Page 85 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 6: The Essence of Normandy 83

At Clermont-en-Auge a path leads to prestigious makers of fine ciders and
the Chapelle de Clermont, a 12th- Calvados, run from a magnificent
century chapel on a crag with a colombage manor. Illuminating tours
wonderful panoramic view. The road generally end with a tasting.
leads down to the pretty Beuvron- Along the road south are more fine
en-Auge, with a famous flower- houses (not open to visitors), such as
decked square of half-timbering in the refined 17th-century Château de
varying colours and patterns. Grandchamp and the massive 15th-
ª Fork left in Beuvron onto the D49; century rustic manor at Coupesarte.
follow the road through Victot-Pontfol ª Leave Cambremer on the D85. Turn
to meet the D16 and then the main left on D50 toward Lisieux; at La Poste
D613 from Caen at Carrefour St-Jean. turn right on D151 to St-Aubin then take
Turn left for Crèvecoeur. D613 to Crèvecoeur and left on D269 to
Grandchamp-le Château. When road
meets D269A turn left; at St Julien Le
Faucon take D47 for Coupesarte. Turn
left onto D136; crossing over D103, turn
right on the D579 and then left onto
D268 to St-Germain.

8 St-Germain-de-Livet
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14100
Nestling in a sheltered valley, this Above Château of St-Germain-de-Livet
romantic 16th-century château is Left Willows and water lilies around the Château de
a beguiling blend of a traditional Grandchamp, near Cambremer Below Cambremer’s
Pays d’Auge colombage manor and church tower
French Renaissance architecture,
with pepper-pot turrets and fascina-
ting check-pattern stonework.
Surrounding it are lovely gardens
and a moat, and inside there are
original 16th-century frescoes and
many mementos of the painter
6 Crèvecoeur-en-Auge Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863),
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14340 who often visited here. There are
Crèvecoeur’s château is an amazingly especially pretty views over the EAT AND DRINK
intact example of a classic Norman upper Touques Valley along the road
medieval castle, with an inner keep, south of St-Germain, particu larly AROUND BEAUMONTENAUGE
or motte, and a farm, pigeonloft and between Prêtreville and Fervaques. Auberge des Deux Tonneaux
other rustic build ings around a grassy ª Continue on the same road to meet moderate–expensive
outer enclosure or bailey. Inside are the D64 at Les Forges, turn right and This house, 10 km (6 miles) east of
exhibits on the castle’s history and drive down to Fervaques. In the village Beuvron, has been an auberge since
the 17th century. Enjoy classic Norman
traditional building techniques, as well turn right onto the D47, and then left dishes rich in cream, cheese and cider.
as a display on the engineering work onto the D149 for Livarot. Pierrefitte-en-Auge, 14130; 02 31 64 09
of the Schlumberger Foundation, 31; www.aubergedesdeuxtonneaux.
com; closed Mon Sep–May
which restored the castle in the 1970s.
ª From the château, turn left into BEUVRONENAUGE
Crèvecoeur village, and left again
Le Pavé d’Auge moderate–expensive
towards Cambremer on the D101. The number-one gourmet choice in
the area is this postcard-pretty restau-
7 Cambremer rant in Beuvron’s historic market hall.
Le Bourg, 14430; 02 31 79 26 71;
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14340
www.pavedauge.com; closed Mon, Tue
Cambremer is the chief market town
of the northern Pays d’Auge and hub CAMBREMER
of the Route du Cidre, with a charming Au P’tit Normand
main square. Just south of town, the inexpensive–moderate
Bright and friendly, this little restaurant
Jardins du Pays d’Auge form a maze
is a great-value choice for varied
of luxuriant themed gardens, with a
menus including local classics.
lovely salon de thé. Nearby is Calvados Place de l’Église, 14340; 02 31 32 03 20;
Pierre Huet, one of the most closed Sun evening, Mon