms are stylish.
Tulières, Mouleydier, 24520; 05 53 63
13 42; www.lesmerles.com
BOURGSURGIRONDE
Château de la Grave moderate
This is a luxurious bed-and-breakfast
in a turreted 16th-century château.
Bourg-sur-Gironde, 33710; 05 57 68 41
49; www.chateaudelagrave.com;
closed Nov–Mar
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150