Page 62 - All About History - Issue 56-17
P. 62

What               if…



                     The US had started





                                eating hippos?






               The American diet – and its landscape – could have looked very

         different had the country taken a radical step to feed its growing nation


                                                         Written by Jack Parsons

          n 1910, the US was facing a meat crisis. The   Agriculture to make the case for importing hippos.   of stubborn belief in the ability of Americans to
          price of beef was soaring because the nation’s   This included testimonies from the frontiersman   do anything they decide to do, regardless of data
          farmland had been ruined by overgrazing,   Frederick Russell Burnham, who had spent   to the contrary.”
          making it harder to raise cattle, while America’s   years living as a scout in South Africa, and Fritz   One motivation for ‘wilful ignorance’ Gailey gives
       Ipopulation had never been greater thanks to   Duquesne, a Boer hunter who had given a series of   is if the bill was tied into the financial interests
        three decades of high immigration. Up until this   lectures on East Africa’s ‘wonderland’ across the US.  of a political party. After the hearing, Broussard,
        point, the US had responded to food shortages   In part due to Burnham and Duquesne’s   Burnham and Duquesne formed the New Food
        by expanding west, but the country had run out   charisma, the newspapers fell in love with the idea.   Supply Society to lobby their cause. If the Society
        of frontiers to cultivate. One radical solution was   The Washington Post declared Americans would   had received financial backing from a wealthy
        to import hippopotamuses from Africa and start   be eating hippo meat in just a few years, while the   patron, perhaps Roosevelt, they may have been
        ranching them in swamplands.           New York Times euphemistically called it “lake cow   able to sway Congress to pass the bill.
          “It was taken very seriously!” says Sarah Gailey,   bacon”. Former president Theodore Roosevelt, an   However, Gailey is not confident that hippo
        author of the alternative history novel River of   old friend of Burnham’s, also supported the cause.   ranching would have solved America’s food
        Teeth. “This idea was considered a potential   But, despite the hype, Broussard’s ‘hippo bill’ failed.  problems. “I think it would have been a boom-and-
        solution to a major problem in the US. I don’t think   “The primary downfall of the hippo bill was   bust industry that would have left a lot of people
        that the logistics were considered properly, but the   the revelation of the true nature of the beast itself.   hungry in the end.” But she also thinks it could
        core concept — we should import hippos, breed   Unlike cows, which are generally considered slow   have had a significant environmental impact. “The
        them, and eat them — was considered relatively   and docile, hippos are fast and aggressive,” says   hippo bill was not solely focused on hippos — it
        foolproof by a lot of people.”         Gailey. “I think that, to change that history, the   allowed for the importation of other exotic animals
          Robert F Broussard, a Louisiana congressman,   parties involved would have needed a greater   for consumption. The impact of these importations
        led a hearing before the House Committee of   degree of wilful ignorance or a greater degree    on American ecology cannot be overstated.”

        How would it be diferent?                                            l The bill fails       l ‘Food will win the war’
                                                                               Too late in the year to get
                                                                                                      In an effort to produce enough food
                                                                               Congress to act on the bill, the
                                                                                                      to feed their troops and allies during
                                                                               New Food Supply Society is set   WWI, the US urges its citizens to
                                l The hippo bill                               up to maintain pressure but   eat less wheat and meat through
                                  Congressman Robert Broussard                 ultimately loses momentum and   ‘Meatless Tuesday’ initiatives
                                  introduces a bill to authorise               the bill fails. 1911   and propaganda. 1917
                                  and fund the import of ‘useful
                                  animals’. Burnham, along with Fritz
                                  Duquesne, makes a compelling case
        Real timeline             to the Agriculture Committee.  Real timeline             l The Food Riots
                                  March 1910
                                                                                             Food prices remain high through the
                                                                                             1910s and skyrocket in the weeks
                                                                                             before the US enters WWI. Riots break
        1910                                                                                 out in New York as mobs confront
                                                                                             store owners for raising prices.
         l The Meat Question                                                                 February 1917
          With beef prices at an
          all-time high, Americans
          question how to feed
          themselves. Frederick                                 Alternate timeline
          Russell Burnham publishes
          an essay on how African
          animals could be                              l The bill passes
          introduced to America’s                         With serious financial backing, the New Food Supply Society
          empty deserts and                               lobbies politicians hard to support the hippo bill and it passes
          swamps. February 1910                           in the next congressional session. 1911
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