Page 112 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: Austria / France
93 Högl Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau
Schön 2017 $59 Seductive, with elderflower and
chamomile notes framing the core of peach, persimmon
and guava flavors. Ripe and showy, but the acidity and
minerality balance this out, imparting structure and
length. Almost ready, but should be better with a few years
of cellaring. Best from 2021 through 2028. 10 cases
imported.—A.Z.
93 Kolfok Grüner Veltliner Weinland Alte Reben
2017 $50 Subtle and elegant, yet full of energy. This
is nuanced, with the layers emerging one after another.
Notes of cardamom and coriander come first, followed by
green peach and pear flavors, and rounded up by a burst
of floral and herbal hints. Not a powerhouse, but shows
great minerality and focus. Needs a bit more time. Best
from 2021 through 2030. 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Grabenwerkstatt Grüner Veltliner Wachau
Ried Brandstatt 2018 $102 Vibrant and juicy, with
nectarine, grapefruit, savory mineral and herbal aromas
and flavors. Well-focused and structured, but slightly
cloudy in appearance. Nevertheless, this is beautifully knit
and richly spiced. Best from 2021 through 2028. 12 cases
imported.—A.Z.
92 Kolfok Blaufränkisch Burgenland Güterweg
Neckenmarkter 2016 $33 A focused red, with an
elegant profile, displaying notes of violet, dark cherry and
hibiscus tea. Shows a slightly crunchy texture, with suf-
ficient tannins and bright acidity. Floral and lightly fruity,
this is a real charmer that would pair very well with food.
Drink now through 2026. 30 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Lackner-Tinnacher Sauvignon Blanc Süd-
steiermark Ried Flamberg 2017 $49 Deceptively
restrained on the nose, this wine is very expressive on the
palate, exhibiting notes of green fig, grapefruit and fresh
herb. Silky in texture, with a slight grip, this shows a lot
of tension at the moment. Long finish. Drink now through
2027. 350 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Moric Burgenland White Hausmarke Super-
natural 2018 $29 Seductively textured, like a piece
of silk caressing your skin, this white shows lovely miner-
ality, elegance and class. Quite exotic, featuring notes of
papaya, marzipan and elderflower, with firm acidity stand-
ing behind, electrifying the wine. Long finish. Grüner
Veltliner and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2026. 100
cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Rosi Schuster Blaufränkisch Burgenland
2017 $22 This elegant red shows medium density, with
tannins to match, and a core of plum and dark cherry fla-
vors. Dark chocolate and spice notes glide along, adding
complexity, as this evolves with each sip. Very fresh and
long on the finish. Charming now, but should develop
more with age. Best from 2021 through 2028. 150 cases
imported.—A.Z.
92 Rosi Schuster Grüner Veltliner Burgenland
Aus den Dörfern Gemischter Satz 2018 $23 This
shows a slight reduction at first, but those flavors add to
the complexity of this silky, focused and well-balanced
white. Notes of quince blossom, dandelion and ripe citrus
mingle here, carried by vibrant acidity, which cuts through
the velvety texture. Crunchy minerality marks the finish.
Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Muskat Ottonel, Weiss-
burgunder, Neuberger and Furmint. Drink now through
2026. 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Moric Burgenland Hausmarke 2017 $25
This combines power and grace, with a ripe profile and
lively acidity. Flavors of cherry and currant harmonize
with hints of loam, underbrush and hibiscus tea. Complex
and fresh-tasting, but also firm, this red is intriguingly
long and inviting. Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir.
Drink now through 2026. 200 cases imported.—A.Z.
106 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
FRANCE
Alsace
94 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace
Grand Cru Wintzenheim Hengst 2017 $82 Fine
and silky, this takes rich, ripe, off-dry notes of pureed
peach, lychee, spun honey, ground ginger and cardamom
and firms the flavor range by seamlessly integrating a la-
serlike streak of racy acidity. Medium- to full-bodied and
lithe, featuring a long finish of mineral and spice accents.
Drink now through 2032. 15 cases imported.—A.N.
94 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot
Gris Alsace Turckheim Clos
Jebsal Sélection de Grains
Nobles 2017 $66/375ml Plush
and creamy in texture, this rich
sweetie unfolds on the palate, where
flavors of baked yellow peach, can-
died kumquat and ginger, smoke
and crystallized honey emerge and
intensify. Racy acidity creates a OLIVIER HUMBRECHT
mouthwatering impression that Owner & Winemaker
drives the flavor range on the lasting finish. Drink now
through 2032.—A.N.
94 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Hunawihr
Clos Windsbuhl 2017 $82 A mineral-driven version,
displaying austere power and intensity, with steely acidity
and tightly meshed flavors of poached pear, Marcona al-
mond, star fruit, white pepper, minerally petrol and smoke.
Delivers a lightly honeyed quality that plays off the acidity
to create an accessible, mouthwatering impression today,
although this should age beautifully. Best from 2023 through
2033. 30 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Réserve 2017 $30
A lovely nose of petrol and white pepper leads to flavors
of apricot, star anise, lemon peel and herb in this elegant,
light-bodied white, defined by finely cut, steely acidity.
Offers a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through
2030. 4,000 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace
Grand Cru Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Urbain 2017
$108 Ashy smoke and flint notes form a minerally over-
tone that leads the way in this creamy, full-bodied Gewürz-
traminer, layered with flavors of honeycomb, baked
apricot, preserved lemon and biscuit. Dense and seam-
lessly knit, with the rich flavor range swathing a firm,
well-defined frame of acidity that creates a mouthwater-
ing impression on the smoky finish. Drink now through
2029. 15 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace
Hunawihr Clos Windsbuhl 2017 $82 Dense and
creamy, this mouthwatering white is medium- to full-bod-
ied and finely knit, with racy acidity and a subtle note of
smoky mineral underscoring the rich range of baked
melon, blood orange sorbet, ginger biscuit and aromatic
spice flavors that linger on the finish. Drink now through
2029. 40 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Turck-
heim Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive 2017 $89 A
rich, silky white, showing fine balance and integration
between the mouthwatering acidity and lightly sweet
range of mango, candied pink grapefruit peel, ground gin-
ger and cardamom flavors. Displays good intensity on the
zesty finish, with accents of minerally smoke, lemon thyme
and ripe fruit. Drink now through 2032.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Herrenweg
de Turckheim 2017 $26 This medium-bodied Ries-
ling is juicy and expressive, offering honeyed flavors of
passion fruit coulis, white peach sorbet, grated ginger and
blood orange zest. Fine and creamy, almost ethereal on
the palate despite the intensity of the flavor range, with
a mouthwatering, mineral-driven finish. Drink now
through 2030.—A.N.