Page 83 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 6: The Essence of Normandy 81

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stairway on the left back to Vieux Bassin to return
Rue de l’Homme-de-Bois. to Quai de la Tour.
Turn left, and then right ª Follow Honfleur
again up Rue Varin, past harbour seawards and turn
the gardens of old Honfleur left onto Boulevard Charles V
houses. Next, turn right on to join the D513, which runs
Rue Delarue-Mardrus, and Restaurant sign, into Trouville. Parking can
look on the left for the long Honfleur be found on the streets
ramp of the Charrière de uphill from the beach.
Grâce, which will take visitors to the
very top of the escarpment above Honfleur Characters
Honfleur, the Côte de Grâce. Take in
Honfleur has been the hometown EAT AND DRINK
the fabulous view of the Seine, the
of two great eccent rics. Composer
Pont de la Normandie bridge and Erik Satie for a time wore only black HONFLEUR
modern Le Havre across the river. At clothes and ate only white food. His Le Bréard expensive
the top is the tranquil Baroque sailors’ contemporary, humourist Alphonse Among the region’s best for inventive,
chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Grâce 7. original cooking. Fabulous value.
Allais (1854–1905), staged the
Walk on past the chapel and look 7 rue du Puits, 14600; 02 31 89 53 40;
world’s first abstract art show with www.restaurant-lebreard.com; closed
out on the left for another viewpoint,
paintings such as an entirely red Tue lunch, Wed and Thu lunch except
which leads to a precipitous zigzag
canvas titled Apoplectic Cardinals Jul–Aug
path, the Rampe du Mont-Joli, back
Harvesting Tomatoes by the Red Sea.
down to the town and the pretty TROUVILLESURMER
Place du Puits. Turn right down Rue Bistrot les Quatre Chats
Eugène Boudin and follow the street 2 Trouville-sur-Mer moderate
past more fine old houses, a stone Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14360 This popular bistro has an excellent
wine selection and a chalked-up menu
Lavoir or traditional washhouse and Trouville was the first resort at the
of tapas, salads and larger dishes.
the tempting shops of Rue du mouth of the Seine to become popu- 8 rue d’Orléans, 14360; 02 31 88 94 94;
Dauphin. This street ends at the lar in the 1850s, and its beach was closed Wed, Jan
delightful sloping squares around the painted by famous artists such as Les Vapeurs moderate
glorious church of Ste-Catherine 8, Boudin, Monet and Renoir. It has still Savouring a bowl of moules-frites and
built entirely out of wood by local retained a laid-back, bohe mian appeal chilled white wine on the terrace of
Les Vapeurs is one of the essential
shipwrights in the 1470s. Leave the and is home to some of France’s liveli-
experiences of the Normandy coast.
square on the right to rejoin the est and most enjoyable brasseries.
160–162 quai Fernand Moureaux,
harbour by the Lieutenance, and ª Cross the Pont des Belges across 14360; 02 31 88 15 24;
walk on across the mouth of the the Touques river to enter Deauville. www.lesvapeurs.fr
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40