Page 114 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)

New Releases: France
93 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Clos
St.-Jean 2017 $140 Intense aromas of lime blossom,
white peach, oyster shell and smoke introduce this sleek,
vibrant white. Creamy in texture and harmonious, this
finishes with echoes of white flowers, lime and pastry.
Drink now through 2024. 70 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Hameau
de Blagny 2017 $130 A broad, fleshy version, per-
meated by peach, apple pie, lemon and spice flavors. The
creamy texture is offset by lively acidity and the finish
echoes the spice elements. Drink now through 2024. 145
cases made, 55 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Étienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet La
Garenne 2017 $130 The peach and apple flavors are
wrapped in butter and baking spice notes in this rich, al-
most creamy white. Harmonious and charming enough
to be enjoyable now, yet there is good cut underneath and
fine length. Drink now through 2024. 500 cases made, 95
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-St.-Georges White
Clos de l’Arlot 2017 $115 Gently oaky, this white
features honey, peach, apple and pastry aromas and
flavors, married to a creamy texture and exhibiting fine
harmony and balance overall. Excellent length rounds
out the profile. Drink now through 2024. 236 cases
made.—B.S.
92 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 2017
$90 A generous white in terms of both texture and fla-
vor. Peach, lemon cake, butterscotch and pastry notes
abound, backed by lively acidity that meshes seamlessly
with the rich profile. Long and balanced. Drink now
through 2023. 250 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Étienne Sauzet Beaune Les Pertuisots 2017
$75 A lean, racy style, this delivers lemon tart, apple
and chalky, minerally notes. Mouthwatering and long on
the finish. Drink now through 2024. 70 cases made, 70
cases imported.—B.S.
91 Bouchard Père & Fils Rully 2017 $25 The
peach, apple and citrus flavors get an appealing lift from
the oak treatment, lending more pastry accents than ob-
vious vanilla and spice notes. Shows fine harmony and a
creamy texture that winds down slowly on the finish.
Drink now through 2024. 120 cases imported.—B.S.
FRANCE
Languedoc-Roussillon
92 Gérard Bertrand La Clape Château des
Karantes Grand Vin 2017 $50 A suave, concentrated
red, with rich undertones of mocha and baker’s chocolate
flanking the blackberry tart and red plum reduction notes.
Accents of black tea, garrigue and mineral chime in on
the structured finish. Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and
Carignan. Drink now through 2030. 60,000 cases made,
30,000 cases imported.—G.S.
90 Gérard Bertrand Pays d’Oc White Cigalus
2018 $50 Floral and honey cream aromas mark the
ripe white peach, lemon and mango flavors in this lush,
medium- to full-bodied white, with details of baking spice,
toast and vanilla echoing on the wet stone finish.
Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink
now through 2024. 5,000 cases made, 1,200 cases
imported.—G.S.
89 Gérard Bertrand Grenache-Syrah-Mourvè-
dre Corbières 2017 $19 Ripe raspberry and cherry
flavors are fresh and concentrated in this full-bodied red,
with accents of black tea, baking spice and iron lending
depth through the plush, peppery finish. Grenache, Syrah
and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2024. 18,000 cases
made, 6,000 cases imported.—G.S.
108 WINE SPECTATOR • JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020
88 Gérard Bertrand Chardonnay Pays d’Oc Cote
des Roses 2018 $18 Creamy peach and apple notes
mark this spicy, floral-tinged white, with light touches of
vanilla and honey on the supple finish. Drink now through
2022. 25,000 cases made, 10,000 cases imported.—G.S.
88 Domaine Gayda Grenache Blanc-Viognier
Pays d’Oc Flying Solo 2018 $10 A fresh, easy-sip-
ping white, with peach, pineapple and apple fruit, focused
by lively energy through the mineral, spice and heather
notes on the finish. Grenache Blanc and Viognier. Drink
now. 10,000 cases made, 2,300 cases imported.—G.S.
87 Domaine Lafage Côtes Catalanes Rosé Mi-
raflors 2018 $19 A plump rosé, with cherry and rasp-
berry fruit, accented by anise and spice details through
the tangy finish, marked by wet stone and floral elements.
Mourvèdre, Grenache Gris and Grenache. Drink now.
22,000 cases made, 22,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Château d’Aussières Chardonnay Pays d’Oc
2018 $14 Undertones of wet stone and dried herb flank
the peach and apple notes of this firm, light- to medium-
bodied white, with savory spice details on the finish. Drink
now. 20,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
86 Château d’Aussières Pays d’Oc 2017 $14
Fruit-forward and fresh flavors of black cherry and rasp-
berry are detailed by tea, underbrush and spice notes in
this medium-bodied red, with moderately integrated tan-
nins. Syrah, Marselan, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2023. 80,000 cases
made, 3,000 cases imported.—G.S.
FRANCE
Loire
93 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Le Haut de
la Butte 2018 $29 This has a smoldering profile, with
bay leaf, tobacco and loam notes opening up to black ol-
ive, currant and cedar details that follow closely behind.
Shows great harmony now, but the tannins could soften
up a bit, which should be no problem with some time in
the cellar. Delivers lots of character and energy. Best from
2022 through 2032. 400 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente
2017 $40 This shows an impressive range, featuring
dark olive, black currant and damson plum flavors run-
ning through, with support from a chalky spine, well-in-
tegrated tannins and lively acidity. Loam and underbrush
notes glide along, adding complexity and charm. Still a
bit tight, but should open up in a few years. Best from
2022 through 2032. 600 cases made.—A.Z.
93 Patrice Moreux Pouilly-Fumé La Loge Aux
Moines 2017 $45 An intriguing, ripe version, offer-
ing exotic notes of Asian pear, papaya and baked pine-
apple, with plenty of spice and floral accents that add to
the complexity. Velvety in texture, showing a bit weight,
but the acidity cuts through and gives this a sense of fresh-
ness and elegance. Drink now through 2028. 750 cases
made, 60 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Fournier Père & Fils Sancerre Les Bouffants
2015 $55 Shows a smoky tinge, with herbal and spice
accents surrounding the lemon curd, grapefruit and green
peach flavors. Turns savory midpalate and stays that way,
lingering with sea salt accents on the finish. Complex,
intense and well-developed. Drink now through 2025.
500 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Francis Blanchet Pouilly-Fumé Cuvée Silice
2018 $20 Elegant and mineral-driven, with beautiful
cut to the gooseberry, lilac and quince flavors. White pep-
per and coriander notes emerge midpalate, as this goes
toward a richly spiced finish that draws you in for another
sip. Drink now through 2027. 1,000 cases made, 450 cases
imported.—A.Z.