Page 93 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 7: Normandy’s Wild West 91

The Invasion Beaches
Bayeux is a natural base for visiting
the beaches that were the scene of
the Normandy landings of D-day on
6 June 1944. Arromanches, centre
of the British landings on Gold Beach,
is to the north; Omaha Beach and
the sombre American Cemetery are
to the northwest. The D514 coast
road runs all along the beaches from
above Caen to Pointe du Hoc.

2 Balleroy
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14490
The village of Balleroy was laid out
around its château to create a spec-
tacular approach on the road from
Bayeux. Designed in 1631 by archi tect
François Mansart, it is a classic of
the Louis XIII style. In the 1970s the
château was opulently restored by
American press magnate and balloon -
ing enthusiast, Malcolm Forbes, who Top Cattle grazing in the Marais wetlands
installed the Musée des Ballons across the base of the Cotentin Above left Old watermill in Bayeux Above
(open mid-Mar–Oct) in the stables. Peninsula. In and around Graignes right Typical Cotentin stone house Below
ª Facing the château in Balleroy, there are fine views over the marshes. Seventeenth-century Château de Balleroy
turn right down the D13 to reach a The main park information centre is
five-way junction in the Forêt de Cerisy, at Les Ponts d’Ouve near St-Côme- du-
known as L’Embranchement. Take the Mont. The town of St-Sauveur-le-
Cerisy-la-Forêt exit, still the D13, and Vicomte is centred around a
in the village follow the “Abbaye” signs. 12th-century castle.
ª From Les Ponts d’Ouve, drive to
3 Cerisy-la-Forêt St-Côme-du-Mont; turn left onto D270
Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50680 through Carquebut, towards
The sublime Abbaye de Cerisy-la- Houesville. Turn left again onto D70
Forêt is one of the finest Norman before Chef-du-Pont, and follow this
abbeys. Founded in 1032 by Robert road through Pont-l’Abbé, past
the Magnificent, it has been Crosville to St-Sauveur-le-Vicomte.
EAT AND DRINK
damaged over the centuries, but Follow signs to Barneville-Carteret on
most of its great church, a court D15, continue on D903, then D650. BAYEUX
room and a Gothic chapel from 1260
are intact. The best views of the abbey La Table du Terroir
inexpensive–moderate
are from around the pond below it. Meat dishes are the mainstay of this
ª From Cerisy village follow signs for convivial restaurant.
St-Clair-sur-Elle on D8, beyond which 42 rue St-Jean, 14400; 02 31 92 05 53;
closed Sun evening
the road meets the D6. Turn right onto
D6, then left onto the D8, then right L’Angle St Laurent
onto the D974. Turn right again, but moderate–expensive
Haute cuisine, Norman traditions and
make a detour left to Graignes on
international influences are inventively
D57, following the road back to the
combined here.
N174 at Le Rata. Then turn left to drive 2–4 rue des Bouchers, 14400; 02 31 92
past Carentan, and look out for a 03 01; www.langlesaintlaurent.com;
closed Sun evening, Mon & Sat mornings
turning left for Les Ponts d’Ouve.
BALLEROY
4 Parc Régional des Marais Manoir de la Drôme expensive
du Cotentin One of Normandy’s finest gourmet
restaurants. Enjoy the market specials.
Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50500
129 rue des Forges, 14490; 02 31 21 60
A protected nature park, the
94; www.manoir-de-la-drome.com;
Cotentin Marais is a peaceful expanse closed Sun evening, Tue lunch, Mon,
of wetland, full of birds, extending Wed and Feb
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40