Page 173 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 15: The Dordogne: Source to Sea 171

beautifully restored, and is a favourite
location for weddings. Within its
walls of soft ochre limestone is an
extra ordinary ensemble of rooftops,
the slate of the mountains now giv-
ing way to terracotta tiles. Stop by
the fine 16th-century Château des
Doyens and the Église St-Pierre with
a superbly carved tympanum. There
are Romanesque and Gothic clois-
ters, and a chapterhouse with a
collection of 15th-century statuary.
ª Follow the D43, then turn right onto
the D840 to cross the river at Gluges,
where there are views from Belvédère
de Copeyre. Once across the river, turn
left onto the D43, then left onto the
D23, which becomes the D14 after
Creysse. Turn right onto the D15, left
onto the D96 to Pinsac and then right
onto the D43 to reach Souillac.
Disposable Boats Above left Cascading petunias adding colour
From the Middle Ages onwards r Sarlat to a medieval building in Sarlat Above right
there was a huge demand for Corrèze, Limousin; 24200 Gothic cloisters of the Église St-Pierre in
timber from the upper Dordogne, One of the first towns in France to Carennac Below Red limestone house in
in particular for the oak casks be protected for its architecture, Castelnau-Bretenoux
required for wine. Floating the tim- Sarlat is a gorgeous ensemble of
ber down, however, was hazardous Renaissance and medieval buildings
and damaging to the wood, so an where visitors can really get a feel
ingenious idea arose: boats, named of the past. Discover the narrow
courpets, were built to carry the cask lanes, arched passages and fine
wood, and then they were simply town houses of richly carved ochre
broken up and sold for fire wood at
stone, the Place de la Liberté, the
the journey’s end, or reused for
Cathédrale St-Sacerdos and the
building houses. The crew then Bishops’ Palace. Sarlat is famous for
returned home on foot.
its markets and shopping. Make sure
not to miss the Église Sainte-Marie,
e Souillac renovated in 2001 by architect Jean
Lot, Limousin; 46200 Nouvel. Now used as a marketplace,
Souillac is situated in the Périgord, it is one of the best places to buy foie
where the river makes great shining gras, the local delicacy.
loops through a rich green land, with ª Take the D46 southwards and
EAT AND DRINK
fairy-tale châteaux domi nating the cross the river at Vitrac, to Domme.
limestone cliffs above and poplars
SOUILLAC
shading the banks. Souillac is worth
La Vieille Auberge moderate
a visit for its very special Église
This is an old riverside inn serving local
Abbatiale Sainte-Marie with its three
delicacies such as truffles and
enormous cupolas visible against the artichokes stuffed with foie gras.
skyline. Much restoration work has 1 rue de la Récège, 46200; 05 65 32 79
been done here, after the depreda- 43; www.la-vieille-auberge.com; closed
mid-Nov–mid-Feb
tions of the Wars of Religion in the
16th century. A notable example is SARLAT
the entrance door, now protected La Madeleine moderate
inside the church, with its superb One of Sarlat’s best hotel-restaurants,
Romanesque bas-reliefs. Look espe- La Madeleine is housed in a fine
cially at the carvings of Abraham, 19th-century building in the Old Town.
It serves top-notch regional cuisine.
Isaac and Isaiah on the pillars.
1 place de Petite Rigaudie, 24200; 05
ª Take the D804, then the D703. Then 53 59 10 41; www.plaza-madeleine.fr;
turn right onto the D704 to Sarlat. closed Jan–mid-Mar
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40