Page 174 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

172 BACK ROADS FRANCE

t Domme
Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24250
The fortified village of Domme offers
a wonderful panorama of the
Dordogne from its clifftop position.
Founded in 1281, the town saw many
upheavals through the Hundred
Years’ War and later the Wars of
Religion. It retains its defensive struc-
ture with the two stone towers of the
Porte des Tours guarding the town’s
entrance. Domme is a classic bastide
(fortified town) with streets in a
geometric pattern round the market
square and little alleys between the
houses. The cliff beneath the village
is riddled with caves which can be u Beynac-et-Cazenac
visited. During World War II, the caves Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24220
provided hiding places for members A little further downstream is Beynac-
of the Resistance. et-Cazenac, a fortified village clinging
ª Leave the village on the D46 and to a precipice above the river, and clus-
cross the river and turn left onto the tered around the Château de Beynac
D703 to reach La Roque-Gageac. (open daily Jan–Oct and school Christmas
holidays). In 1827, the communes of
Above Row of houses in La Roque-Gageac y La Roque-Gageac Beynac and Cazenac were merged to
Above right Ornate windows of a house in Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24250 form this vil lage. The château is a
Domme Below Grand and majestic château La Roque-Gageac is a village strung favourite film set, used for Luc Besson’s
at Beynac-et-Cazenac along the cliffside, appearing as if 1999 The Messenger: The Story of Joan
it has simply morphed out of the of Arc. It has an atmospheric interior,
stone. The golden-hued houses of with its great halls, towers and fres-
WHERE TO STAY this sleepy little village are reflected coed chapel, lit with torches and fur-
serenely in the water, but it was once nished with wooden chests. The
DOMME an impor tant port bustling with boat- ongo ing restoration work is equally
L’Esplanade moderate men and merchants. Visitors can still authen tic; young men hammer stones
Ask for a room with a view in this see the riverside houses with their into mortar, a method unchanged
fabulous hotel overlooking the ground-floor cellars constructed for since the château was built.
Dordogne. Enjoy the vistas from the storage of goods waiting to be trans- ª Retrace the route on the D703 until
dining room, and try the rich local
delicacies, such as lamb and foie gras. ported downriver. Today, pleasure the right turn onto the D57 to cross
2 rue Pontcarral, Le Bourg, 24250; trips are offered in traditional gabares. the river. Turn right onto the D53 to
05 53 28 31 41; www.esplanade- ª Continue along the D703 to arrive visit the two very special châteaux
perigord.com
at Beynac-et-Cazenac. at Castelnaud.
BEYNACETCAZENAC
Manoir de la Malatrie
moderate–expensive
This elegant manor house hotel,
decorated in typical 19th-century
French style, has views of the
Dordogne river from the terrace.
Excellent breakfasts are available.
Vézac, 24220; 05 53 29 03 51;
www.chambresdhotes-lamalatrie.com
CADOUIN
Manoir de Bellerive expensive
This hotel is housed in a splendid
manor house built by Napoleon III,
with a galleried entrance and huge
staircase. Rooms are luxurious and
service is atten tive. There is a restaurant
with special ities such as Quercy lamb.
Route de Siorac, Le Buisson de Cadouin,
24480; 05 53 22 16 16; www.
bellerivehotel.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150