Page 92 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

90 BACK ROADS FRANCE

1 Bayeux
Calvados, Basse-Normandie; 14400
Compact and easy to explore, Bayeux has retained more of its
historic character than perhaps any other city in western Normandy.
This is partly because it escaped remarkably unscathed from the
cauldron of the Battle of Normandy in World War II. It also possesses
two special treasures – one of the finest of all Norman cathedrals
and an extraordinary medieval picturebook, the Bayeux Tapestry.
Bayeux suffered so little destruction picture of 11th-century life. An exhi-
in the war because it was liberated bition and a film shown on other
by the Allies on the second day after floors add to the historical context.
the Normandy landings, on 7 June The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de
1944. Consequently it has retained Bayeux is just a short walk away
many of its picturesque old build- uphill. The two giant towers of the
ings, many of them along the long main façade, the crypt and much of
main street that runs roughly east– the nave are survivors from the
west through the town, a natural cathedral built for Bishop Odo and
route for strolling. The oldest house completed in 1077 in a majestically
in Bayeux is at the corner of Rue St- simple Norman-Romanesque style.
Martin and Rue des Cuisiniers, a Other Gothic sections were added
huge stone and colombage 14th- from the 13th to the 15th centuries,
Above The majestic Cathédrale Notre-Dame century town house, and on Rue like the main portals and the apse at
de Bayeux Below Rue St-Martin, one of St-Patrice is the Hôtel d’Argouges, a the back. The dome on the central
Bayeux’s main streets stately 16th-century mansion in tower was only added in the 19th
stone. Other historic houses can be century. Leaving the cathedral, look
found in the surround ing streets and out for the 16th-century Maison
VISITING BAYEUX
alleys, and, at many places, 14th- d’Adam et Eve across the street,
century watchtowers, built during named because it has the figures of
Tourist Information
Pont St-Jean; 02 31 51 28 28; the Hundred Years’ War, can be seen. Adam and Eve carved on its façade.
www.bessin-normandie.fr The Bayeux Tapestry is housed in The building houses the Conservatoire
the Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, de la Dentelle de Bayeux, a showcase
Parking
There is plenty of free parking on Rue a little south of the main street. It is for the town’s traditional lacemaking
Larcher, the main entrance to the thought to have been made in skills. On the Boulevard Fabian Ware
Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant and England around 1070, commissioned on the southwest side of the town is
the cathedral, and in other streets by Odo, half-brother of William the the large Musée-Memorial de la
around the centre.
Conqueror and Bishop of Bayeux, to Bataille de Normandie, which covers
hang in Bayeux Cathedral. It recounts the entire campaign in great detail.
in graphic detail all the events lead- ª Take the St-Lô exit off Bayeux’s
WHERE TO STAY
ing up to and during the Norman ring of boulevards, the D572. Turn
invasion of England in 1066, very left in La Tuilerie onto the D73 (Route
BAYEUX
much from the Norman point of Touristique) for Castillon and the next
Le Petit Matin moderate view. In the process, it gives a vivid stop, Balleroy.
A very friendly chambre d’hôte, a short
walk from Bayeux’s main street.
2 bis rue Quincangrogne, 14400; 02 31
10 09 27; www.chambres-hotes-
bayeux-lepetitmatin.com
Hôtel d’Argouges moderate
There is a real touch of ancien régime
elegance in this 18th-century mansion.
Rooms have plenty of modern extras.
21 rue St-Patrice, 14400; 02 31 92 88
86; www.hotel-dargouges.com
AROUND BALLEROY
L’Authentique inexpensive
Very comfortable bed-and-breakfast
rooms in a venerable old stone house,
8 km (5 miles) north of Balleroy. It is
also a restaurant. Rue Retot, Le Molay-
Littry, 14430; 02 31 51 83 93