Page 95 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

DRIVE 7: Normandy’s Wild West 93

8 Château de Gratot 0 Abbaye de Hambye
Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50200 Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50450
Although partly in ruins, this The 12th- to13th-century Abbaye de
14th-century château can still give a Hambye (open daily Jul–Aug, Wed–Mon
power ful impression of life in a medi- Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct) was one of
eval castle, with its towers, pepperpot the largest Benedictine abbeys in
turrets and broad moat. Several build- Normandy. It was closed after the
ings have been restored and now 1789 Revolution, and the abbey
house a display on the history of the church is now an atmos pheric ruin,
castle and the Argouges clan, lords rising up among the woods. Around
of Gratot. Soaring up above Gratot is Hambye and to the south is one of
the strange one-room Tour à la Fée the densest and most picturesque
(Fairy Tower), so called because a stretches of bocage countryside.
local legend has it that a fairy who ª From the abbey return to the D51
married an Argouges is said to have and turn left and then right onto the
disappeared out of its window when D198 for Gavray. At the next fork join
he mentioned death in her presence. the D238; when this meets the D9 turn
ª Follow the same road into right into Gavray. Turn left in the town
Coutances, and then signs for “Centre on the D7, and drive on down this Above Gardens at the Abbey de la Lucerne
Ville” to the cathedral. Except during road to La Haye-Pesnel, where the D35 d’Outremer Below Abbatiale de la Ste-
the Thursday market, there is free to La Lucerne is signed on the right. Trinité, Lessay
parking in the squares beside it.
EAT AND DRINK
From the Cotentin to Sicily q La Lucerne d’Outremer
BARNEVILLECARTERET
In 1036, Tancrède de Hauteville, a Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50320
minor Cotentin lord, left with his In an idyllic setting in a wooded valley La Marine expensive
sons for Italy, where they got work as stands the 12th-century Abbaye de This Michelin-starred town favourite
merce naries. After fighting for local la Lucerne d’Outremer. It gained its offers gourmet cuisine.
11 rue de Paris, 50270; 02 33 53 83 31;
kings for a while, and gaining a title “d’Outremer” (“overseas”) because www.hotelmarine.com; check opening
fearsome reputation, they began to it stayed loyal to the Kings of England hours before visit
go into business for themselves. One
son became King of Apulia, and two even after King Philippe-Auguste of AROUND BARNEVILLECARTERET
others set up a Norman kingdom in France took over Normandy in 1204. Le Hamelinet inexpensive–moderate
Sicily that lasted over 150 years. Pirou La Lucerne was reduced to ruins after A laid-back atmosphere is the keynote
is believed to have been one of the the Revolution, but is now being at this pub-like village restaurant, 16 km
Hautevilles’ possessions, and the restored. There are lovely walks in (10 miles) south of Barneville.
story of their adventures is told on a the woods around La Lucerne. La Rue de Surville, 50250; 02 33 07 10 84
modern embroidery at the château.
ª Turn right out of the abbey, take
AROUND HAMBYE
the road uphill and follow signs to St- Auberge de l’Abbaye de Hambye
9 Coutances Jean-des-Champs on the D105 to moderate–expensive
Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50200 meet the D924. Turn left into Granville. This restaurant serves traditional cuisine,
The old town of Coutances sits atop located in an old stone Norman estab–
a massive hill. Its height seems to be lishment next to Abbaye d’Hambye.
5 route de l’Abbaye, 50450; 02 23 61 42
raised even higher by its unique
19; closed Sun evening, Jan
cathedral, with a soaring Gothic-
Romanesque façade of extraordinarily LA LUCERNE D’OUTREMER
tall, thin towers and columns. Le Courtil de la Lucerne moderate
Informative guided tours allow visitors A lovely garden leads guests to this
charming inn. Norman hams, cheeses
to see every part of the cathedral.
and Calvados feature on the menu.
ª Follow signs for Granville and
La Lucerne d’Outremer, 50320; 02 33
Avranches out of Coutances, but fork 61 22 02; closed Tue, Wed (low season)
left onto the D7, signed for Villedieu-
AROUND LA LUCERNE
les-Poêles. At Les Hauts Vents (the sign
D’OUTREMER
is very small) turn off left on the D49
Auberge du Mesnil-Rogues
to St-Denis-le-Gast. Next, turn left and moderate–expensive
right onto the D38, before turning left Known for fine quality, this auberge, 10
on the D238 for La Baleine. Follow this km (6 miles) west of La Lucerne, has
comfortable dining rooms.
lane and then the D398 to join the
1 route de l’Auberge, Le Mesnil-Rogues,
D13 to Hambye village. Turn right
50450; 02 33 61 37 12; www.
onto the D51, then left onto the D258 aubergedumesnilrogues.com; closed
to the Abbaye de Hambye. Tue & Wed evening, Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40