Page 165 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide: Japan

K Y O T O CIT Y  163

longest wood en structure in 5 Nishi and Higashi
the world. Its name derives Hongan-ji Temples
from the 33 (sanjusan) spaces Nishi and Higashi Honganji Templae
between the building’s pillars.
The main, magnificent image Nishi Hongan-ji: Tel (075) 371-5181.
of a 1,000-armed Kannon @ 9, 28,75 to Nishi Honganji-
was carved in 1254 by Tankei mae. Open May–Aug:
at the age of 82. Upon its head 5:30am–6pm daily; Sep, Oct, Mythical beast detail from Nishi
are ten other heads, including Mar, Apr: 5:30am–5:30pm daily; Hongan-ji’s gate
a miniature image of the Nov–Feb 5:30am–5pm.
∑ hongwanji.or.jp/english.
Amida Buddha. Stretching Higashi Hongan-ji: Tel (075) 371-9181. never shown.) Hiunkaku can
out on either side are 1,000 £ JR Kyoto Stn, then 5-min walk. only be visited if a booking is
smaller images. Kannon Open Mar–Oct: 5:50am–5:30pm made at least a day in advance,
was believed to have 33 daily; Nov–Feb: 6:20am–4:30pm although this is not required
manifestations, so the faithful daily. ∑ higashihonganji.or.jp on days when special events
would have invoked the mercy are held. A large donation is
of 33,033 Kannons. With their massive flower-decked required if attending a tea
On the Sunday before altars, ornately carved transoms, ceremony or a Noh event
Coming-of-Age Day (see p51) and shimmering expanses of at Hiunkaku.
the temple hosts an archery tatami matting, the cavernous Higashi Hongan-ji’s immense
contest for young women, Hongan-ji temples testify to and lavish Goei-do gate is one
who shoot arrows from one the power and popularity of the first tradi tional structures
end of the veranda of the of the Jodo-Shinshu sect. visitors to Kyoto see as they head
main hall to the other. The two temples are almost north out of Kyoto Station. The
identical in their layout, reflect- temple’s Goei-do (founder’s hall)
4 Kyoto National ing their common origin. Each dates from 1895 and claims to
Museum has a huge Goei-do (founder’s be the largest wood en structure
hall) and a smaller Amida-do
in the world. The striking white
Kyoto National Museum plaster and gray-tile walls on the
housing an Amida Buddha
image. Nishi Hongan-ji is rich in temple’s northern side belong to
Tel (075) 525-2473. @ 206 & 208 to National Treasures, but not all are the temple kura, or storehouse.
Hakubutsukan Sanjusangendo-mae.
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm always on view. They include
Fri). & ∑ kyohaku.go.jp/eng/ the Shoin (study hall), with its Environs
indextop.html lavishly decorated Shiroshoin Two blocks east of Higashi
and Kuroshoin compartments; Hongan-ji proper is Shosei-en
The city’s National Museum Kokei no Niwa, a garden (nicknamed Kikoku-tei), a
was established in 1895 and featuring cycad palms; two Noh spacious garden owned by
is noted for its pictorial works, stages, one of which is thought the temple. Poet-scholar
including Bud dhist and ink to be the oldest Noh stage in Ishikawa Jozan (1583–1672)
paintings, textiles and Heian- existence; Hiunkaku, a large tea and landscape architect Kobori
period sculptures. Special pavilion; and the Karamon, or Enshu (1579–1647) are said
exhibitions are held in the Chinese gate. The Shoin is open to have had a hand in its
Meiji-era brick building to twice a month, but dates vary. design. Herons, ducks, and
the right of the entrance. (The Kuroshoin, however, is other wildlife find refuge here.

Detail of the main gate fronting the street at Nishi Hongan-ji

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