Page 117 - Wine Spectator (January 2020)
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New Releases: France


         FRANCE                                                       the very end. Best from 2022 through 2036. 176 cases         93  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Fongeant 2015
                                                                      imported.—J.M.
         Rhône / Côte-Rôtie                                                                                                        $193  This offers up a ripe and captivating core of steeped
                                                                      94  Stéphane  Ogier Côte-Rôtie  Le  Champon                  plum and warm cassis flavors, underscored by an iron note,
         98  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Belle Hélène                2015  $193  Winey in feel, with a sappy edge to the cas-     with hints of mesquite, black tea and bay leaf flirting in
         2015  $552  Dense and grippy at the start, with a cast       sis, fresh plum and blackberry reduction flavors that hold   the background. Best from 2022 through 2035. 176 cases
         iron note leading off, this quickly turns racy overall, as   sway from start to finish, supported by a racy graphite ac-  imported.—J.M.
         mouthwatering  acidity  lets  a  range  of  red  and  black    cent and notes of smoldering cast iron and juniper on the   93  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Mon Village 2016
         currant and blackberry fruit play out through the finish     grippy finish. Rock-solid. Best from 2023 through 2037.      $82  An alluring style, with concentrated cassis and
         against  a  backdrop  of  bay  leaf,  savory,  licorice  root,   176 cases imported.—J.M.                                 plum puree flavors that move gracefully as the silky struc-
         espresso  cream  and  baker’s  chocolate.  Built  for  the    94  Les Vins de Vienne Côte-Rôtie Lieu-Dit Les              ture and perfumy black tea and bergamot notes flitter
         long  haul.  Best  from  2025  through  2042.  35  cases     Grandes Places 2017  $110  The lively dark cherry,           through. The long, refined finish features subtle, linger-
         imported.—J.M.                                               plum and black currant fruit shows a briary hint but stays   ing minerality. Best from 2022 through 2033. 200 cases

         97  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Côte-Blonde                 sleek and racy overall, with a strong graphite edge power-   imported.—J.M.
         2015  $552  Solidly built, with a warm cast iron note        ing the finish as tobacco, juniper and dark earth accents    93  Les Vins de Vienne Côte-Rôtie Les Essar-
         that runs from start to finish, accompanied by dark cur-     filter through. Best from 2022 through 2038. 250 cases       tailles 2017  $88  Ripe and dark, but also fresh, racy
         rant, fig and plum paste flavors. Steeped anise, smolder-    made, 30 cases imported.—J.M.                                and piercing in feel, with sleek black currant and plum
         ing gunpowder tea and bergamot accents add nuance            93  Stéphane  Ogier Côte-Rôtie  Cognet  2015                 notes that are laced with mouthwatering minerality and
         throughout. Grippy for sure, but the fruit easily soaks it   $193  A bright, high-pitched version, with red currant       backed by subtle bay leaf, tobacco and olive hints. Fea-
         all up in the end. Best from 2024 through 2040. 20 cases     and damson plum notes, laced with lilac and rose petal       tures a long, finely tuned finish. Best from 2022 through
         imported.—J.M.                                               hints and carried by a vibrant mineral streak. A light ju-   2035. 624 cases made, 250 cases imported.—J.M.

                                                                      niper echo fills in through the finish. Best from 2022
         97  Stéphane  Ogier Côte-                                    through 2035. 176 cases imported.—J.M.
         Rôtie  Lancement  2015  $552
         Fresh  and  pure,  with  a  beautiful
         stream of red currant, loganberry
         and  damson  plum  fruit  spilling
         forth, pierced by a bright iron note.                                                              The Spanish Wine Event
         Flecks of savory, bay leaf, bergamot
         and juniper fill in throughout. The
         finish is silky yet mouthwatering.
         Best from 2023 through 2040. 10      STÉPHANE OGIER
         cases imported.—J.M.                 Owner & Winemaker


         96  Delas Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2017  $300
         Very well-built, with sleek and clearly defined cassis and
         blackberry fruit racing along, supported by a smoldering
         cast iron note and flanked by dark tobacco and fresh bay
         leaf hints. The long, mouthwatering finish features a white
         pepper echo swirling around as the fruit and minerality
         meld. Best from 2022 through 2040. 227 cases made.—J.M.

         96  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie La Vialliere 2015
         $193  Features an exotic hint, with a lush wave of steeped
         currant,  fig  and  boysenberry  fruit  coursing  through,
         flanked with graphite edges and backed by singed juniper,
         black tea, anise, violet and cast iron notes on the finish.
         Shows muscle and grace, delivering excellent range. Best
         from 2023 through 2040. 176 cases imported.—J.M.

         96  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Montmain 2015
         $176  Expressive, featuring a mix of raspberry, damson                               BWW
         plum, black currant and fig fruit, infused with perfumy
         black tea and juniper hints and grippier tar and cast iron
         notes. Terrific acidity is thoroughly embedded through-
         out, letting this carry its heft with a confident stride. Best
         from 2023 through 2040. 193 cases imported.—J.M.
                                                                                                       BARCELONA WINE WEEK
         95  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Côte-Bodin 2015
         $193  Dark and youthfully reticent, showing brooding                                                          3-5.02.20
         black  currant,  fig  and  blackberry  flavors  at  the  core,
         encased in tobacco, fresh humus, espresso cream and
         bay leaf notes, all supported by graphite girders through
         the  finish.  Best  from  2023  through  2038.  176  cases
         imported.—J.M.

         95  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Réserve 2015
         $151  Features dark currant, fig and boysenberry preserve
         flavors that are densely concentrated and supported by
         authoritative grip built on graphite and cast iron accents.
         Ganache, black tea, singed bay leaf and juniper notes add
         detail and range through the finish, where latent miner-
         ality lurks in reserve. Best from 2025 through 2040. 200
         cases imported.—J.M.
         94  Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Bertholon 2015
         $193  This shows a lush edge, as cassis, plum sauce and                #barcelonawineweek
         blackberry compote notes unfurl slowly, carried by warm                www.barcelonawineweek.com
         ganache and bay leaf accents. Ample grip runs under-
         neath, with a hint of cast iron keeping this grounded at





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