Page 113 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 113

New Releases: France



         93  Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Wintzen-                  91  Henri Schoenheitz Pinot Gris Alsace 2017
         heim Clos Häuserer 2017  $35  Intense and racy, this         $23  An elegant, medium-bodied white, with light,
         mouthwatering, light- to medium-bodied white offers a        snappy acidity enlivening the flavors of baked pineapple,
         fine, tightly knit range of nectarine, pink grapefruit gran-  spun honey and preserved lemon, showing a touch of
         ita, herb and grated ginger flavors, layered with a miner-   thyme. Creamy, offering a hint of smoke on the finish.
         ally overtone of petrol and smoke. Bright and expressive,    Drink now through 2027. 370 cases made, 100 cases
         with the lively flavors echoing on the lasting finish. Drink   imported.—A.N.
         now through 2030.—A.N.
                                                                      91  Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2016  $28
         92  J.-B. Adam Gewürztraminer Alsace Les Na-                 Beeswax and crushed pine notes are layered with poached
         tures 2018  $28  Silky and light- to medium-bodied,          apple, Marcona almond and lemon curd flavors in this
         this restrained version seems too subtle at first, but then   dry, medium-bodied version, framed by sleek acidity and
         the finely meshed flavors of green melon, lychee, carda-     petrol-laced minerality. Drink now through 2026. 12,000
         mom and pink grapefruit sorbet develop, enlivened by         cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—A.N.
         sleek acidity and expanding through to the mineral-driven
         finish. Drink now through 2025. 800 cases made, 80 cases     91  Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2017  $25  A sleek,
         imported.—A.N.                                               minerally white, with well-cut acidity defining flavors of
                                                                      white peach, pine and preserved lemon, showing a rich
         92  Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve Person-               hint of passion fruit coulis. Fine and creamy, offering a
         nelle 2016  $45  Bright and well-knit, this medium-          lasting finish. Drink now through 2027. 30,000 cases
         bodied white offers a silky mix of crushed almond, poached   made, 7,000 cases imported.—A.N.
         peach, lemon pâte de fruit and herb flavors. Well-cut and
         minerally  on  the  subtle,  lingering  finish.  Drink  now   90  Wolfberger Gewürztraminer  Alsace  2018
         through 2026. 4,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.N.     $17  A textbook version, hitting the mark by balancing
                                                                      dry, zesty, ripe and juicy elements, this is medium-bodied,
         92  Trimbach Riesling Alsace Sélection de Vie-               offering a spicy mineral underpinning layered with lychee,
         illes Vignes 2016  $37  Fresh and minerally, with lots       white peach, rose petal and candied pink grapefruit peel
         of petrol and pine details accenting the crunchy pear,       flavors that linger on the clean-cut finish. Drink now
         crushed almond and lemon pith notes. Creamy on the           through 2025. 6,200 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
         palate and tightly knit, driven by racy acidity that creates
         a mouthwatering impression on the lasting finish. Drink      89  Trimbach Pinot Blanc Alsace 2017  $20  A
         now  through  2026.  2,000  cases  made,  300  cases         zesty white, with a stony underpinning, this is light-bodied
         imported.—A.N.                                               and fresh, offering notes of ripe green apple, grated ginger
                                                                      and Meyer lemon zest. Offers a snappy, floral finish. Drink
         92  Weinbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2017  $37                 now  through  2022.  20,000  cases  made,  9,000  cases
         A sleek, creamy, medium-bodied white, with well-cut          imported.—A.N.
         acidity and a citrusy overtone of blood orange and pink
         grapefruit,  this  harmonious  version  offers  stone-  and   89  Alsace Willm Riesling Alsace Réserve 2017
         smoke-laced minerality and flavors of Honeycrisp apple,      $16  A bright, minerally, light-bodied white, offering a
         elderflower and grated ginger. Drink now through 2027.       creamy range of yellow plum, preserved lemon, delicate
         436 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.                     spice, sage and petrol notes. Clean-cut finish. Drink now
                                                                      through  2023.  12,500  cases  made,  7,500  cases
         92  Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer  Alsace                    imported.—A.N.
         Roche Roulée 2017  $44  A rich, dry version, with a
         powerful frame of finely honed acidity and a streak of spicy   88  Alsace Willm Brut Blanc de Blancs Crémant
         mineral, this shows a well-meshed range of baked peach       d’Alsace NV  $14  A bright and balanced sparkler, with
         and persimmon fruit, lemon thyme and grated ginger fla-      vivacious acidity and a lively bead carrying flavors of Hon-
         vors. Long and creamy on the mineral-driven finish. Drink    eycrisp apple, pickled ginger, nectarine and honeysuckle.
         now through 2032. 52 cases imported.—A.N.                    Spice and mineral accents show on the finish. Drink now.
                                                                      19,000 cases made, 7,500 cases imported.—A.N.
         92  Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru
         Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Urbain 2017  $108  A                FRANCE
         minerally white, with graphite, stone and smoke accents
         underscoring the crunchy white peach, pink grapefruit        Burgundy / White
         granita and almond blossom notes. Dry and medium-bod-
         ied, this finely knit, mouthwatering white should open       97  Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet 2017
         nicely with short-term aging. Best from 2022 through         $600  See Collectibles, page 101.
         2030. 10 cases imported.—A.N.
                                                                      95  Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les
         92  Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Roche                   Vergers 2017  $140  Starts out with plenty of flesh,
         Roulée 2017  $44  Broad and creamy, this medium-             featuring apricot and lime flavors, with a hint of the sea,
         bodied white features a silky palate of baked pear and       before firming up and revealing a racy side as this winds
         apricot fruit, orange peel, honeysuckle and blanched al-     down on the long finish. Shows a lot of energy. Drink now
         mond flavors, backed by sleek, well-knit acidity. Miner-     through 2027. 80 cases imported.—B.S.
         ally notes of smoke and stone play on the creamy finish.                                                                                        Seek Spy.
         Drink now through 2027. 52 cases imported.—A.N.              94  Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos
                                                                      de la Maltroie 2017  $140  Plush, evoking butterscotch,
         92  Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Turck-                  vanilla, clove and nutmeg top notes wrapped around a                               Find why.
         heim Heimbourg 2017  $66  Notes of ripe yellow               core of peach and apple flavors. Firms up on the finish,
         peach, pomegranate, grated ginger and lemon thyme are        but a year or two in bottle should help this find equilib-
         bright and expressive in this harmonious, medium-bodied      rium. A smoky mineral element adds depth. Best from                  Family owned // Sustainably crafted
         white. A core of flavor deftly swathes the firm frame of     2021 through 2027. 100 cases imported.—B.S.                                      For wine lovers
         racy acidity and stony minerality. Drink now through
         2030.—A.N.                                                   94  Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les                            spyvalleywine.co.nz // #seekspy
                                                                      Chaumées Clos de la Truffière 2017  $140  A lush,
         91  Domaine Allimant-Laugner Gewürztraminer                  creamy style, this white offers charming flavors of peach,
         Alsace 2017  $16  A lively, medium-bodied white, with        lime blossom, butterscotch and mineral. Despite the sup-
         firm acidity providing fine cut and balance, this offers yel-  ple texture, this features underlying acidity and terrific      ENJOY OUR WINES RESPONSIBLY. THANK YOU.
         low  peach  and  preserved  lemon  flavors,  accented  by    length. Drink now through 2025. 70 cases imported.—B.S.           ©2019 Spy Valley Wines, Marlborough, New Zealand
         crushed pine and mineral notes. Drink now through 2025.                                                                        Imported by Broadbent Selections, Inc.
         1,800 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.                                                                                     www.broadbent.com







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