Page 115 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: France

91 Domaine Chevreau Sancerre Les Terres 96 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Juline 95 Diffonty & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée
Blanches 2018 $25 Savory, featuring herbal and min- 2017 $100 This is well-packed, with a sizable core of du Vatican 2016 $43 This has the vivid, intense ripe
eral notes behind white peach and grapefruit flavors. warm raspberry coulis and plum reduction flavors cruising fruit of the vintage, with plum, boysenberry and black-
Shows a bit of a grip midpalate, with savory minerality through slowly and steadily, pulling anise, black tea and berry flavors coursing through, underscored by licorice
lingering on the finish. Well-balanced and complex, ex- shiso leaf notes along. Richly layered through the lengthy snap, apple wood and fruitcake accents. Dense, showing
hibiting great intensity and focus. Drink now through finish. A very pure and large-scale expression of Grenache. terrific cut and drive on the finish. Built for the cellar,
2026. 950 cases imported.—A.Z. Best from 2020 through 2040. 300 cases made, 50 cases revealing a buried iron note. Grenache, Syrah and
imported.—J.M. Mourvèdre. Best from 2022 through 2038. 1,500 cases
90 Marc Brédif Chinon 2018 96 Lucien & André Brunel Châteauneuf-du- made, 200 cases imported.—J.M.
$20 A pure, elegant style, offer- Pape Les Cailloux Cuvée Centenaire 2016 $230 95 Domaine Ferrando Châteauneuf-du-Pape
ing notes of dark cherry, bay leaf and A seductive style, with supple-edged sandalwood, rooibos Colombis 2017 $102 Ripe and friendly, with an ex-
tobacco. Well-structured, with fresh tea, mulled raspberry and plum notes all melded together pressive core of raspberry, plum and cherry pâte de fruit
acidity keeping everything together. atop a very silky but persistent structure. Sneakily long, flavors streaming through, laced with anise hints and sup-
Hints of coffee emerge midpalate as with a latent tarry echo and whiff of garrigue on the fin- ported by a well-embedded graphite streak. Shows juicy
this flows into a lasting finish. Drink ish. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Best from 2020 through energy throughout. Best from 2020 through 2040. 750
now through 2028. 388 cases BARON PATRICK 2040. 250 cases made, 60 cases imported.—J.M. cases made, 150 cases imported.—J.M.
DE LADOUCETTE
imported.—A.Z. Owner
95 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du- 95 Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 Clos de la Grange Sauvignon Touraine 2018 Pape 2017 $112 A dark and winey style, offering a Le Plateau 2016 $180 Densely packed, with the ripe,
$16 An atypical version, with a gorgeous mix of orchard mix of plum, black currant and black cherry notes, infused vivid dark fruit of the vintage, as plum, blackberry, black
blossom, yellow apple and elderflower flavors, showing with black tea, fruitcake and anise accents. Solidly built, currant and fig notes course through, carried by a deeply
hints of lemon. Elegant yet very expressive, driven by vi- vibrant and energetic from start to finish, this carries co- embedded graphite spine. Warm ganache, singed tobacco,
brant acidity and a minerally backbone. Turns savory on pious fruit easily through the lengthy finish. Grenache, Turkish coffee and roasted alder elements hang in the
the well-defined finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,200 Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Best from 2020 background. Offers a long, rich finish. Really well-built.
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.Z. through 2040. 3,500 cases imported.—J.M. Best from 2022 through 2040. 13 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Domaine de Pallus Chinon Messanges 2018 95 Delas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Haute Pierre 94 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée La
$15 A silky red, with a charming core of damson plum, 2016 $52 Ripe and racy, featuring graphite streaks that Côte Ronde 2017 $85 Dark and winey, featuring lots
black pepper and rosemary. The acidity here binds every- underscore a core of bright, fresh plum, raspberry, cherry of currant, fig and blackberry compote notes stuffed to-
thing together, while the light tannins add a bit of firm- and blackberry fruit. Exhibits lots of range, with black tea, gether, with hints of ganache, tobacco and roasted alder
ness to the structure. Well-balanced and juicy, this would singed alder and warm earth notes emerging on the fin- filling in around them. A warm earth accent runs through
be great with food now. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 ish. Grenache and Syrah. Best from 2022 through 2039. the finish, which exhibits grip and drive. Rock-solid. Best
cases made.—A.Z. 1,091 cases made.—J.M. from 2022 through 2037. 750 cases made, 200 cases
imported.—J.M.
89 Domaine Les Pins Bourgueil Le Clos 2018
$20 A velvety red, with notes of violet, mulberry and
tarragon mingling at the core, underscored by lively acid-
ity, which gives this freshness. Medium tannins get a little
grippy on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2027. 3,000
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.Z.

88 Auguste Bonhomme Vouvray La Forcine
2018 $16 A charming version, showing great elegance
and an expressive palate, exhibiting notes of yellow apple,
ripe pear and honeysuckle. Well-built, with a seductive
finish. Drink now through 2024. 8,000 cases made, 2,500
cases imported.—A.Z.

88 Gratien & Meyer Brut Crémant de Loire NV
$18 This features notes of poached pear and yellow ap-
ple, enlivened by firm acidity and a creamy mousse. Mod-
erate length. Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet
Franc. Drink now. 70,000 cases made, 1,500 cases
imported.—A.Z.

88 de Ladoucette Sauvignon Blanc Touraine
Les Deux Tours 2018 $19 This shows notes of goose-
berry and clementine at the core, underscored by hints of
sea salt and ground ginger. Shows intensity, with moder-
ate length. Drink now. 2,232 cases imported.—A.Z.

87 Gratien & Meyer Brut Rosé Crémant de Loire
NV $18 Expressive, with notes of passion fruit and
white raspberry up front, showing a soft mousse and subtle
sea salt accents on the finish. Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 3,500
cases imported.—A.Z.

FRANCE

Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Red

97 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 2016 $708 See
Collectibles, page 101.

JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 109