Page 172 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

170 BACK ROADS FRANCE

0 Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne Then take the D14 further south to
Corrèze, Limousin; 19120 Castelnau-Bretenoux.
The Dordogne river is broader and
more stately here, winding across q Château de
limestone country to the alluvial Castelnau-Bretenoux
plain, and fields of straw berries, Lot, Limousin; 46130
maize and the first vines. Beaulieu The Château de Castelnau-Bretenoux
is a fine town, with two strawberry (open daily Apr–Sep; closed Tue Oct–Mar),
crops a year (the thin an imposing keep of dra-
gariguette in spring, and the matic red lime stone that
fragrant maras de bois later in dominates the skyline, is
the year), and a magnificent surrounded by an immacu-
abbey. The town nestles in a lately restored village with
loop of the river, here running houses of the same red stone.
Above Charming house in Beaulieu-sur- shallow over gravel. Visitors can The castle was originally built
Dordogne Below Busy market scene in front see the walls of the original during the 13th century with
of Église Abbatiale Sainte-Marie, Sarlat monastery, fine stone buildings three main buildings around
and wood-framed houses with an inter nal courtyard and
WHERE TO STAY overhanging eaves. was remod elled in the
Beaulieu was on the pilgrimage 15th century. It is filled with
BEAULIEUSURDORDOGNE route of Santiago de Compostela, medieval sculp tures and a
and the Romanesque Gothic huge variety of fur niture and
Les Charmilles inexpensive
This is a hotel with a terrace restaurant Église Abbatiale St-Pierre still objets d’art.
on the banks of the Dordogne. has relics from those days. ª Continue on the D14
20 boulevard Saint Rodolphe; 05 55 91 There is a fantastically carved until arriving at a junction.
29 29; www.auberge-charmilles.com; doorway. The tympanum Turn right onto the D30
closed mid-Oct–Mar
depicts the Last Judgment, which becomes the D20;
Manoir de Beaulieu moderate complete with the dead lift- Carved church fork right onto the D43 for
A recently renovated traditional hotel
on the main square, this has antique ing the stones of their tombs. column, Beaulieu the next stop, Carennac.
furniture, an open wood fire in the bar, The supporting columns are
a restaurant and a swimming pool. carved with figures bent under the w Carennac
4 place Champs de Mars ; 05 55 91 01 weight of the tym panum, their bodies Lot, Limousin; 46110
34; www.hotelbeaulieudordogne.com
elegantly elongated to fit the space. Carennac, a monastic village on the
AROUND CARENNAC ª Cross the river again and follow riverside which grew up around a
the D940 southwards to Bretenoux. 12th-century priory, has been quite
La Farga moderate
This bed-and-breakfast in the village of
Carennac, next to the river, has a
terrace, garden and heated pool.
A table d’hote is available every day.
Le Bourg, 46110; 05 65 33 18 97;
www.lafarga.wordpress.com
Moulin du Goth moderate
On the route between Carennac and
Souillac and housed in a restored 13th-
century watermill, it has a large garden.
Creysse, 46600; 05 65 32 26 04;
www.moulindugoth.com
AROUND SOUILLAC
Château de la Treyne expensive
About 7 km (4 miles) from Souillac, this
magnificent white château is set in
parkland above the river. Tennis and
canoeing facilities are available.
Lacave, 46200; 05 65 27 60 60;
www.chateaudelatreyne.com
Le Pont de l’Ouysse expensive
Located 11 km (7 miles) from Souillac,
Le Pont de l’Ouysse is not far from the
caves of Lacave. Enjoy an atmos phere
of casual luxury and superb food.
Lacave, 46200; 05 65 37 87 04;
www.lepontdelouysse.fr; closed
Nov–Mar
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150