Page 96 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
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94 BACK ROADS FRANCE


                               w Granville             e Champeaux
                               Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50406   Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50530
                               Founded as a fortress in the Hundred   The coast road south enters the bay
                               Years’ War (1337–1453), Granville’s old   of Mont-St-Michel on top of massive
                               town or haute ville is an atmospheric   cliffs at Champeaux, from where, like
                               knot of cobbled streets on a head-  medieval pilgrims, visi tors can get their
                               land with superb sea views. The town   first glimpse of the mount. There are
                               has unusual museums, notably the   more fine views as the road heads to
                               Musée d’Art Moderne Richard   St-Jean-le-Thomas. From there, follow
                               Anacréon (closed Jan) for contempo-  signs for the plage, then turn left for
                               rary art, and the Musée Christian   Genêts. This village was once the
                               Dior (open May–Sep), the fashion   main departure point for pil grims
                               designer’s child hood summer home.    walking across to Mont-St-Michel.
                               ª Take the road nearest the water-  ª From Genêts village follow signs to
                               front out of Granville onto the D911   St-Léonard, but at the D41 turn right
                               coast road through St-Pair-sur-Mer.   for Le Grand-Port, and follow this road
                               Climb up to the cliffs at Champeaux.   to the Maison de la Baie de Vains.

                               r Grouin du Sud
                               Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50300
       Top Road signs along the walk around the   The silhouette of Mont-St-Michel, seen across the flat sands and
       Grouin du Sud Above Path along the beach in   channels, is one of its most extraordinary features. A walk along the
       Grouin du Sud           bay allows visitors to absorb the rare calm of this place.
                               A 90-minute walking tour  right of the Maison de la Baie to
                               Park by the Maison de la Baie de    meet the coastal footpath and
                               Vains  1. Take a look around the   continue along this path beyond the
                               exhibition housed in this restored   last houses, with the flat marshes and
                               farm that also serves as an informa-  sandbanks to the right and lush cattle
                               tion centre and offers an introduc-  pastures to the left. A short distance
                               tion to the complex ecology of the   ahead, the path meets a gate and
                               place. Walk down the path to the   climbs a little. After a second gate,
        WHERE TO STAY
       GRANVILLE                                     Prieuré
                                                   St-Léonard
       Hôtel L’Arivée moderate
       A reasonably-priced hotel just two
       minutes’ walk from the beach.
       110 Avenue Libération, 50400; 02 33    La Chaussée
       50 03 00; www.hotelarrivee.com
       AROUND MONTSTMICHEL
       Le Moulin inexpensive
       The old granite water mill, 25 km    Maison de la
       (15 miles) north of Mont-St-Michel,   Baie de Vains  Chemin des Moines
       hosts four traditionally-styled rooms.
       93 Grande Rue, Genêts, 50530; 02 33 70
       83 78; www.gites-de-france.com
       Le Jardin Secret moderate
       This bed-and-breakfast is housed in
       a lovely 19th-century house, 20 km
       (12 miles) northeast of Mont-St-Michel.    Baie du
       42 route de Granville, Marcey-les   Mont-St-Michel
       Grèves, 50300; 02 33 51 92 47
       Manoir de la Roche Torin moderate
       One of the classic hotels for Mont-St-           Picnic Area
       Michel visitors, this very comfortable,
       traditionally-styled manor, 10 km                          0 metres  300
       (6 miles) east of the shrine, has a    Grouin
                                              du Sud
       marvel lous setting by the bay’s edge.                     0 yards  300
       La Roche Torin, Courtils, 50220; 02 33
       70 96 55; www.manoir-rochetorin.com
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150
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