Page 594 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India

592  SOUTH INDIA

Exploring Puducherry Y Botanical Gardens
S of City Bus Stand. &
Often described as a sleepy French provincial town, Lying at the far western end
Puducherry (originally named Pondicherry) retains a of the old Tamil Town, the
distinct Gallic flavour. French is still spoken among the Botanical Gardens, laid out
older residents, while stately colonial mansions stand in in 1826, were designed in
the formal French style with
tree-lined streets that are still known by their colonial clipped trees, flower beds,
names. Even the policemen continue to wear the military- gravel walks and fountains.
style caps, known as kepis. Located on the east coast The French introduced many
of Tamil Nadu, it is the administrative capital of a Union unusual and exotic trees and
Territory that includes the former French enclaves of shrubs from all over India
Mahe in Kerala (see p659), Yanam in Andhra Pradesh and the world, many of
which are still here. With its
and Karaikkal in Tamil Nadu. 1,500 species of plants, this
is one of the best botanical
E Puducherry Museum second floor of the library, is gardens in South India. An
49, Rue St Louis. Tel Director Art open to the public. interesting little aquarium
& Culture, (0413) 233 6236. displays some of the more
Open Tue–Sun. P Romain Rolland Library spectacular marine species
Located in the lovely old Law Tel (0413) 233 6426. Open Mon–Sat. from the Coromandel Coast.
Building, near Government Park,
the Puducherry Museum has an R Basilica of the Sacred P House of Ananda
outstanding collection of Heart of Jesus Rangapillai
artifacts from the French South Boulevard. Open daily. Ananda Rangapillai St. Tel (0413)
colonial period. The rooms A serene atmo sphere 233 5756 for permission to visit.
in one section are cloaks this brown This lavishly furnished
furnished in French and white Neo- house, which was once the
style, and are Gothic basilica, home of an 18th-century
decorated with built in the 1700s. Indian nobleman, offers
marble statuary, Its most interesting fascinating glimpses into
paintings, mirrors features are its large a vanished lifestyle. Now a
and clocks. Prized stained-glass panels museum, the house was
exhibits include the depicting incidents owned by Ananda Rangapillai,
bed that Dupleix from the life of Dupleix’s favourite courtier
slept on when he Jesus Christ, and and dubash (translator).
was the governor, the handsome A perceptive observer and
and a pousse-pousse, arches that span commentator, he maintained a
an earlier version of the nave. Further series of diaries between 1736
the rickshaw. along the southern and 1760, recording his views
The museum boulevard is the of the fluctuating fortunes of
also displays rare cemetery, which the French in India. However,
bronzes and stone has tombs that he displeased Madame
sculptures from the Stained glass, Basilica feature ornate Dupleix, who eventually
Pallava and Chola of the Sacred Heart marble decorations. ousted him from his post.
periods. Among the
artifacts excavated from nearby
Arikamedu, an ancient port Sri Aurobindo Ghose
that had trade links with The firebrand Bengali poet-philosopher,
Imperial Rome, are beads, Aurobindo Ghose, who joined the
amphorae, coins, ornamented struggle for freedom in the early 1900s,
oil lamps, funerary urns and was known for his extremist views. To
fragments of pottery and china. escape from the British, he took refuge in
Inside the same compound the French territory of Puducherry, where
is the Romain Rolland Library. he was drawn into the spiritual realm.
Established in 1872, the library It was here that he studied, wrote about
and popularized the principles of yoga.
now has a rich collection of His disciple, Mirra Alfassa, known later
more than 300,000 volumes, as “The Mother”, was a Parisian mystic,
including many rare editions painter and musician, who first came to Sri Aurobindo (1872–1950)
in both French and English. Puducherry with her husband during
Its mobile library service takes World War I. Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy so inspired her that she
more than 8,000 books in stayed on, and was later instrumental in the establishment of the
a bus to nearby villages. Aurobindo Ashram.
The reference section, on the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18

592-593_EW_India.indd 592 26/04/17 11:49 am
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Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm