Page 117 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
P. 117
New Releases: France
FRANCE the very end. Best from 2022 through 2036. 176 cases 93 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Fongeant 2015
imported.—J.M.
Rhône / Côte-Rôtie $193 This offers up a ripe and captivating core of steeped
94 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Le Champon plum and warm cassis flavors, underscored by an iron note,
98 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Belle Hélène 2015 $193 Winey in feel, with a sappy edge to the cas- with hints of mesquite, black tea and bay leaf flirting in
2015 $552 Dense and grippy at the start, with a cast sis, fresh plum and blackberry reduction flavors that hold the background. Best from 2022 through 2035. 176 cases
iron note leading off, this quickly turns racy overall, as sway from start to finish, supported by a racy graphite ac- imported.—J.M.
mouthwatering acidity lets a range of red and black cent and notes of smoldering cast iron and juniper on the 93 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Mon Village 2016
currant and blackberry fruit play out through the finish grippy finish. Rock-solid. Best from 2023 through 2037. $82 An alluring style, with concentrated cassis and
against a backdrop of bay leaf, savory, licorice root, 176 cases imported.—J.M. plum puree flavors that move gracefully as the silky struc-
espresso cream and baker’s chocolate. Built for the 94 Les Vins de Vienne Côte-Rôtie Lieu-Dit Les ture and perfumy black tea and bergamot notes flitter
long haul. Best from 2025 through 2042. 35 cases Grandes Places 2017 $110 The lively dark cherry, through. The long, refined finish features subtle, linger-
imported.—J.M. plum and black currant fruit shows a briary hint but stays ing minerality. Best from 2022 through 2033. 200 cases
97 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Côte-Blonde sleek and racy overall, with a strong graphite edge power- imported.—J.M.
2015 $552 Solidly built, with a warm cast iron note ing the finish as tobacco, juniper and dark earth accents 93 Les Vins de Vienne Côte-Rôtie Les Essar-
that runs from start to finish, accompanied by dark cur- filter through. Best from 2022 through 2038. 250 cases tailles 2017 $88 Ripe and dark, but also fresh, racy
rant, fig and plum paste flavors. Steeped anise, smolder- made, 30 cases imported.—J.M. and piercing in feel, with sleek black currant and plum
ing gunpowder tea and bergamot accents add nuance 93 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cognet 2015 notes that are laced with mouthwatering minerality and
throughout. Grippy for sure, but the fruit easily soaks it $193 A bright, high-pitched version, with red currant backed by subtle bay leaf, tobacco and olive hints. Fea-
all up in the end. Best from 2024 through 2040. 20 cases and damson plum notes, laced with lilac and rose petal tures a long, finely tuned finish. Best from 2022 through
imported.—J.M. hints and carried by a vibrant mineral streak. A light ju- 2035. 624 cases made, 250 cases imported.—J.M.
niper echo fills in through the finish. Best from 2022
97 Stéphane Ogier Côte- through 2035. 176 cases imported.—J.M.
Rôtie Lancement 2015 $552
Fresh and pure, with a beautiful
stream of red currant, loganberry
and damson plum fruit spilling
forth, pierced by a bright iron note. The Spanish Wine Event
Flecks of savory, bay leaf, bergamot
and juniper fill in throughout. The
finish is silky yet mouthwatering.
Best from 2023 through 2040. 10 STÉPHANE OGIER
cases imported.—J.M. Owner & Winemaker
96 Delas Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2017 $300
Very well-built, with sleek and clearly defined cassis and
blackberry fruit racing along, supported by a smoldering
cast iron note and flanked by dark tobacco and fresh bay
leaf hints. The long, mouthwatering finish features a white
pepper echo swirling around as the fruit and minerality
meld. Best from 2022 through 2040. 227 cases made.—J.M.
96 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Vialliere 2015
$193 Features an exotic hint, with a lush wave of steeped
currant, fig and boysenberry fruit coursing through,
flanked with graphite edges and backed by singed juniper,
black tea, anise, violet and cast iron notes on the finish.
Shows muscle and grace, delivering excellent range. Best
from 2023 through 2040. 176 cases imported.—J.M.
96 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Montmain 2015
$176 Expressive, featuring a mix of raspberry, damson BWW
plum, black currant and fig fruit, infused with perfumy
black tea and juniper hints and grippier tar and cast iron
notes. Terrific acidity is thoroughly embedded through-
out, letting this carry its heft with a confident stride. Best
from 2023 through 2040. 193 cases imported.—J.M.
BARCELONA WINE WEEK
95 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Côte-Bodin 2015
$193 Dark and youthfully reticent, showing brooding 3-5.02.20
black currant, fig and blackberry flavors at the core,
encased in tobacco, fresh humus, espresso cream and
bay leaf notes, all supported by graphite girders through
the finish. Best from 2023 through 2038. 176 cases
imported.—J.M.
95 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Réserve 2015
$151 Features dark currant, fig and boysenberry preserve
flavors that are densely concentrated and supported by
authoritative grip built on graphite and cast iron accents.
Ganache, black tea, singed bay leaf and juniper notes add
detail and range through the finish, where latent miner-
ality lurks in reserve. Best from 2025 through 2040. 200
cases imported.—J.M.
94 Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Bertholon 2015
$193 This shows a lush edge, as cassis, plum sauce and #barcelonawineweek
blackberry compote notes unfurl slowly, carried by warm www.barcelonawineweek.com
ganache and bay leaf accents. Ample grip runs under-
neath, with a hint of cast iron keeping this grounded at
JAN. 31 – FEB. 29, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 111

