Page 84 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

82 BACK ROADS FRANCE

Apple Magic
The Pays d’Auge is credited with
producing the best of all Normandy
ciders and Calvados (apple brandy),
and is the only area with an official
appellation contrôlée for both. The
local tourist office has marked out a
Route du Cidre of farms that wel-
come visitors for tastings and sales.
4 Beaumont-en-Auge
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14950
South of Deauville visitors rapidly
enter the rolling Pays d’Auge country-
side, and traffic thins out as they turn
off the main road and climb up
winding lanes into a world of soft
green fields, orchards and unshakeably
peaceful villages. Beaumont makes
an attractive entry point, dubbed the
“balcony of the Pays d’Auge” due to
its remarkable location on a lofty
ridge, with an immense view east
Top Pigeon-loft and former barn at across the Touques Valley and to
Crèvecoeur’s château Above left Cambremer’s 3 Deauville Deauville and the sea.
village square Above right Beuvron-en- Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14800 ª Continue on the D58 to La Haie
Auge, a classic Norman village Created as a new town in the 1860s, Tondue and cross over the D675 to
Deauville became the most fashion- take the D16 as far as Bonnebosq.
WHERE TO STAY able holiday resort for rich Parisians, After Bonnebosq, turn right onto the
and has never lost its upmarket D276 for Beaufour-Druval, and then
DEAUVILLE cachet. Horseracing at the town’s two left onto the D146, to Beuvron.
Le Mascaret de Deauville moderate tracks is a major social focus, and
This chambre d’hôte is housed in a there is an opulent golf course. The 5 Route du Cidre and
1930s villa with a large garden. seafront is dominated by the Casino Beuvron-en-Auge
115 avenue de la République, 14800; and two giant luxury hotels, the Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14430
02 50 66 80 39; www.location- Normandy and the Royal, and there The signposted “cider route” runs
vacances-deauville.com
are glamorous cafés along the around the lushest, greenest part of
BEUVRONENAUGE famous promenade, Les Planches. the Pays d’Auge with some of its
Aux Trois Damoiselles moderate ª Leave Deauville on the D677 south finest old colombage farms and giant
The rooms of this engaging little hotel beside the Touques, for Pont-l’Évêque manor houses. Off the road west of
are charming with traditional furniture. and Paris. In St-Martin-aux-Chartrains, Beaufour-Druval is the rambling
Place Michel Vermughen, 14430; 02 31
39 61 38; www.manoirdesens.com turn right onto the D58 for St-Étienne- farm of one of the best small cider-
la-Thillaye and Beaumont-en-Auge. makers, Gerard Desvoyé.
Le Pave d’Hôtes moderate
This elegantly modernized 18th-
century Norman house has luxurious
features and views of the countryside.
Le Bourg, 14430; 02 31 39 39 10;
www.pavedauge.com
AROUND CRÈVECOEURENAUGE
Aux Charme des Pommiers moderate
This bed-and-breakfast, 2 km (1 mile)
east of Crèvecoeur, has pretty rooms.
Notre-Dame de Livaye, 14340; 02 31 63
01 28; http://bandb.normandy.free.fr
AROUND CAMBREMER
Manoir de Pontfol moderate
This bed-and-breakfast is a beautifully
restored 15th-century manor house.
Les Bas Vents, Chemin de Pontfol, 14340;
02 31 63 45 70; www.manoirdepontfol.fr Above Tractor at the cider shed of a Pays d’Auge farm
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150