Page 116 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 116
New Releases: France
94 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 92 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape A 94 A. Clape Cornas Renaissance 2016 $90
$70 Supple and alluring in feel, with a silky edge to the La Gloire de Mon Grand-Père 2017 $79 Soft and Winey, with an intense core of steeped black currant, bit-
mix of anise, plum sauce and raspberry pâte de fruit fla- gentle-edged, with plush raspberry and plum fruit flavors, ter plum and warm fig fruit flavors, backed by a range of
vors. A twinge of roasted apple wood shows on the finish, infused with mulling spice, rooibos tea and lavender notes. charcoal, singed alder, bay leaf, cast iron and dark olive
followed by an echo of lavender. Displays lovely range. An underlying juiciness helps lengthen the finish. A ten- notes. Has a grippy edge, but this remains very well-inte-
The texture makes this approachable now, though there’s der, charming, old-school style. Drink now through 2033. grated, revealing a steady, precise finish. Best from 2021
no rush. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. Drink 100 cases imported.—J.M. through 2040.—J.M.
now through 2038. 700 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 94 Eric & Joël Durand Cornas Confidence 2017
94 Domaine Tour St.-Michel Châteauneuf-du- Cuvée Tradition 2017 $55 Fresh and forward, featur- $70 Well-packed, featuring fig, steeped black currant
Pape Feminessance 2017 $80 Bold, with a dark ing lively raspberry and cassis flavors, infused with light and dark plum fruit flavors that slowly meld with warm
and ripe core of blackberry, boysenberry and fig pâte de savory, anise and black tea notes. A subtle mineral streak cast iron, dark olive and earth notes. Shows tannic drive
fruit notes, liberally laced with graphite, Christmas pud- adds a mouthwatering echo on the stylish finish. Gre- through the finish, with sanguine and floral echoes add-
ding and licorice snap details. A roasted apple wood frame nache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now ing range and contrast to the muscular profile. Best from
harnesses all the elements as this pumps through the richly through 2034. 250 cases imported.—J.M. 2022 through 2040. 140 cases made, 30 cases
textured finish. Grenache and Syrah. Best from 2022 imported.—J.M.
through 2040. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M. 92 Lucien & André Brunel Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Les Cailloux 2016 $55 Very expressive, with 94 Ferraton Père & Fils Cornas Les Grands Mûri-
93 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 $50 currant, raspberry, damson plum and cherry flavors burst- ers 2017 $62 Lively, with a bramble note amid the
Black cherry and blackberry fruit leads the way here, fol- ing forth, laced with red licorice and floral notes. A racy core of steeped raspberry and blackberry fruit, giving this
lowed quickly by subtle notes of bay leaf, singed cedar, iron streak zips up the finish. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah a juicy and grippy feel. Extra licorice root, sweet tobacco
warm earth and chestnut. The smoldering finish has good and Cinsault. Best from 2020 through 2037. 575 cases and roasted apple wood accents fill in throughout. A mod-
grip, showing some old-school character. Best from 2020 imported.—J.M. ern take on Cornas that doesn’t neglect the savory side.
through 2035. 1,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—J.M. Best from 2021 through 2040. 400 cases made, 50 cases
92 Delas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Haute Pierre imported.—J.M.
93 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 $52 Ripe, featuring silky raspberry and damson
Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes 2017 $85 Ripe plum flavors swirling around, flecked with bright floral, 94 Julien Pilon Cornas L’Élégance du Caillou
and warm in feel, with creamed raspberry, plum and black- rooibos tea and dried garrigue notes. Offers a subtle, per- 2017 $65 A ripe, fleshy, expressive style, with warm
berry fruit flavors gliding through, underscored by subtle sistent finish, showing lots of charm. Grenache and Syrah. fig and blackberry compote notes forming the core, while
garrigue, shiso leaf and rooibos tea notes. The plush finish Best from 2020 through 2035. 250 cases imported.—J.M. licorice root, anise and sweet tapenade flavors define the
lets an iron accent peek in. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvè- background. Fruit-driven overall, but this reveals a vibrant
dre. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases imported.—J.M. 92 Pierre-Henri Morel Châteauneuf-du-Pape chalky streak through the finish, keeping this grounded.
2017 $46 Friendly cherry and plum paste flavors give Best from 2021 through 2038. 183 cases made, 35 cases
93 André Brunel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016 this an extroverted profile, while anise, fruitcake and imported.—J.M.
$46 Perfumy sandalwood and sanguine notes lead off, roasted apple wood notes add range and detail through
followed closely by supple red currant, cherry and damson the finish. Shows good juicy energy from start to finish. 93 Maison Les Alexandrins Cornas 2017 $68
fruit flavors. Silky and refined through the finish, with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through Lively, with bright red currant and damson plum fruit,
garrigue, shiso leaf and cedar accents chiming through. 2035. 800 cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M. carried by racy acidity and lilting floral notes. Shows a
Best from 2021 through 2036. 3,000 cases made, 300 cases mouthwatering chalky streak and a twang of iron on the
imported.—J.M. 92 Domaine Tour St.-Michel Châteauneuf-du- finish, giving this a fresh and pure feel. Best from 2021
Pape Cuvée des Deux Soeurs 2017 $50 Fresh dam- through 2038. 25 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Château de Montfaucon Châteauneuf-du- son plum and cherry notes give this a red fruit profile,
Pape Baron de Montfaucon 2017 $35 Bright, with with hints of rose petal, blood orange and sandalwood 93 Domaine Courbis Cornas Champelrose 2017
cherry, damson plum and raspberry coulis flavors stream- peeking through. Reserved in style, but an underlying $55 Savory, bay leaf and white pepper notes lead the
ing through, flanked by floral and rooibos tea hints and mineral hint imparts a racy echo on the finish. Grenache way, chased by red currant and plum fruit. Lively, offering
carrying through a racy, sanguine-tinged finish that is and Syrah. Drink now through 2035. 1,250 cases made, a light bramble edge, with olive accents piercing through
sneakily long. Well done. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Best 400 cases imported.—J.M. the juicy finish. All the elements are carried by a chalky
from 2020 through 2035. 650 cases made, 150 cases underpinning. Best from 2020 through 2035. 2,000 cases
imported.—J.M. made, 200 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
93 Château Sixtine Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 Rhône / Cornas 93 Eric & Joël Durand Cornas Empreintes 2017
$60 Dark currant, warmed fig and blackberry compote $50 Solidly built, with a strong chalky spine buried
flavors mix in this richly layered version, with hints of 98 A. Clape Cornas 2016 $150 See Collectibles, deep in the core of dark plum and blackberry fruit. Smol-
ganache, licorice root and singed alder weaving through. page 101. dering tobacco, dark olive and warm cast iron accents fill
Shows heft but maintains juicy energy for balance. Very in throughout. Frankly grippy, so some patience in the
solid. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2021 96 Ferraton Père & Fils Cornas Lieu-Dit Les Ey- cellar is required. Best from 2022 through 2040. 800 cases
through 2038. 2,550 cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M. gats 2017 $82 Sappy and dense, featuring lots of kirsch made, 90 cases imported.—J.M.
notes at the core, with mouthwatering licorice snap and
93 Domaine Tour St.-Michel Châteauneuf-du- bramble elements keeping pace. Flecks of savory and san- 93 Lautaret Cornas Emotion 2017 $48 Features
Pape Cuvée du Lion 2017 $60 Rich and warm in guine hang in the background. A chalky bolt runs through a bright, fresh feel despite the obvious ripeness, as violet
feel, with steeped fig, blackberry and plum fruit gliding the finish, remaining well-absorbed in the fruit but giving and savory notes guide a core of plum and black cherry
along, layered with warm fruitcake, melted red licorice clear definition along the way. Best from 2022 through puree flavors along. The sleek, iron-edged finish is mouth-
and sandalwood accents. A subtle garrigue note echoes 2040. 150 cases made, 30 cases imported.—J.M. watering, with flecks of lavender and white pepper peek-
through the background and finish. Grenache, Syrah and ing in. Best from 2020 through 2032. 200 cases made, 50
Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through 2037. 1,000 cases 95 Delas Cornas Chante-Perdrix 2017 $60 cases imported.—J.M.
made, 200 cases imported.—J.M. Racy and chiseled in feel, with a vibrant chalky mineral-
ity running from start to finish, giving this bristling energy 93 Les Vins de Vienne Cornas Lieu-Dit St.-Pierre
93 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 as red currant, damson plum, lilac and savory notes cruise 2017 $80 A ripe, vivid, fruit-driven version, with a
$70 Solidly built, with a core of warm plum and black through. The long finish delivers a piercing sanguine ac- blast of plum, cassis and raspberry puree flavors, framed
cherry preserve flavors, enhanced by lavender, anise and cent, and the minerality just won’t quit. Best from 2021 by light rose petal, savory and chalk accents. Streamlined,
black tea notes that flash throughout. Stays fresh and fo- through 2040. 996 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M. showing lovely cut and freshness. Best from 2021 through
cused through the finish. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre 2032. 200 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.
and Cinsault. Best from 2020 through 2035. 700 cases 95 Ferraton Père & Fils Cornas Lieu-Dit Patou
imported.—J.M. 2017 $64 Ripe and juicy, with lots of fig, blackberry 92 Eric & Joël Durand Cornas Prémices 2017
and black currant fruit pumping through, laced liberally $40 Offers a ripe, slightly toasty profile, featuring plum
93 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf-du- with anise, savory, cast iron and singed alder notes. The and blackberry fruit, tinged with ganache and alder notes.
Pape 2016 $40 Ripe and forward in feel, featuring fruit and grip meld steadily through the finish. Very fo- Shows some heft, with the toast clinging to the finish. A
crushed raspberry and blackberry compote notes, mixed cused. Best from 2021 through 2040. 200 cases made, 20 light violet echo gives this some needed lift at the end.
with red licorice, blood orange, rooibos tea and fruitcake cases imported.—J.M. Best from 2020 through 2030. 875 cases made, 120 cases
hints. Silky from start to finish, with a subtle sanguine imported.—J.M.
thread lacing up the finish. Very enticing. Best from
2020 through 2037. 16,000 cases made, 2,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
110 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
