Page 175 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 15: The Dordogne: Source to Sea 173

i Castelnaud-la-Chapelle crossing Marnac, turn left onto the
Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24250 D703. At the crossroads, drive straight
The medieval village is so steeply across, onto the D25 to Le Buisson-de-
stacked around the Château de Cadouin and Cadouin.
Castelnaud that one of the tiled roofs
bears a notice: “This is a roof. Please o Cadouin
do not sit on it.” The château passed Dordogne, Aquitaine; 24480
back and forth between the French The Cistercian monastery of Cadouin
and English during the Hundred was long one of the Périgord’s most
Years’ War, and was finally yielded famous pilgrimage sites, with devo-
to the French after a siege in 1442, tees flocking to see the relic of
for 400 gold écus. It houses the Christ’s shroud. After the shroud was
Museum of Medieval Warfare (open defi nitively deemed inauthentic in
daily), which has an amazing collec- 1934 the pilgrimages stopped, but
tion of armour and weaponry, with con temporary visitors can still enjoy
real cannon at the windows and the austere calm of the church and
recon structions of siege catapults the intricately carved capitals of the
on the battlements. The museum Gothic cloisters. Above Arched passage to the Château de
also exhibits furniture from the ª Retrace the route to Le Buisson-de- Castelnaud in the medieval town of
period. Models and videos explain Cadouin. Turn left onto the D51 and Castlenaud-la-Chapelle Below Aerial view of
the vari ous methods in which the cross the river twice to reach Limeuil. the Château des Milandes and its grounds
building was protected over the Turn left onto the D31 that goes around
years. There are panoramic views of the Cirque de Trémolat to Trémolat.
the river from the château.
From Castelnaud follow the D53 Dams on the Dordogne
along the river for 6 km (4 miles) to Several huge dams have tamed
the beautiful Château des Milandes the Dordogne river since they were
(open daily Apr–Nov). François de constructed in the 1940s and 1950s.
Caumont, Lord of Castelnaud, built it They control water flow, function EAT AND DRINK
as reservoirs and supply electricity.
in 1489 for his wife. After the French
In fact, these dams are one of the
Revolution, the estate passed LA ROQUE GAGEAC
largest concentrations of hydro-
through the hands of several owners.
electric power in France. Specially La Belle Étoile moderate–expensive
In 1947, dancer and vaudeville star designed elevators lift migratory fish Watch the river go by from the dining
Josephine Baker bought the like shad, lamprey, salmon and trout room or shady terrace of this restau-
property to house her rainbow tribe out of the river and release them rant, and enjoy a deft mix of local
of adopted children from all over the upstream. These amazing engineer- cuisine with modern touches. Rooms
world. The château has been stun- ing projects, a staircase of barrages, are also available.
Le Bourg, 24250; 05 53 29 51 44;
can be admired from vari ous
ningly restored; visitors can see her www.hotel-belle-etoile-dordogne.fr;
vantage points and belvédères.
magnifi cent salon and dining rooms, closed Mon, Wed lunch, Nov–Mar
bed rooms and six bath rooms, two of
which featured the same colours as
her favourite perfumes. There is a
terrific collection of memorabilia,
dresses, letters, photo graphs, and
even her famous banana skirt. Baker
spent extrava gantly on the château
and its sur rounding prop erties, but
eventually went broke. A poignant
photograph shows her locked
outside the kitchen, barefoot in her
dressing gown, after she was finally
thrown out. The new chatelaine,
Angelique de St-Exupéry, is com mit-
ted to honouring the memory of
Josephine Baker, and projects are
underway to raise a statue to her, and
also to fund a village for orphaned
children and widows in Rwanda.
ª Continue along the D53 and at the
junction turn right onto the D50. After
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40