Page 94 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

92 BACK ROADS FRANCE

WHERE TO STAY

BARNEVILLECARTERET
Hôtel des Isles moderate
A stylishly renovated hotel on Barneville
beach, with nautical-themed rooms.
9 blvd Maritime, 50270; 02 33 04 90 76;
www.hoteldesisles.com; closed Feb
AROUND COUTANCES
Manoir de la Foulerie
inexpensive–moderate
With a formidable stone tower, this
16th-century farm 8 km (5 miles) north
of Coutances offers self-contained gîtes
and bed-and-breakfast rooms.
Ancteville, 50200; 02 33 45 27 64; 5 Barneville-Carteret Ste-Trinité. First built in the 11th
www.manoirdelafoulerie.com Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50270 century, it was terribly damaged in
This charming seaside resort has three World War II, but has been beautifully
Le Castel expensive
This château, 15 km (9 miles) south of parts, the hilltop village of Barneville, restored. It was the first Norman
Coutances, has been transformed into a the beach area of Barneville-Plage and church with a roof of ribbed vaults,
luxurious retreat with six opulent rooms. the pretty harbour of Carteret, nestled and it has one of the longest naves
Montpinchon, 50210; 02 33 17 00 45; against the rocky headland of Cap de of any Norman church.
www.le-castel-normandy.com
Carteret. There are excellent fish ª Retrace the same route out of
HAMBYE restaurants, and to the north, past Lessay to the D650. Turn left, drive
Auberge de l’Abbaye inexpensive the cape, there is an endless, on past Pirou village and look
This long-running little hotel is a wind swept beach. To the for a turning inland, about
favourite of many regular visitors. The south, Portbail is a tiny 2 km (1 mile) up this road,
traditionally-styled rooms are pretty.
5 route de l’Abbaye, 50450; 02 33 61 42 port with a fascinating signed to Château de Pirou.
19; www.aubergedelabbayehambye. fortified church from the
com 11th-century and a long 7 Château de Pirou
shingle beach reached by Manche, Basse-Normandie;
AROUND LA LUCERNE
a causeway. 50770
D’OUTREMER
ª From Barneville take the One of the oldest Norman
Logis d’Équilly moderate D124 for St-Georges-de-la- castles in the region, rugged
This splendid 17th-century manor,
13 km (8 miles) north of La Lucerne, Rivière down to Portbail. Stained-glass window of Pirou looks like a model of
has a huge double bed-and-breakfast Turn inland, and outside the the abbey in La Lucerne a warrior stronghold. Its
suite, with a grand living room. village turn right onto the oldest parts are from the
Équilly, 50320; 02 33 61 04 71 D650. After St-Germain-sur-Ay, turn 9th century, but most of the granite
Au Chateau expensive left on the D652 for Lessay, and follow walls date from three centuries later.
Unique pair of châteaux with well- signs for “Centre Ville”. To enter the castle, visitors must walk
restored bed-and-breakfast rooms on through several gates and all the
six hectares (15 acres) of parkland.
1 rue du Télégraphe Chappe, 50920; 02 6 Lessay way around the green-water moat.
33 69 39 17; www.auchateau.fr Manche, Basse-Normandie; 50430 Inside, the rooms include a medi eval
The centre of this placid market guard-house with a giant fireplace.
Above Partly ruined medieval Château de town is dominated by the majestic Narrow stairways lead to the ram-
Gratot Below Jardin des Plantes in Coutances abbey church, the Abbatiale de la parts, which offer panoramic views.
ª Get back onto the D650 and turn
left. In Gouville-sur-Mer, turn left onto
the D268, towards Gouville-Bourg and
Coutances. In Gratot, park next to the
church and follow signs to the château.
Ciders of the Bocage
The Cotentin peninsula produces
fine ciders and Calvados. They are
generally drier and more astrin gent
than the better-known ciders of the
Pays d’Auge, which many aficionados
think makes them more interesting.
The farms here tend to be very small
and seeking them out is a great way
to discover the countryside.