Page 113 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 113
New Releases: France
93 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Wintzen- 91 Henri Schoenheitz Pinot Gris Alsace 2017
heim Clos Häuserer 2017 $35 Intense and racy, this $23 An elegant, medium-bodied white, with light,
mouthwatering, light- to medium-bodied white offers a snappy acidity enlivening the flavors of baked pineapple,
fine, tightly knit range of nectarine, pink grapefruit gran- spun honey and preserved lemon, showing a touch of
ita, herb and grated ginger flavors, layered with a miner- thyme. Creamy, offering a hint of smoke on the finish.
ally overtone of petrol and smoke. Bright and expressive, Drink now through 2027. 370 cases made, 100 cases
with the lively flavors echoing on the lasting finish. Drink imported.—A.N.
now through 2030.—A.N.
91 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2016 $28
92 J.-B. Adam Gewürztraminer Alsace Les Na- Beeswax and crushed pine notes are layered with poached
tures 2018 $28 Silky and light- to medium-bodied, apple, Marcona almond and lemon curd flavors in this
this restrained version seems too subtle at first, but then dry, medium-bodied version, framed by sleek acidity and
the finely meshed flavors of green melon, lychee, carda- petrol-laced minerality. Drink now through 2026. 12,000
mom and pink grapefruit sorbet develop, enlivened by cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—A.N.
sleek acidity and expanding through to the mineral-driven
finish. Drink now through 2025. 800 cases made, 80 cases 91 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2017 $25 A sleek,
imported.—A.N. minerally white, with well-cut acidity defining flavors of
white peach, pine and preserved lemon, showing a rich
92 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve Person- hint of passion fruit coulis. Fine and creamy, offering a
nelle 2016 $45 Bright and well-knit, this medium- lasting finish. Drink now through 2027. 30,000 cases
bodied white offers a silky mix of crushed almond, poached made, 7,000 cases imported.—A.N.
peach, lemon pâte de fruit and herb flavors. Well-cut and
minerally on the subtle, lingering finish. Drink now 90 Wolfberger Gewürztraminer Alsace 2018
through 2026. 4,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.N. $17 A textbook version, hitting the mark by balancing
dry, zesty, ripe and juicy elements, this is medium-bodied,
92 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Sélection de Vie- offering a spicy mineral underpinning layered with lychee,
illes Vignes 2016 $37 Fresh and minerally, with lots white peach, rose petal and candied pink grapefruit peel
of petrol and pine details accenting the crunchy pear, flavors that linger on the clean-cut finish. Drink now
crushed almond and lemon pith notes. Creamy on the through 2025. 6,200 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
palate and tightly knit, driven by racy acidity that creates
a mouthwatering impression on the lasting finish. Drink 89 Trimbach Pinot Blanc Alsace 2017 $20 A
now through 2026. 2,000 cases made, 300 cases zesty white, with a stony underpinning, this is light-bodied
imported.—A.N. and fresh, offering notes of ripe green apple, grated ginger
and Meyer lemon zest. Offers a snappy, floral finish. Drink
92 Weinbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2017 $37 now through 2022. 20,000 cases made, 9,000 cases
A sleek, creamy, medium-bodied white, with well-cut imported.—A.N.
acidity and a citrusy overtone of blood orange and pink
grapefruit, this harmonious version offers stone- and 89 Alsace Willm Riesling Alsace Réserve 2017
smoke-laced minerality and flavors of Honeycrisp apple, $16 A bright, minerally, light-bodied white, offering a
elderflower and grated ginger. Drink now through 2027. creamy range of yellow plum, preserved lemon, delicate
436 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N. spice, sage and petrol notes. Clean-cut finish. Drink now
through 2023. 12,500 cases made, 7,500 cases
92 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace imported.—A.N.
Roche Roulée 2017 $44 A rich, dry version, with a
powerful frame of finely honed acidity and a streak of spicy 88 Alsace Willm Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant
mineral, this shows a well-meshed range of baked peach d’Alsace NV $14 A bright and balanced sparkler, with
and persimmon fruit, lemon thyme and grated ginger fla- vivacious acidity and a lively bead carrying flavors of Hon-
vors. Long and creamy on the mineral-driven finish. Drink eycrisp apple, pickled ginger, nectarine and honeysuckle.
now through 2032. 52 cases imported.—A.N. Spice and mineral accents show on the finish. Drink now.
19,000 cases made, 7,500 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru
Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Urbain 2017 $108 A FRANCE
minerally white, with graphite, stone and smoke accents
underscoring the crunchy white peach, pink grapefruit Burgundy / White
granita and almond blossom notes. Dry and medium-bod-
ied, this finely knit, mouthwatering white should open 97 Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet 2017
nicely with short-term aging. Best from 2022 through $600 See Collectibles, page 101.
2030. 10 cases imported.—A.N.
95 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les
92 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Roche Vergers 2017 $140 Starts out with plenty of flesh,
Roulée 2017 $44 Broad and creamy, this medium- featuring apricot and lime flavors, with a hint of the sea,
bodied white features a silky palate of baked pear and before firming up and revealing a racy side as this winds
apricot fruit, orange peel, honeysuckle and blanched al- down on the long finish. Shows a lot of energy. Drink now
mond flavors, backed by sleek, well-knit acidity. Miner- through 2027. 80 cases imported.—B.S.
ally notes of smoke and stone play on the creamy finish. Seek Spy.
Drink now through 2027. 52 cases imported.—A.N. 94 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos
de la Maltroie 2017 $140 Plush, evoking butterscotch,
92 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Turck- vanilla, clove and nutmeg top notes wrapped around a Find why.
heim Heimbourg 2017 $66 Notes of ripe yellow core of peach and apple flavors. Firms up on the finish,
peach, pomegranate, grated ginger and lemon thyme are but a year or two in bottle should help this find equilib-
bright and expressive in this harmonious, medium-bodied rium. A smoky mineral element adds depth. Best from Family owned // Sustainably crafted
white. A core of flavor deftly swathes the firm frame of 2021 through 2027. 100 cases imported.—B.S. For wine lovers
racy acidity and stony minerality. Drink now through
2030.—A.N. 94 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les spyvalleywine.co.nz // #seekspy
Chaumées Clos de la Truffière 2017 $140 A lush,
91 Domaine Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer creamy style, this white offers charming flavors of peach,
Alsace 2017 $16 A lively, medium-bodied white, with lime blossom, butterscotch and mineral. Despite the sup-
firm acidity providing fine cut and balance, this offers yel- ple texture, this features underlying acidity and terrific ENJOY OUR WINES RESPONSIBLY. THANK YOU.
low peach and preserved lemon flavors, accented by length. Drink now through 2025. 70 cases imported.—B.S. ©2019 Spy Valley Wines, Marlborough, New Zealand
crushed pine and mineral notes. Drink now through 2025. Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc.
1,800 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N. www.broadbent.com
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 107

