Page 598 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - India
P. 598

596      SOUTH  INDIA


                                               sculpture of a seated lion to
                                               a well, believed to have been
                                               filled with Ganges water
                                               for daily rituals.
                                                 The small Archaeological
                                               Museum, near the temple,
                                               exhibits Chola artifacts from
                                               neighbouring sites.

                                                Brihadishvara Temple
                                               Open daily. Museum: Open daily.
                                               q Kumbakonam
                                               Thanjavur district. 74 km (46 miles) SW
                                               of Chidambaram. * 140,100. £ @
                                               n Thanjavur tourist office, (04362)
                                               231 325. _ Nageshvara Temple
                                               Festival (Apr/May), Maha maham
                                               Festival (every 12 years).
                                               Like Kanchipuram (see p586),
                                               Kumbakonam is one of the
                                               most sacred cities in Tamil Nadu.
                                               Located on the southern bank
                                               of the Kaveri river, this is an
                                               ancient city, where, as legend
                                               says, Shiva’s arrow shattered the
                                               cosmic pot (kumbh) containing
       Superb Nataraja sculpture at Gangaikondacholapuram  the divine nectar of creation
                                               (amrit). This myth has given
       0 Gangaikon­        temple is shorter than the one   Kumbakonam both its name
       dacholapuram        at Thanjavur. Adorning the   and sanctity. Today, the city
                           lower walls, columns and niches   represents the traditional
       Tiruchirapalli district. 40 km (25 miles)   are many remarkable sculptural   cultural values of the Tamil
       SW of Chidambaram. @ from   friezes. One of the most out­  heartland. It is also the region’s
       Chidambaram or Kumbakonam.  standing is the panel depicting   main commercial and craft
       Grandly titled Gangaikon­  Shiva blessing Chandesha, a   centre, famous for its textiles,
       dacholapuram, “The City of    pious devotee sculpted to   jewellery, bronze casting and
       the Chola who took the   resemble Rajendra I himself.    the superior quality of its
       Ganges”, this now­modest   The sculptures of the dikpalas   locally grown betel leaves.
       village was the capital of the   (guardians of the eight     It is believed that when the
       powerful Chola dynasty    directions), ekadasas (the    divine nectar emerged from
       (see pp50–51) during the reign   11 forms of Shiva), Saraswati,   the pot, it filled the huge
       of Rajendra I (r.1012–44). A great   Kalyanasundara and Nataraja   Mahamaham Tank. This is
       military commander like his   (see p570) are also splendid   Kumbakonam’s sacred centre
       father Rajaraja I, Rajendra I was   examples of Chola art. Steps   and the site of the great
       the first Tamil ruler to venture   near the small Durga shrine    Mahamaham Festival, held
       northwards. He built this city    in the courtyard lead past a   every 12 years (the last one
       to commemorate his successful
       campaign across the Ganges.
       According to an inscription,
       he then ordered the defeated
       rulers to carry back pots of
       sacred Ganges water on their
       heads to fill the Chola­Ganga
       tank, a victory memorial.
         Except for the magnificent
       Brihadishvara Temple, little
       remains of his capital city.
       Built as a replica of Than javur’s
       Brihadishvara Temple (see
       pp602–603), the towered
       sanctum of this granite Shiva   The 17th-century Adikumbheshvara Temple, Kumbakonam
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp702–703 and pp717–18


   596-597_EW_India.indd   596                              26/04/17   11:49 am
     Eyewitness Travel   LAYERS PRINTED:
     Catalogue template    “UK” LAYER
     (Source v2.6)
     Date 12th July 2013
     Size 125mm x 217mm
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