Page 86 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

84 BACK ROADS FRANCE

priory with a splendid chapel, barns
and cider-press, and exquisite modern
gardens and lily ponds. Northwest of
Crouttes is some of the leafiest Auge
countryside, with woods and villages
that are delightful to explore. By the
road outside Boissey is Fromagerie
de la Houssaye, makers of fine Livarot
and Pont-l’Évêque cheeses.
ª Follow the D703 past the Prieuré
St-Michel and through Le Renouard
until the D38. Turn right for
Tortisambert, then left through Le
Billot and follow signs for St-Georges-
Above left Delightful green fields around en-Auge to the right onto the D111.
Crouttes Above right Arlette Fountain in 9 Livarot From St-Georges take the D154, which
Falaise Below Colourful stalls in the market at Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14140 meets the D4 at Boissey. Turn left for
St-Pierre-sur-Dives The southern Pays d’Auge is most St-Pierre-sur-Dives.
famous for its cheeses. At Livarot,
which gave its name to one of the Land of Cheese
great Norman cheeses, Le Village Three of the four great Norman
WHERE TO STAY
Fromager offers free tours and tast- cheeses originated in the Pays
ings, and has a shop. A short distance d’Auge – Camembert, softer, slightly
CROUTTES
from Livarot along the D579 is browny-white Pont l’Évêque, and
Le Prieuré St-Michel moderate
A marvellously peaceful place, this Vimoutiers, where there is a statue of Livarot, with its distinctive orangey
offers five very special bed-and- Camembert’s inventor, Marie Harel, in rind wrapped in paper strips. Real
breakfast rooms and two self-contained the main square. Nearby, the Musée Norman Camembert is labelled
gîtes in the 18th-century abbot’s du Camembert has exhibits on the Camembert de Normandie or, even
residence attached to the medieval region’s folk traditions and on cheese. better, Camembert de Normandie
priory of St-Michel. Breakfast is served Fermier. Tourist offices (21 place du
in the 15th-century cider press. ª Take the D916 out of Vimoutiers; Mackau, Vimoutiers, 02 33 67 49 42)
Crouttes, 61120; 02 33 39 15 15; turn left on the D246 for Camembert. have leaflets listing those farms that
www.prieure-saint-michel.com are open for visits and direct sales.
0 Camembert
STPIERRESURDIVES
Orne, Basse-Normandie; 61120
Hotel des Agriculteurs inexpensive The village where little Marie Harel is
This traditional, family-run, small w St-Pierre-sur-Dives
country hotel has a good restaurant, said to have invented Camembert in Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14170
and is situated right in the centre, 1791 is tiny, climbing up a steep hill The centre of St-Pierre is the Halles,
close to the shops, in a pretty village with lofty views. The official Maison the giant timber-frame market hall,
that basks in flowers. du Camembert presents a modern first built in the 11th century, which
118 rue de Falaise, 14170; 02 31 20
72 78; www.lesagriculteurs.com exhibition on the cheese and its his- hosts the Pays d’Auge’s largest
tory, and the Ferme Président, run by
Ferme de l’Oudon expensive a major cheese producer, has a more
Designer furniture and subtle colour extensive cheese and folk museum in
schemes combine with the massive a restored 17th-century farm. South of
timbers and stone walls of a grand old
farm in the rooms and suite-like gîtes the village, Fromagerie Durand is a tra-
here, 3 km (2 miles) south of St-Pierre. di tional Camembert farm that admits
Some have their own entrances onto visitors for tours, tastings and sales.
the gardens and large tracts of fields. ª Continue along the road uphill
12 route d’Écots, Berville l’Oudon, from Camembert , turn left to rejoin
14170; 02 31 20 77 96;
www.fermedeloudon.com the D916. Turn right, and then left
onto the D703 for Crouttes.
AROUND FALAISE
Domaine de la Tour moderate q Crouttes
This hotel is located in beautifully Orne, Basse-Normandie; 61120
restored 18th-century buildings that
form part of the former hunting lodge The road twists and climbs still more
and stables of the Château de la Tour, steeply up to this delightful village,
just outside Falaise. Good for families, on a ridge with a breathtaking view
as extra beds can be provided in
rooms for a small charge. Saint-Pierre- over the narrow Monne Valley. Just
Canivet, 14700; 02 31 20 53 07; across the valley is the Prieuré
www.domainedelatour.fr St-Michel, a restored 13th-century
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150