Page 87 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 6: The Essence of Normandy 85

traditional country market every r Château de Vendeuvre
Monday. Nearby is the Abbatiale Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14170
church, founded in 1012 and a classic The Vendeuvre family reclaimed this
example of Norman architecture. The refined 1750s château after the French
Gothic chapterhouse and part of the Revolution. Badly damaged in World
cloister now house exhibitions, the War II, it has been sumptuously
tourist office and a cheese museum. restored with originals or replicas of
ª Take the main road north out of St- its deli cate, colourful decor. On display
Pierre, the D16, signed for Crèvecoeur. in the Orangerie (open daily May–Sep,
At Les Quatres Routes crossroads turn Sun Oct) is the world’s largest collec tion
left on the D47 for Mézidon- of miniature furniture. The gardens
Canon, and follow the road all the have mazes, a grotto and ponds.
way through the town to the château. ª Leaving the château, turn left to
join the main D511 at Jort, and follow
e Château de Canon it into Falaise.
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14270
This elegant 18th-century mansion t Falaise
was the home of the liberal thinker Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14700
J-B Élie de Beaumont (1732–86) and Falaise’s Château Guillaume-le-
his wife, who laid out its entrancing Conquérant, on a crag with a view of
gardens influenced by the philosophi- the surrounding plain, is one of the
cal ideas of the Enlightenment. The most formi d able of Norman Above Grand Château de Vendeuvre
house is closed to visitors, but they castles. William the
can wander around the gardens Conqueror was born here
(open Wed–Mon Jun–Sep, Sat–Sun in 1028, and his mother EAT AND DRINK
Apr–May) passing sculptures, Arlette, then only 17, was the
secluded groves and a daughter of a local tan ner. STPIERRESURDIVES
Chinese-style summerhouse. The town and castle were Auberge de la Dives
The estate has a very special terribly damaged in World inexpensive–moderate
treehouse guestroom. War II, but the château’s keep Pleasant rural restaurant with a terrace
overlooking the River Dives.
ª Turn left from the château, and giant tower were restored
27 boulevard Collas, 14170; 02 31 20
cross over the D47 and turn in the 1980s. Falaise was the 50 50; closed Tue, Sun & Mon evenings,
right onto the D152 signed to key point in the last stage first fortnight Feb, last fortnight Nov
Vieux-Fumé. Follow signs of the 1944 Battle of
for Condé-sur-Ifs and then Normandy, commemo- FALAISE
Ernes, and turn left onto rated in the Musée Août La Fine Fourchette expensive
the D253 for Vendeuvre, 1944 (open daily Jun–Aug, Plush traditional comfort and fine
Norman cuisines. 52 rue Georges
arriving almost opposite Old bell from a Pays Wed–Mon Apr–May and Sep– Clémenceau, 14700; 02 31 90 08 59;
the château. d’Auge inn early Nov) near the castle. closed Tue evenings, Feb
DAYTRIP OPTIONS heading inland, and from there go the D16 to join the main itinerary near
Those approaching from Paris on the on to Caen or return to Honfleur by Bonnebosq. From Cambremer, follow
A13 should turn onto the A29 for the same route. signs to Bonnebosq to retrace the
Honfleur, or, if they wish to miss out same route.
Cider country
the coast, stay on until exit 29, to
Food and countryside lovers may Châteaux and lost villages
Pont l’Évêque, and turn onto the
wish to visit the heart of the Pays The southern half of the Pays d’Auge
D675 Caen road as far as Drubec.
d’Auge around Beuvron 5 and including St-Germain-de-Livet 8
A Tang of the sea Cambremer 7, and search for cider makes an intriguing area to explore,
The Côte Fleurie from Honfleur 1, and cheese. with an enjoyably remote feel, exqui-
west to Trouville-sur-Mer 2 and site landscapes and unusual castles.
Drivers coming from the north on the
Deauville 3, makes a natural trip on
A29 who wish to head straight for Whether entering from the north or
its own, with lovely views along the
the countryside should stay on the from Paris and the south, leave the
cliffs, and many pretty small resorts
autoroute after crossing the Pont de la autoroute at Pont l’Évêque and take
as well as the bigger names.
Normandie bridge over the Seine and the D579 road through Lisieux towards
From Deauville continue along the turn right onto the A13, exiting at Pont Livarot; turn left onto the D268
D513 coast road to Villers-sur-Mer, l’Évêque. Then take the D675 Caen for St-Germain-de-Livet to join the
Houlgate and Cabourg rather than road as far as Drubec, and turn left on main route.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40